I have a 2000 1.3 mpi felicia run great when warm, but on cold mornings when initially starting the car the revs are low about 900rpm and it sounds like it is overf fueling, like the old cars with a choke, when too much is applied.

Check valve clearances OK, fitted new temp sensor. Is there a cold start sensor

like on some cars?

Always starts first time but not smooth

Any more ideas

Thanks

There's no cold start sensor as such, though the MAP sensor (Inlet air temp) may need cleaning.

It's situated behind the throttle body on the inlet manifold.

Remove it carefully, wipe the outside clean if it's dirty (I've never seen one), put it in a sealed plastic bag and squirt some electrical contact cleaner in the bag. Swirl it round a bit and then allow it to dry out completely.

Refit, making sure the gasket is in good order.

Thanks for that idea tried cleaning the MAP sensor but made no difference.

Do anybody have any measurement of output voltage against temperature for this sensor so I can check it before changing it. or any more suggestions.

One thing I don't know is what rpm should the engine go to when cold? mine has always been low say below900rpm.

Thanks

My wife's 1.3 MPI felicia has exactly the same problem. We've had the car for six months, and it always runs roughly initially on start up, but once we've reversed out of the drive (sounds posh.....but it isn't!), it runs perfectly from then on, accelerating cleanly. I've decided not to do anything about it, unless the problem gets worse.

My wife's 1.3 MPI felicia has exactly the same problem. We've had the car for six months, and it always runs roughly initially on start up, but once we've reversed out of the drive (sounds posh.....but it isn't!), it runs perfectly from then on, accelerating cleanly. I've decided not to do anything about it, unless the problem gets worse.

900rpm sounds fine to me cold

The idle when warm should be 800rpm

I don't think there is anything to worry about but i would maybe check the basics such as spark plugs, throttle body to see if it is clean. If you have a lumpy uneven tickover that is chugging (not to be confused with timing chain rattle) i would bet that it needs the inlet manifold replaced as i found out last week.

Had another look under the bonnet. The MAP sensor measures the manifold/inlet pressure and inlet temperature. Remioved again and added additional gasket. Also check knock sensor on back of engine cleaned and checked connections.

Also checked valve clearence and set them loose about 2 thou more than standard.

The car now runs at higher rpm when cold about 1000rpm and also now not over fuelling.

Next I will be getting VAG diagnostic software and lead to see if can get more info on the simo 2P ECU/injection system ftted. Anybody used this software?

Car now slightly more rattling from top end but runs fine, I see how it goes for now.

Hi all,

I have the same problem with a 1.6 GLXi 1999 when cold, have changed the plugs but difficult to start when cold although it does start and runs rough then after holding the revs for a while it is possible to pull off.

I have checked the car with diagnostics and it reads MAP Sensor out of range G71, I suspect the temperature sender but anyone know what a G71 is .

Also it cuts out completely when going up hills, its not my car and seems to be when it is quarter full of fuel so maybe faulty fuel guage and fuel starvation ?, picks up fine but dangerous when cars close behind.

Does the 1.6 have a seperate temp sender ?.

Thanks

Mine runs rough for a few secs from cold, but clears when I give it a few revs before I drive away.

It's done this since the cold weather took hold, not worried about as it's gets no worse but I'm going to check it over sometime.

Mick

mine does this to :(

Hi all,

I have the same problem with a 1.6 GLXi 1999 when cold, have changed the plugs but difficult to start when cold although it does start and runs rough then after holding the revs for a while it is possible to pull off.

I have checked the car with diagnostics and it reads MAP Sensor out of range G71, I suspect the temperature sender but anyone know what a G71 is .

Also it cuts out completely when going up hills, its not my car and seems to be when it is quarter full of fuel so maybe faulty fuel guage and fuel starvation ?, picks up fine but dangerous when cars close behind.

Does the 1.6 have a seperate temp sender ?.

Thanks

Ive had a similar problem with my fun, sorted by changing the temp sender and coil pack

it should start on 1200-1500rpm, then settle down to 1200-1000rpm and then go to 750-800rpm (though its till choking a bit until totally warm at 85degree)

valve clearance IS the first thing to check, set them stone cold to 0.25mm(10 thou)intake and 0.20mm(8 thou) exhaust. valve problem is consistent with rough idle / low revs when cold, loss of power(these car fell strong for a 1.3) and degraded fuel economy

second thing to check is throttle body. Clean with carburetor cleaner and DW-40 moving parts afterwards and replace Air filter and make sure to set idle screw for 750-800rpm idle when warm. dirty intake is consistent with rough idle / low revs when cold and lower fuel economy all arround (car should give you 35 to 45mpg (55 to 60'ish km/g)

third thing to check is fuel pump and fuel filter, replace fuel filter and check lines for clipping and check fuel pump. fuel pump problem are consistent with low rough idle when cold and unresponsive acceleration when warm (you feel like the car is over fueling or hear light knocking on engine?)

Mine runs rough for a few secs from cold, but clears when I give it a few revs before I drive away.

It's done this since the cold weather took hold, not worried about as it's gets no worse but I'm going to check it over sometime.

Mick

don't over rev your engine when cold to harm it up, leave the accelerator press until you have 1500-2000 rpm for a couple of min or just drive away slowly

over reving the engine when cold is the first thing that damages the piston walls (piston are not properly sealed and vibrate) oil is not hot enough to lubricate all of the moving parts in your engine so they suffer too and oil degrades faster (since is getting mixed with combustion mix without being warm enough to evaporate them)

Hi all,

Does the 1.6 have a seperate temp sender ?.

Thanks

i saw today a 1.6 with two temp senders one for ECU one just like mine(yellow ribbon temp sender with 4 contacts) for temp gauge