The next shot shows the front battery rack in place, with two of the 110Ah Floodies present (I'm running a total of six of these initially, just to get road legal and test out the car and systems, then onto 144v nominal of proper lithium! )

Still got to do the battery hold down at this point.

The next picture shows the control box with the main cabling done and the throttle and pot box set up. The 12v control wiring, pre-charge and instrument wiring is still to do:

The next shots are of overall progress to date. The space left on the shelf is for future placement of the DC/DC converter. This will be run in conjunction with the small 40Ah accessory battery you can see in the rear right of the shots.

The black grommet in the control box lid is to allow access to connect the emergency shut off cable to the main breaker once the box lid is on.

That'll do for now, I'll be back soon, the plan is to have the car ready for, and MOT'd by the end of next week

Awesome work there m8 really looks good

Sent from my Galaxy S3, not a Crapple!

Wow, just wow.

Really loving your work and it's very pleasing to see this progressing so well.

What do you estimate the range and speed to be with the current temporary batteries?

Phil

Looks a really neat installation!

I cannot wait to see this turn silently to a meet.

A cracking project and a testament to your skills

Just amazing, best car project I have ever seen without a doubt.

I've been working steadily on the car, the day job has, as ever, has kept getting in the way, but I'm very nearly ready for the MOT now.

I've spent a a good full four days finishing up all the control wiring, building safety interlocks on the gear selector to lock out the throttle function when out of gear, installing the impact switch cut off circuit and manual emergency circuit breaker control, finishing the voltmeter/ammeter/temperature guages wiring etc.. Doesn't actually look like much progress actually, but seems to have taken ages.

I've tested it all out with just 12v on the main pack at this point. All seems good.

Just have to run the last battery box cabling now and then overhaul the brakes, and I'm off for the MOT

Finished control box:

Close up of the circuit breaker access for turning it off or resetting:

Wish I could be there to see the look on the MOT tester's face when you take it in!

Wish I could be there to see the look on the MOT tester's face when you take it in!

Never seen this model/version............."I built it myself".............This ain't self build it's to OEM/pro............

Mind you Bossfox I'd like to see the MOT testers face when your project goes in for it's first MOT............ .....hang on there's a driveshaft down the back here........my book says these are front wheel drive (FWD).....must be wrong.........wait a min'...theres still the driveshafts to the front??????............I get it.........when it says FWD in the book it must mean Four wheel drive!!!!!!......... :rofl:

OK, so I've got the control wiring finished and tested out at last .

One thing that's been bothering me for a while is that an MOT tester, or any other third party for that matter can "blip" the throttle as you might in an ICE when the car is in neutral and we all know how that can end!

So I built a throttle override switch to run in parallel with the throttle and keep resistance at zero when not in gear.

The two microswitches are normally closed and wired in series so keeping the throttle locked out until either switch is activated by engaging a gear. One switch covers 1,3,5, the other 2,4,R.

You can see it fitted below along with an additional control disk monted on the gear linkage.

OK, that's it for now, just still got to run the battery cables to the rear boxes and overhaul the brakes, MOT is booked for next week, at last..

That's really good thinking and workmanship there m8

Sent from my Galaxy S3, not a Crapple!

Just realised, you may all not know why this matters. With a DC series wound motor, if anything more than a very low voltage, 12v-24v is applied to the motor at no load (ie. flooring the throttle pedal in neutral) the motor will almost instantaniously accelerate to a dangerously high RPM and could destroy itself and/or possibly the gearbox!

Again epic .Does the Mot center know it is electric or just going to shock them

Just realised, you may all not know why this matters. With a DC series wound motor, if anything more than a very low voltage, 12v-24v is applied to the motor at no load (ie. flooring the throttle pedal in neutral) the motor will almost instantaniously accelerate to a dangerously high RPM and could destroy itself and/or possibly the gearbox!

That would not be good. Clever yet simple solution you came up with there.

I what gear will you set off in? I assume it would be possible to set off in any gear but in kindness to the gearbox and clucth I'm guessing you would use 2nd?

Finger crossed for the MOT. Is there any additional checks that need to be done with an electric car?

Phil

Very nice to see this project coming along

Very nice to see this project coming along

This.

Great project.

What about if the M.O.T. tester revs it with the clutch depressed?

Great looking project.

Hi all,

Will usually set off in 2nd unless on a very steep hill, could probably even use 3rd, but the acceleration will be a little slower.

There is no clutch, the motor is linked to the transmission via a damped coupler (see earlier posts on this). A clutch isn't needed as there is no large rotating powered mass to remove as with the original petrol engine, just the additional few KG's of the motor armature, which isn't powered when the throttle is released, so you can change gear at will clutchless

I'll have to be there during the MOT, as the tester won't have a clue how to start it!

Starting sequence:

Ign. on position gives accessories only along with brake pre-charge as needed (if not still under vacuum). To prepare for drive, the key is momentarily turned to the start position and the drive system relay latches. The drive system active (Amber) warning light comes on along with a Red pre-charge warning light. The controller is soft started by charging the capacitors through a resistor. After 8 seconds this is complete and the main system contactor now closes giving full pack voltage to the controller and the pre-charge warning light goes out. The car is now ready to go. (You can't go before this as the throttle is locked out). Simples!!

Forgot to add, there are no additional MOT checks for an electric car other than the usual cables and batteries must be secure etc. In fact the test should be a bit faster, with no exhaust, emmissions, or fuel lines to check.

Hi all,

Will usually set off in 2nd unless on a very steep hill, could probably even use 3rd, but the acceleration will be a little slower.

There is no clutch, the motor is linked to the transmission via a damped coupler (see earlier posts on this). A clutch isn't needed as there is no large rotating powered mass to remove as with the original petrol engine, just the additional few KG's of the motor armature, which isn't powered when the throttle is released, so you can change gear at will clutchless

I'll have to be there during the MOT, as the tester won't have a clue how to start it!

Starting sequence:

Ign. on position gives accessories only along with brake pre-charge as needed (if not still under vacuum). To prepare for drive, the key is momentarily turned to the start position and the drive system relay latches. The drive system active (Amber) warning light comes on along with a Red pre-charge warning light. The controller is soft started by charging the capacitors through a resistor. After 8 seconds this is complete and the main system contactor now closes giving full pack voltage to the controller and the pre-charge warning light goes out. The car is now ready to go. (You can't go before this as the throttle is locked out). Simples!!

you forgot to add the last line of command.............

"Engage warp factor 9"..........

At least it will not be driven away from your house the thieves will not have a clue

At least it will not be driven away from your hose the thieves will not have a clue

Nor would they get all that far with it

Lol that just gave me a great idea for an additional project. A security system that delivers the full voltage of the battery system to the base of the seat The chair, the chair! lol.

Did it pass the MOT?