Hi guys,

Going to change my plugs (could be 30k+ old) for some nice new NGK PFR6Qs tomorrow with a mate.

Apart from the spark plugs, what will I need? A flat head screwdriver to pry the coil packs out (I've never removed them)... are they easy to pry out :confused:

Do I need some anti-seize grease or crusher washers, or can I get away without.

Also what is the gap size / required torque as he has a torque wrench

I did a quick search but couldn't find much on it :P

Spark plug gap should be 0.7mm and tightening torque 20-30Nm. The coil packs pull straight out once the harness connector is unclipped. Do not rotate them when doing so or the locating lug will shear off. I assume that you have a suitable spark plug spanner to get at the them?

See the thread below for pictures:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/technical-guides/pictorial-guide-changing-coil-pack-1-8t-engine/76367/

Thanks mate, I've got one of these sets;

Halfords Professional 150 piece Socket/Ratchet Set from Halfords Price £199.99

Got it for £100 though

Which has two size deep sockets for spark plugs, guessing these would do it...

Where did you get the 0.7mm and 20-30Nm from if you don't mind me asking?

Reading that link now! What does the "X" state in the 3rd picture down mate, does it matter where I pry it up from? (Obviously without twisting).

Where did you get the 0.7mm and 20-30Nm from if you don't mind me asking?

Reading that link now! What does the "X" state in the 3rd picture down mate, does it matter where I pry it up from? (Obviously without twisting).

AutoData CD2. Haynes quotes 30Nm and 0.7mm also.

The X shows the slot that the lug on the coilpack fits into. So if necessary lever gently up at 90 degrees to that, ie under the head of the coil pack opposite the connector.

That's a very nice tool set. I bought one for my younger son on his 21st birthday.

Thanks mate, appreciate that. Should be able to change them on my lunch tomorrow. Hope it won't take that long to do. Going to be interested to see how they look!!!

Very impressed with the set so far, managed to do everything I've needed to do on the 205 gti with it, which has been a fair amount.

Just did the same job yesterday.

Lunch break is just fine for that.

I used this pictorial guide and found it very useful

MK4 1.8T spark plug change | DIYNexus.com

I tightened them to 27nm as that was the minimum of my wrench. It seams like screw them gently in by free hand without the wrench and when it stops then ad around to 60 degrees further rotation with the wrench.

I applied a very tiny amount of copper grease. got that from motorists discount for around 2 pounds.

I also cleaned the maf and the panel filter at the same time.

Oh yes..., the plugs i used were denso iridium ik 20. The ride seams to be a bit smoother. It's maybe due to filter and maf clean or just the psychological effect.

Good luck with your work.

Igor

Nice! Thanks for the extra link, always nice to have some visual aids. Looks pretty simple to do.

I'm going to go for the PFR6Qs, really going to be interesting to see how they look. Don't think they've been changed since 40k (67k) and about 7k have been remapped @ 17psi peak!

How long were yours in for?

Just did the same job yesterday.

Lunch break is just fine for that.

I used this pictorial guide and found it very useful

MK4 1.8T spark plug change | DIYNexus.com

I tightened them to 27nm as that was the minimum of my wrench. It seams like screw them gently in by free hand without the wrench and when it stops then ad around to 60 degrees further rotation with the wrench.

I applied a very tiny amount of copper grease. got that from motorists discount for around 2 pounds.

I also cleaned the maf and the panel filter at the same time.

Oh yes..., the plugs i used were denso iridium ik 20. The ride seams to be a bit smoother. It's maybe due to filter and maf clean or just the psychological effect.

Good luck with your work.

Igor

The Denso Ik20's a nice plug i would reccomend them too, but make sure they are gapped properly first as they come at 1.1mm gap.

Plugs are easy to fit Ethos, you have to be a real numpty to strip the threads.

Are the Denso Ik20s a cooler plug that the NGKs?

I wonder if any local places would have them in...

Just google Denso iridium and make your own choice.

The Denso iridium vk20y is the plug of choice in the Denso range, it is expensive but it lasts along time. Both ik20 and vk20y have the 0.4mm electrode.

hi guys,

i got my densos of some ebay store from the states. at that time i bought 12 of them 4 for myself and 8 for the relative and i payed them all inc postage around 6 quid each. that was far cheaper than anywhere in england at that time.

i think that they are not colder that the original ones but i am not to sure. the tuner who remaped my octy John at DNA tuning recommended them. My map gives 1.25 bar peak and around 1 bar throughout the range.

as far as i am aware we can not regap iridium plugs as we can do with copper ones. the electrode is very thin and can easly be broken.

i think that some japanese parts stores should keep them in stock localy.

igor

Yes you can regap as stated here Installation Guide: DENSO Iridium but be careful.

I also got mine from the states at around £22 inc postage iirc.

Yes you can regap as stated here Installation Guide: DENSO Iridium but be careful.

I also got mine from the states at around £22 inc postage iirc.

Thanks very much for that info. I really thought that we can't regap them.

Did you try that procedure? Is it very sensitive job?

Cheers

Igor

well i blew 2 coil packs within 100 yards so i thought i had better gap them. Yes its quite easy just try to avoid touching the tip when bending. mine are at 0.7mm

Hi guys, well me and my mate did these today. Took about 30 minutes and we weren't rushing.

Gapped to around 0.710mm, everything went smoothly.

Drove home and sure it felt a little smooth, maybe even a little faster? Maybe all in my head. Anyway, no misfires.... apart from hooning it up this big hill. Changed into forth and put my foot down and I think it was a misfire. Slight pause then off again which through the engine management light up (same light as ASR off).

Haven't vag-com'd it yet though :(

They are gapped right, and it didn't do it on my second attempt although I wasn't going as fast. Anything to worry about? I must of floored it 3-4 times on the way home without it.

Here are the old plugs;

P.S When I say gapped, I used the standard gap which seemed to be around 0.710mm

Anyway, no misfires.... apart from hooning it up this big hill. Changed into forth and put my foot down and I think it was a misfire. Slight pause then off again which through the engine management light up (same light as ASR off).

Haven't vag-com'd it yet though :(

They are gapped right, and it didn't do it on my second attempt although I wasn't going as fast. Anything to worry about? I must of floored it 3-4 times on the way home without it.

Here are the old plugs;

The asr light comes on when its working which would cause the slight pause that you describe. Must be a healthy engine to cause it to come on in 4th I would have thought

Well I've managed to get my laptop and I got these logged (cleared them and started the engine and they came back up);

Control Module Part Number: 1C0 907 379 D

Component and/or Version: ASR FRONT MK60 0103

Software Coding: 0021505

Work Shop Code: WSC 31480

1 Fault Found:

01314 - Engine Control Module

013 - Check DTC Memory

Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 HN

Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT 0001

Software Coding: 11500

Work Shop Code: WSC 13873

Additional Info: TMBER**************** SKZ************

1 Fault Found:

16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low

P0102 - 35-00 - -

:(

Anybody have any idea how changing plugs can cause two faults?

I unplugged and replugged the maf in, but it didn't help.

Pi**ed off, this is my daily drive! Need to use it the rest of this week @ 60 miles a day.

The asr light comes on when its working which would cause the slight pause that you describe. Must be a healthy engine to cause it to come on in 4th I would have thought

Sorry, the ASR is staying on.

Also the engine management light is on now.

Well, I think it's a coil pack- although they seem like weird errors for a coil pack?

Log1, just as normal- missfire on cyl 2

http://www.aoyt95.dsl.pipex.com/1.CSV

Log2, swapped over 1st + 2nd coilpack, missfire on cyl 1

http://www.aoyt95.dsl.pipex.com/2.CSV

Got to be the coilpack at fault? I suppose I could wait and see if coilpack two blows.

Anyway, cheapest place to get a coil pack- do they recommend replacing all four? Or is 1 fine.

Should I not drive it until I get it replaced?

My money is on a knacked maf.

Here's is a log from my maf, reading didn't seem to change even when I floored it;

http://www.aoyt95.dsl.pipex.com/maf.CSV

Is this normal?

Apparently fuses can go, not sure which one though.

Looks totally shafted to me,does it run badly and is running better with maf unplugged?

I haven't managed to go for a drive with it unplugged yet, it feels like it's a bit faster as it is now to be honest?

Looks shafted then eh? *finds out which fuse it is*

£60 on GSF :(

£83 delivered :eek:

you should have readings of around 140 g/s at full throttle at 4800rpm yours is 0.25 g/s :eek:

Try fleabay