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hey guy's.

Whats the best way to get more power out of an 1.6 AEE ?

Now I know that a full exhaust system, and filter mods, will improve BHP.

But they arn't going to really give me loads of power. If im luckly about 10 bhp more.

After this stage, whats the best route to go down then? ;)

I know these will help, but they could be quite expensive, so not just yet.

. 16V head conversion from polo, with the belt mod.

. Nitrous (only when the cars on its last wheels)

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hi edd,

I know about porting, great idea by the way. :thumbup:

Unfortunatly the company who would do it for me have sold up, and its now a car forecourt, where we bought our octavia from today.:rolleyes:

when you say chipped ecu what do you mean? a new better one, or modifying the STD version.:confused:

Also whats the price gonna be for that? And where can I get it done?

Tom im sure you have some idea's? - wherever you are.:cool:

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There are a few companies around that will "chip" your ecu, Basically its re mapping the ign timing and injector pulses and how long they stay open, ususally a good one will give a realistic 15-20% increase on a standard engine but once you start porting and fitting a fast road cam, even bigger valves your "chipping" can get even wilder. A rebore on the engine to the maximum ususally +60 thou over standard will help with torque. It depends on what you want from your engine, torque or power

Power or hp will depend on how hard you hit a fence

Torque will depend on how far you take the fence after you hit it, hehe. :D

The problem with hp is unless you have more cc's your going to have to start thinking about the power coming further up your rev range,

A friend and I have just finished building a kent engine for his classic racing Anglia. Original 45bhp on 1.2 now with bored and stroked block to just under 2.0ltr siames block offset valves roller rockers and lightened pushrods steel crank and rods etc... engine was dyno'd at 224 bhp. On a pushrod wehey!! But nothing happens till 4500 all the way up to 8000 rpm we could go with more bhp but we've used an a8 cam rather an a9 'cause she is all lightened etc but she's is still a lump to get of the line :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

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will do.

Also, yes actually more torque would be better, I've been driving mums octy all day! wow SOOO much torque I want this!

humm Can I get a 1.9TDI engine in there?? humm id say no (seen tom's trouble).

So how can i tune the engine to get more torque then?

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tis true the 1.9 in the felly has no turbo or fuel injection, so its less powerful than mine to start with.

Humm I cant seem to find anyone to chip the ECU, google only comes up with polo forums and this thread on briskoda lol.

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actually after watching that episode of top gear (2 in the current series i think)

where they modify that renault somethingorother, to beat an evo 10 round the track.

maybe I should chuck the back seats, and sound system out.

That would save loads of weight...

And on the handling side of things, whats the best to start with?

I remember you modifyed your suspension edd, what happened with that in the end?

Im going to have to ring some companies up about better brakes, ow how about discs all round?

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well. i'm using HPspoting coilovers and there very good for the money (think i might have broken a spring mind)

brakes. well you can with some fettling get G60 discs under a 15inch wheel, but you'll have to find some calipers to fit. sa for the rear, MK2 golf gti rear hubs/discs will go on.

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i think the aftermarker ignition system is a good idea, MSD is well know, i actualy was thinking of getting one myself, just to make sure you burn all the fuel the remapped ECu is goin to put in, and remember, more gas ecuals mor torque and less economy

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hey guy's.

Whats the best way to get more power out of an 1.6 AEE ?

Now I know that a full exhaust system, and filter mods, will improve BHP.

But they arn't going to really give me loads of power. If im luckly about 10 bhp more.

After this stage, whats the best route to go down then? ;)

I know these will help, but they could be quite expensive, so not just yet.

. 16V head conversion from polo, with the belt mod.

. Nitrous (only when the cars on its last wheels)

what is your purposed, race on it, have more acceleration or having a greater top speed ???

have you considered tuning ignition timing, and valve clearance/timing for torque or max hp (equaling max speed) ? i can give you a much better feel and is almost no cost (if you have a dyno to test out various timing conbinations you can do wonders just with these two things)

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what with like a power commander, but for cars.

To adjust the ignition tuning,

I could have access to a dyno, there are a few round here, but I have no idea how much they charge per hour I will have to find out.

dont know what a power commander is, and much less if theres any for a car...

if you have access to a Dyno, what you need to do is run it a couple of times and take note of the graph of power output / rpms, then figure out where do you want the torque to go or if you want to raise the hp (wich would affect the hole graph)

changes to you idle mix (air:fuel) will affect the hole graph

changes to the valve clearance will affect high and low rpms high valve clearance will increase torque in low revs but will affet high revs, and low valve clearance will do the same but backwards, experimenting with diferent intake and exhaust values migh yield a great power boots trough the entire graph remember that less clearance measn the valve stays open for a longer period of time, and vice-versa i was personaly thinking of tuning the valve clerance in mine to 0.20mm intake 0.25mm exhaust(inverse of what they should be) to see what gain i would get for a bigger volume of air comming in and a stiffer exhaust

ignition timing will affect a specific segment of the graph, if you have a ignition where you can tune the vacuum advance, initial timing and total timing you can increase your hp in one area without affecting the other,

and aftermarket ignition system like MSD is a good buy, it doent increase power, but by having it you can increase the gap in the plugs and make sure any and all fuel is burned properly and fast, thus maximizing your tunning

also here in the dominican republic, there are people how actualy build custom an exhaust manifold (heather) from scratch, this is by far better than increasing the diameter of the exhaust or removing the cat / muffler... a good heather will let air flow out of the engine without turbulece and keeping a costant back presure needed in some rpms, and theyre relatively cheap, try to find a metal workshop, maybe they can build you one cheap out of an existing one (supposed to buying one at whatever prices ther ask) but i would not go over 2.5" in the exhaust diameter (it hurt low cc engines) and only ads a placebo effect due to the sound anyways but make the cars top speed and torque to go down (though max hp in low revs are higher)

tweaking the chip only mean your making the air:fuel mix leaner, and that has a big affect on miles per galons, i would sujest tweaking your exhaust, intake, valves and ignition system before going into that....

again, these are ideas out of my head, have done them to an extent (timing and mix wise) but without a dyno to give me visual confirmation and a working knowledge of what rpms are being afected...

i myself will be doing all these thinga as soon as i have the car working the way i want it so any saavy persons out there ideas/ corrections are welcomed

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in regards to tuning, unless you have a big bag of money burning a hole in your sweaty palm, DONT BOTHER, yes true getting the old girl chipped and adding a fancy exhaust may net you a few more ponies, but that guy with the saxo vtr will still be that little bit faster..

i still do like the 16v swap idea a lot though

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is that a hint tom?:D

How difficult would it be, to modify the tensioner for the belt on the 16v head.

And where can i find just a head?

raid a scrap yard?

buy a polo engine?

which engine was it anyway, the 1.4 16v or was it a 1.6 16 v?

And the VW engine code would help too.

That kind of thread would bring excitement back to the forum too:thumbup:

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A friend and I have just finished building a kent engine for his classic racing Anglia. Original 45bhp on 1.2 now with bored and stroked block to just under 2.0ltr siames block offset valves roller rockers and lightened pushrods steel crank and rods etc... engine was dyno'd at 224 bhp.

That's quite a feat on a Kent, respect is due! A mate of mine had one up to about 150HP and that was pretty wild in a Mk 2 Escort.

But nothing happens till 4500 all the way up to 8000 rpm

This is always the drawback and the reason why you need a steel crank (cos a cast iron one will fall apart at 8k, innit). But it does make the point that one of the easiest ways to 'uprate' the power of any engine is to rev the bejasus off it. You wouldn't believe some of the cars I've burned off at the lights in my completely standard 1.3 Favorit just by dint of changing gear later than the other guy.

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in regards to making the engine fit, i'd have to have a look at one, my gut thought is to just use the whole 1.4 unit rather than trying to put the 16v top on the 1600 lump.

there are a few different types of 16v lump out there, the early ones would be better (afh) engine code from 6n polo (1995-1999), also iirc a few of the seat ibiza's had them too but i'd have to check, wiring should be fairly straight forward becasue the afh unit also uses the same magnetti-marelli 1av injection unit that the 1600 felicia uses and the wiring loom for the afh engine is largely the same..

best plan would be to use a 1600cc felicia loom and tweak it a little to fit, and use the 16v polo ecu (which would have the right settings for the engine) although somebody clever would need to use vag-com on it to get the ecu to work with the immobilizer, i think it might also be necessary to swap the wiring plugs for the fuel injectors too but that is easy..

mechanically speaking, rather than trying to alter the belts, which need to be ultra reliable!, the engine mounting itself could be bodged up from a few pieces of ally welded together and i'm sure i could even make it for you if you send me a drawing or a rough sketch..

pretty much everything else would be a swap job, use the felicia 1600 flywheel and clutch, even the throttle cable would be in the right place!! the only other potential headache is the exhaust downpipe, but i reckon you could use one of those £150 ebay 4-2-1 linky jobbies and 'make' it fit

after that is all up and running, then is the time to think about spending out on more to make it 1.6..

although i've said this, there are other engines out there which may be suitable and possibly easier to find too, lupo sport engine is a good candidate too and it has a lightweight ally block, but that would require a little more work to get it running

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That's quite a feat on a Kent, respect is due! A mate of mine had one up to about 150HP and that was pretty wild in a Mk 2 Escort.

This is always the drawback and the reason why you need a steel crank (cos a cast iron one will fall apart at 8k, innit). But it does make the point that one of the easiest ways to 'uprate' the power of any engine is to rev the bejasus off it. You wouldn't believe some of the cars I've burned off at the lights in my completely standard 1.3 Favorit just by dint of changing gear later than the other guy.

Cheers Richard its taken some work, locating a siamese south african block to take the rebore was the hardest part. with the valve lift and a 11.5 to 1 comp ratio things are running very close if we miss a gear a certain coming together of moving parts will most definately happen. But this engine in this state of tune could only be used on the track, but we reckon for road use 180 could be reliabe enough all be it a bit peaky, but man what a noise it makes at 8000, gives you goose bumps while listening to "the ride of the valkery" though the engine will go to about 9500 with rods and crank and we've used cossy bolts/nuts on the mains and big ends, Can't wait to turn some wheels in anger:D

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