:( I have looked in all 4 arias and all are connected! i don't have any wet carpet or boot puddles AHHHHH!

the front work fine just not the back. can you get blockages?

any advise as i hate being beaten but i'm at the point of throwing in the towel.

so had a look again and pulled it apart at the rear passenger door to check there was water coming through (and there was) put it back to geather again and what you know it starts working again

Just want to say a big thanks to all you guys for posting technical details on where the washer pipe fails mine failed at point 2, check out the photos posted if your struggling to find the pipe like i was there a massive help. Also check all points before taking boot panel off its a sod to get off i broke 2 clips and getting it back ons even worse the clips need 2 line up or your gonna break or bend em. Getting top part of the panel nearest the washer motor on i found the hardest and resorted to climbing in car with boot lid closed and pushing on from the inside. Not ever taking that panel off again and will def consult briskoda forums before trying to fix it myself! Cheers Guys

The pipe will have disconnected in one of four places. You don't need a ramp for any of them. In approximate order of likelihood:

1) Behind the trim running along the NSR seat back. Fold the seat forward and pull the plastic trim away (two round clips will come off). Find the black hose running up from the floor into the boot, and locate the connector. Push the two sections together, and fasten with a cable-tie if required (at your own risk: the connector is a 'weak link' to protect against the hose itself bursting)

2) Behind the brake lines running to and from the ABS unit, on the engine bay bulkhead, approximately behind the top/right corner of the engine. There will be a stub hose coming out of the bulkhead, and the other section of hose will most likely be hanging loose. You will find it easier to unscrew the top of the air filter box and move it out of the way. Then reach in and connect the two sections of pipe. It's possible with one hand, although if you have small hands and arms, it will be easier to use both. Use a cable-tie if you wish, but the above warning applies. Make sure the engine's cold if you have to do this, as you'll be fiddling about next to some potentially very hot parts!

3) At the connector to the rear washer pump. The trim inside the boot lid pulls away (you may need to prop it open), and you can then access the pump. Re-fitting the trim can be tricky if you bend the clips, and don't forget the feed the pull handle through before you start putting it all back together! Again, you can cable-tie if you want, but it's at your own risk.

4) At the connector to the reservoir pump. Remove the Torx scews around the front edge of the NSF wheel arch, pull it back and use a bit of wood or plastic to wedge it open. You can then access the pump, reconnect the hose (and cable-tie at your own risk!)

As a bit of an aside, I see that most of the posters in this thread are pretty new, in which case could I please suggest you use the 'Search' button in future for queries like this - it's there for a reason...! In fact, one of our members has even posted a link to the official Skoda Technical Bulletin on the issue!

Anyway, lecture over - hope you all get your washers fixed!

4) At the connector to the reservoir pump. Remove the Torx scews around the front edge of the NSF wheel arch, pull it back and use a bit of wood or plastic to wedge it open. You can then access the pump, reconnect the hose (and cable-tie at your own risk!)

This was where mine failed. Though I would add a couple of pictures to the already fantastic thread.

Pulling the washer lever with a bit of string, I could see it leaking onto floor just at NSF wheel arch.

I took the wheel off, but you could probably do it by just turning the wheel onto full lock. Easier to prop the wheel arch cover open with something e.g. (pair of pliers is what I used).

This is what I found looking right at me

(Not letting me embed two pictures for some reason!)

http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy324/evan15281/IMG-20110306-00090.jpg

I simply clicked the loose connector together, giving me this:

Hey presto, a wet rear windscreen!

Many Thanks to all contributors.

Thanks for the info in this thread I just repaired mine - the pipe wasn't connected properly behind the trim running along the NSR seat as in 1)

Just wanted to post this for others as the pipe had not disconnected completely, I could see it had been a bit wet in that area so pushed the pipe together more and it fixed it! It was not that obvious that it was slightly apart so it's worth checking again.

Another thanks you to the authors of the info in this thread. By reading this I was able to diagnose & locate problem - I had to remove road wheel and several 'Torx' screws to get my bananna sized fingers into the space; but at least it is now working !

Zero points out of ten for the guy who designed this bit of an otherwise 'sensible' motor car!

So, thought I'd add to this as I've just sorted my rear washer problem.

There was a disconnection under the bonnet, but also a problem in the boot! Took a few pics just in case it helps anyone out in the future!

Firstly, located via the puddle just inside and to the rear of the passenger side front wheel, reconnecting the hose under the bonnet!

The hose above will be hanging free, with the small hose below poking a couple of inches out of the body, it can be a little fiddly, but I have skinny wrists so could get in there just fine. Top tip though: Wait for the engine to cool down before doing this!

After this I gave it a spray and the washer wasn't spraying nearly as much as it should have. Saw some damp coming out of the bottom of the boot, so had a look in there! Removing the boot door card is relatively easy:

Starting at the bottom (or the top with the boot up) tug pretty hard on the boot card, it'll un-clip (audibly, see clips above). Work your way round, so the ones nearest the window are the last to pop.

Once it's removed, you'll see something like this:

The yellow circle marks the joint where the hose meets the connection for the motor mechanism. I assume this is where it most often breaks, this wasn't the case for me.

After some more squirting (ooh er) I realised that the water was actually jetting out of the the little gaps in the plastic, through which you can see the metal (close up below):

So, after undoing all the screws around the outside, I was left with this:

I expect the end of the tube bit isn't suppose to be mis-shapen and bent like that, and there was no rubber washer anywhere, which I would've expected. I'm taking it into the stealer tomorrow to get the rear wiper replaced, so I'll get that sorted too! Hope it doesn't cost a fortune...

Edited 15 April, 201214 yr by holmes321

Thanks for the locations, mine was at the bulkhead. It was rather fiddly, but after opening the airbox and removing the engine cover I managed to get at with two hands and fit the tubes together again. It came off after the first trial run, but seems to work fine now

Thanks for the locations, mine was at the bulkhead. It was rather fiddly, but after opening the airbox and removing the engine cover I managed to get at with two hands and fit the tubes together again. It came off after the first trial run, but seems to work fine now

Mine ( on 1.4tdi) was done on garage front ,by Skoda tech,FOC.

BUT- READ the article on here about washer leaks. mine was ( IMHO) caused by NOT adding 50% screen wash to the bottle. Something that Skoda do draw attention to. And since I've never run without at least 50% screenwash, I believe to be true . ( And I find that a dash of very cheap washing up liquid helps remove road film) ( Use the cheapo stuff as it don't foam as much as the dear stuff,but gets rid of road grease /film)

Just to add to my previous post, the Dealers wanted 110 quid or so for a full replacement unit, so me and the old man decided to 'Heath Robinson' it (his words, not mine).

Basically we wrapped the gold/bronze tube in some electrical insulation tape (right around the bottom) until it was just able to be squeezed back into place. This would act as a 'washer' of sorts, and the electrical tape should expand slightly when wet, improving the seal.

After the first few squirts, there was a few drips of fluid coming out the back. Being a bit of a perfectionist, I took it out and wrapped another few layers of tape around the metal tube above the previous one. Again cutting it so it would just about squeeze in. This sorted it completely (It needed a really good shove to get on, so god forbid if I ever need to get it off again!), but my rear washer is good as new!

Hi people i have an issue my skoda fabia estate 51 plate has a broken rear washer jet

The jet is in the top brake light and has snapped off so the washer fluid just sprays the road lol how do i replace it and how much will it be?

I have looked online but got nothing...

Edited 30 May, 201214 yr by fabia 51

Thanks to all you guys for the info. I will endeavor to sort the problem. With the reply on a strong smell of washer fluid in the car,

I reckon it could be at the front end.

Thanks again,

Brian

Ok so I'm about to sort mine out should I just engage the rear washer and look for puddles to guide me to the correct leak area or should I go through and systematically check the connectors?

Wet rear passenger footwell = leak at join behind trim from parcel shelf support down to the floor.

Wet ground near engine = leak at in the engine bay.

Wet boot seal = leak inside tailgate.

Water dripping out from in front of passenger side front wheel - Hose un clipped at the pump

I have had this fixed in the past (the engine bay one) and its not working again, my mechanic did say he has had a few Fabia's that have had ECU issues with the water running into the wiring loom and costing a lot of cash to fix.... i have just given up on mine now and simply do not use the rear wash function....... just a very very poor design.

Just to let you know guys, I fixed mine today in the fog... The offending pipe had come loose just behind and below the air filter on my 1.4. Just before it goes into the bulkhead. A simple matter of clicking it back into place... though a little difficult with a strut brace fitted!

Thanks folks!

Mine does same, the clicking on of the pipe is not that strong so comes off from time to time. bit fiddly but easy enough to stick back on.

Thanks to ap0gee1978 for the guide.

I started looking at the NSR seat trim, but quickly gave up as I couldn't work out how to remove the trim without damaging it, so I moved on.

Luckily, it was option 2, in the engine bay.

I can confirm that it's very fiddly. But with the air filter housing loosened and propped up by my head, one arm coming in from the top and one from the side, and a lot of swearing, it can be done. A head torch definitely helped, as my big head blocks out a lot of light.

Just like to echo what has been said about this guide being so helpful.

I initially found the engine bay pipes had popped loose so I reconnected them.

Then I had it leaking from the wiper unit itself in the boot (pipe was still connected but fluid was back feeding through hole sin the plastic fitting).

I stripped down the unit and found the copper/brass tube seemed to be in a healthy condition (no corrosion at all). I suspected it was the washer jet itself blocked and after trying to clean out myself with no luck went to my local scrappy and got 3 different ones to try. All of these gave the same result. I then tried then the unit without the jet fitted at all. The water then sprayed out of the outlet end (albeit not in the manner it should with a jet) and there seemed to be no back feed back through the holes in the plastic fitting. On further inspection it was found that there was a slight trickle of water still coming back through the holes on the plastic fitting.

What this is saying to me is that the water path has some form of internal leak (this leak is more evident when the washer jet is fitted as it creates a bigger back pressure in the unit). My main question is does anyone think the repair kit that has been mentioned will cure this or will I have to bite the bullet and buy a full new rear washer unit?

Any help much appreciated.

BUMP

does anyone have any ideas on the query I posted above?

many thanks

The pipe will have disconnected in one of four places. You don't need a ramp for any of them. In approximate order of likelihood:

I'll be reading the rest tomorrow next to the car lol. Cheers.

I must have had the world's most unfortunate rear washer!

1. Found it disconnected at the bulkhead. Plugged it in, tried the rear washer and nothing.
2. Then I found pools of water in the boot by the lock clasp. Took the boot lid trim off and plugged the rear washer pump back in. Tried the washer; it was quite limp but functional.
3. Then I saw pools of water on the road under the NSR of the car. Folded the seat down, removed the trim and found the pipe leading into the boot disconnected.
4. The washer is now firing jets.

Now I'm waiting for it to disconnect from the pump and I've covered all four!

I've just been through the washer pipe saga as well. I found mine disconnected at the pump and bulkhead. Snapped them back together and the rear washer worked but not very powerfully. So I decided to remove the rear N/S wheelarch trim (by the way, you can also inspect this connector by pulling away the side trim carpet in the boot) and found it disconnected there along with a wet rear footwell carpet.

I can sort of understand the logic behind having connections that pop off if the fluid freezes, but in 30 years of driving I have never had a washer pipe burst from being frozen. I'm sure a lot of cars simply had one single piece of washer pipe going from front to back and without any problems.

Silly piece of design on an otherwise good car if you ask me. I've put cable ties on mine in the hope that it will hold them together better. With the correct amount of washer concentrate there should never be a freezing issue in the first place.

I have very little doubt that the 'modular' design has nothing to do with freezing, and everything to do with assembly-line speed.

"Plug and play" rather than threading pipes the length of the car.

The plug-and-play assembly line thing makes sense...never thought of that. What I don't understand is how it could have come away in three different places? Surely if there was a pressure build up because of frozen washer fluid, only one would pop off and relieve the pressure?

 

I'm dreading having to take off the bootlid trim again...I didn't put it on perfectly as I lost two of the clips...although it seems to be on firm enough not to fall on my head when I open the boot. A bit scared of cable-tying in case I'm unlucky enough to have them burst on me in the winter and end up costing more.