ive just got myself a nice octavia but the only trouble is that it only come with one key i phoned a dealer and they said "a new flip out key would cost around £160" i said "ok" and swiftley put the phone down.

i have seen second hand keys on ebay and i know they wouldnt work with my car straight away without tinkering with them. i managed to get one for £13 (how cheap) and get a blade cut to my car for £7. the central locking was my next task but read in the owners manual how to do it and got it working (quite simple). the last of my tasks is the immoboliser not a clue can any one help

i know you kneed VAG and a computor which a friend has but what is the procedure for coding the immoboliser to a new key using VAG (step by step please)

i have the security tag and the car is on an 02 plate do you kneed any more info

thanks guys

i have just read that there a three types of immoboliser how do i find out which one i have

You've got immobiliser 3. As you have the login code all you need to do is find someone near you with full vagcom and follow the easy instructions on the ross-tech website.

hi eddy just to confirm which one of the options is the one i kneed to follow and will it work on second hand keys

Immobilizer III

• Key Matching (through Instrument Cluster)
  
• Key Matching (through separate Control Module)
  
• Key Matching (through Kessy)
  
• Engine Control Unit (ECU) Swapping
  
• Injection Pump Swapping (V6 TDI only)
  
• Immobilizer Control Module Swapping (integrated in Instrument Cluster)
  
• Immobilizer III Immobilizer Swapping (Separate)|Immobilizer Control Module Swapping (integrated in separate Control Module)
  
• Immobilizer Control Module Swapping (integrated in Kessy)

thanks:thumbup:

That first bit sounds familiar to when I coded my key to my car!

QUOTE

[select]

[17 - Instruments]

[Meas. Blocks - 08]

Select Block 022.

[Go!]

The value in field 3 must be 1. If value is not 1, the key is not capable of being adapted to Immobilizer.

You can check each key in this manner.

Select Block 024.

[Go!]

Make sure the shown lock times in field 1, 2 and 3 are 0 (each field represents a time in minutes).

If the lock times are NOT 0:

Do NOT switch off the ignition!

Allow the car to sit for AT LEAST the number of minutes that were indicated by the fields 1-3.

[Done, Go Back]

[Login - 11]

There are 2 possibilities how to enter a PIN, choose the one that applies for you.

4-digit PIN

Enter zero followed by the 4-digit PIN. For example, if your PIN is 1234, enter 01234.

7-digit PIN

[use 7-digit PIN/SKC]

Enter the 7-digit PIN, Date on which the PIN was generated by the dealer, along with the Workshop Code (WSC) and the Importer number of the dealer that generated the code.

[OK]

VAG-COM will validate the data you have entered and return you to the Login screen, where the Login Code will show as "XXXXX".

[Do it!]

[Adaptation - 10]

Enter 21 in "Channel Number".

[Read]

The "Stored Value" is the number of keys currently matched.

Enter a "new value" corresponding to the total number of keys to be matched, including any existing keys.

The old keys are automatically beeing cleared.

[save]

[Done, Go Back]

[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

Repeat the following steps until all keys have been matched:

Switch ignition off and remove key.

Insert next key to ignition and switch ignition on again.

The warning light for the Immobilizer will light up for ~2 seconds, then go out Switch ignition off and remove key.

Note: The above steps after saving the adaptation, should not exceed 60 seconds!

Ill be coding the key:thumbup:

sound mate is that all you kneed?

Think I got it now, Got this from the Ross Tech site, more easily read.

1.

[select]

[17 - Instruments]

Write down the 14 digit Immobilizer ID number from the "Extra" field

(In some newer vehicles, if the Immobilizer ID is not in the "Extra" field, check in Measuring Block 081)

2.

Take that ID number to your dealer and request your seven-digit SKC, along with the workshop code and importer number (all this information can be found in the upper-right corner of the Administration screen of the dealer's VAS 5051). Additional information about how to find the WSC and Importer Number can be found here.

3.

Measure the car's battery voltage, it must be 12.5 V or higher.

4.

[select]

[17 - Instruments]

[Login - 11] (In some newer vehicles use [16-Security Access] )

[use 7-digit PIN/SKC]

Enter the 7-digit PIN, Date on which the PIN was generated by the dealer, along with the Workshop Code (WSC) and the Importer number of the dealer that generated the code.

[OK]

5.

VAG-COM will validate the data you have entered and return you to the Login screen, where the Login Code will show as "XXXXX".

[Do It!]

6.

[Adaptation - 10]

Enter 21 in "Channel Number"

[Read]

The "Stored Value" is the number of keys currently matched.

Enter "new value" of 0

[save]

This clears out the old key-matchings.

Enter a "new value" corresponding to the total number of keys to be matched, including any existing keys

[save]

7.

[Done, Go Back]

[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

Switch ignition off and remove key

8.

Insert next key to ignition and switch ignition on again

The warning light for the Immobilizer will light up for ~2 seconds, then go out

Switch ignition off and remove key

9.

Repeat step 8 with each key until all keys have been matched.

ill pm you

You'll be using a 5 digit login code (0XXXX) not a 7 digit one and you don't need a date either as the 5 digit one lasts for ever.

does any one know if a second hand key is ok to code this way

does any one know if a second hand key is ok to code this way

I coded my own via Vag-Tacho , the problem i had was trying to code the key bought from ebay to my immo.

The immo was having none of the coding process and had read about people getting new transponders so i bought a new transponder at about £4 plus shipping from Hickleys :: Keys and Remotes - Transponders (transponder i got for mk1 vrs 2002 was AKTP2)

Popped that transponder into the key and tried coding again and it worked straight away.

Not sure if it had anything to do with the rolling code process or something but no matter what the original transponder just wouldn't code.

Even after buying transponder i had saved 80 quid over the £160 above ,this included buying Vag-Tacho

I coded my own via Vag-Tacho , the problem i had was trying to code the key bought from ebay to my immo.

The immo was having none of the coding process and had read about people getting new transponders so i bought a new transponder at about £4 plus shipping from Hickleys :: Keys and Remotes - Transponders (transponder i got for mk1 vrs 2002 was AKTP2)

Popped that transponder into the key and tried coding again and it worked straight away.

Not sure if it had anything to do with the rolling code process or something but no matter what the original transponder just wouldn't code.

Even after buying transponder i had saved 80 quid over the £160 above ,this included buying Vag-Tacho

fair play saves the money going to the stealers carnt believe they wanted £160 for a key

if all goes to plan then my key would of cost me £21 saving £139

fair play saves the money going to the stealers carnt believe they wanted £160 for a key

if all goes to plan then my key would of cost me £21 saving £139

Yea i spent too much on the key itself only realising afterwards i could have got quite a bit cheaper still...but even then i'm still happy knowing someone else other than a dealer made some cash from me

Even if i supplied the key they wanted £70 just to code it ...the cheeky beggers

also be aware that you need to program ALL your keys back in at the same time, as the programming function erases all keys from memory, so you aren't just programming in the new one, but also any existing ones you have .

We just tried to code the key, but we think the new key might be the wrong type for the immobiliser.

Went through the process and got both keys working, but the key light was flashing on the car, with either key. I think at this time no keys were paired with the car.

Tried again to no luck, would start car, but flashing lights on both keys.

Coded back the original key telling the car only 1 key to be paired and this worked. Started car and no flashing light.

Nice to me you to Mark.

We just tried to code the key, but we think the new key might be the wrong type for the immobiliser.

Went through the process and got both keys working, but the key light was flashing on the car, with either key. I think at this time no keys were paired with the car.

Tried again to no luck, would start car, but flashing lights on both keys.

Coded back the original key telling the car only 1 key to be paired and this worked. Started car and no flashing light.

Nice to me you to Mark.

Yea the coding of the original key had me pulling my hair out after the failed coding of the ebay key

i thought it should code even though the 2nd didn't

The 2nd key not coding with the immo light flashing is the same as what happened to me

order a new transponder if the keys are the same part no's and that should do the trick!!

Mk1 transponder should be AKTP2

going to get a transponder on order now thanks guys will let you know how we get on big thanks to matt for the help:thumbup:

just a quick one when you pull the key into two half what do all the numbers mean on the back of the button part

also which half of thr key holds the immoboliser chip

going to get a transponder on order now thanks guys will let you know how we get on big thanks to matt for the help:thumbup:

just a quick one when you pull the key into two half what do all the numbers mean on the back of the button part

also which half of thr key holds the immoboliser chip

Unsure of all the numbers just the part number which is hard not to see

Underneath the sticky badge (skoda badge) there is a screw unscrew that and split the key from the buttons then the side with the key can then be split in half to reveal the transponder, I wouldnt worry about breaking the transponder out as you will have a fresh one just make sure its the correct one you order tho (i ordered a ford one by accident first time)

Unsure of all the numbers just the part number which is hard not to see

Underneath the sticky badge (skoda badge) there is a screw unscrew that and split the key from the buttons then the side with the key can then be split in half to reveal the transponder, I wouldnt worry about breaking the transponder out as you will have a fresh one just make sure its the correct one you order tho (i ordered a ford one by accident first time)

just had a bash and got it apart distroyed the skoda badge but will look for some new ons spoke to hickey today very helpfull sorted me out with a new transponder £8 including delivery so running total so far for new key is just £29 bargin compared to skoda prices i just hope now the transponder will code now

how fast orderd the transponder yesterday at 4pm and it was there in the post today what great service

are you ready for another go matt?

how fast orderd the transponder yesterday at 4pm and it was there in the post today what great service

are you ready for another go matt?

Yea good service from hinkley

Good luck I'm sure the process will fly through now:thumbup:

Yea good service from hinkley

Good luck I'm sure the process will fly through now:thumbup:

your right mate flew throught thanks for all the help of you kind people and a big thanks to mluton for coding my key:thumbup: