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Part number for central dash storage box/vents

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Does anyone happen to know the part number for the central pop-up storage box / hazzard switch & vent assembly?

I'm interested in modifing one to house a SatNav bracket and associated cables - open the lid and up pops the bracket to slot the SatNav into. Remove the SatNav, close the lid and there's no bracket/cables on show.

1z0 820 951

Edit: There are different versions of this ie. colour etc. so either pop it out and check it yourself or give your dealer a chassis number to verify it :thumbup:

out of curiousity how do you actually remove it? does anyone have a guide?

It helps to have flat plastic removal tools as you have to 'prise' it out, it'll take a little bit of brute force but it's easy enough.

It's held in by two clips at the back and two at the front iirc.

  • Author

The correct part number for a black (onyx) one is 1Z0 820 951 B3X1 with a retail price of £53.25...

The correct part number for a black (onyx) one is 1Z0 820 951 B3X1 with a retail price of £53.25...

How Much EEEK - Scrap Yard time me thinks

If you're thinking of the one I'm thinking of, save your phone bill.

I'd be interested to know how you get on with this. I've found that I can stand my Garmin Nuvi in that storage box, and it stays put without the bracket. If I feed a power cable up through a hole in the bottom, the cable would probably stop it flying across the dash if I step on the brakes! At the moment I just have the cable trailing up from the cigarette lighter socket. Visibility is reasonably good. The fact that the antenna is obscured by the lid of the box doesn't seem to affect the signal much, so it seems like a good solution.

I'd also be interested to see how you get on with this.

I've been looking at installing a second 12v socket in the cubby to the right of the steering wheel to power the sat nav (Navman F20) when it's on the o/s bottom corner of the screen.

Having it in the central box would be a great alternative.

I went the cheapo route, but with a similar idea.

I removed the rubber liner to the central storage box, and stuck in the mounting disc (supplied by Garmin for my Nuvi) into the lower plastic of the box. Then used the windscreen mount onto the disc for a secure mount whilst driving. Doesn't quite fold away into the hole though!

But when removed you leave no tell tale on the window, the mounting disc isn't visible. And when in use its easier to reach and use (when stationary of course!)

Cheers, TD

  • 6 months later...

I've been using a Snooper in that pop-up box for a few months with a trailing lead to the cigar socket - works ok but a faff to stow the lead etc. So I'm thinking of taking power into the pop-up box but would be glad of any hints where best to get power from.

Cheers

I have my taxi meter in that storage box and close the lid down when i don,t use it.

I've installed my Snooper Strabo GPS in the top dash box and the wiring to switched 12v was really easy to do. I eased out the top vent / dash box by pushing up slightly on the vents and levering it out on the underneath side with the car key! :) The green cable ties show where I strapped the power cable.

DSCN2566.JPG

I drilled a 4mm hole through the side wall of the box, taking care not to get snagged in the box closer mechanism. The power cable was threaded thro' the hole and it was really easy to stick my hand in deep down towards the steering column. At the steering column end I could then drag the lead through to the knee level storage box. If you open the knee box, there's a gap at the top and I could pull the cable through further and feed it into the fuse box area. It took me less than a couple of minutes and all without getting my Torx set out! :thumbup:

At the fuse box, I've used a cigarette lighter USB charger (with internal fuse) to convert from 12v to 5v and so I jointed the cable from the GPS with an an old USB cable - red is +5v, black is ground (0v). At the other end of the charger, which would normally plug into the cigarette lighter, I drilled a hole through the tip and soldered a wire on it, ready to take to the fuse board. As the sprung sides are not always both connected, I soldered a wire onto both and strapped it onto the car chassis. The soldered bits were then taped up with a cable tie around to stop the tape unravelling with time. The whole arrangement tucks neatly in a crevice - you can see the cable-tie holding it in place below.

DSCN2574.JPG

The +12v connection to the fuse box was done by chopping the leg off a spade fuse and soldering a flying lead between the top end of the fuse and the tip of the USB charger. It just pushes in to the fuse board like any normal fuse.

DSCN2572.JPG

As for which fuse position to use. I used #31 but any spare slot on that rail appears to be switched by the ignition.

DSCN2573.JPG

No liability accepted for following my write-up but it worked for me!

Edited by m0ezp

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