air con problem

[rwbaldwin]

Shutoff code 12 means that ECU has sent a shutdown request via CAN. It usually does this when the engine is starting or accelerating or the idle speed is undercut.

What happens if you raise the engine rpm to a constant 1500rpm?

Can you post all the data as you did in #16

[Badger Driver]

compressor shut off code 12

engine speed 1500/min

vehicle speed 0.0km/h

standing time 01:31

compressor current actual

compressor current specified 0.000A

compressor speed 0/min

compressor load 0.0Nm

coolant pressure 3.0bar

rad fan activation actual 10.0%

rad fan activation specified 0.0%

engine speed increase OFF

[Badger Driver]

there is the readings have you any idea what i need to do get it working.

when i fitted the new compressor it changed the shut off code from 16(compressor activation faulty) to shut off code 12(shut off requested by engine control)

so i dunno how to sort it out now

[Badger Driver]

hey lads (and girls) got it sorted there to night had to go into Applications, then Controller channel map, then controller address 08 selected adaptation and the clicked go and it is sorted.

[rwbaldwin]

The coolant pressure is too low. A static pressure of 3.0bar corresponds to an ambient temp of less than zero. You are either low on gas or have a faulty pressure sender.

My guess is that you are leaking gas. In post #16 the pressure was 5.6bar which seemed OK.

A manifold gauge set will allow you to confirm the pressure sender reading.

[rwbaldwin]

[08 - Heating/Air Conditioning]

[basic Settings - 04]

Group 001

Go

This causes the Climatronic control unit to disgard all faults/learned settings and then go through a process to relearn the system it is attached to.

[Badger Driver]

Nope not leaking I just Replaced the compressor and then took it to get regassed. But he said there was no point putting more gas in if it isn't working. So going back to get the rest off my gas tonight.

[sameerdass]

Hi,

After changing the compressor, it is mandatory to do a Compressor first time Run-in process, which can be initiated in the basic settings for the HVAC controller. Select Manual Run-in and the AC light on the dash will blink when you start your Yeti. Press the AC button and it will start the Run-in process (typically around 120sec). After this is completed, the HVAC controller and ECU controller will be tuned to each other for the new compressor. This may resolve the error that you are getting.

Regards,

Sameer

Edited 7 September, 2011 by sameerdass

[perkyvrs]

Does anyone have any ideas how to get the pressure sensor switch off without dismantling half the front on my mk11 octavia? Its leaking form it and got a new o ring but going to be hell to try and get the the bolt head underneath the switch.

[rwbaldwin]

Does anyone have any ideas how to get the pressure sensor switch off without dismantling half the front on my mk11 octavia? Its leaking form it and got a new o ring but going to be hell to try and get the the bolt head underneath the switch.

Petrol/Diesel? Engine? Year? Climatic/Climatronic?

Pressure Sensor or Pressure Switch?

In either case, you unplug the connector and use a spanner to unscrew the sensor or switch. Before you do that, you need to recover the gas.

[perkyvrs]

Its a 2007 petrol vrs. Its the switch/sensor on the drivers side just behind the radiator. There is nut underneath that is very awkward to get to for it to be romoved to put in a new o ring

[rwbaldwin]

The 'nut' is part of the high pressure sender. The sender screws off after you have removed the connector. The torque is only 8Nm, so you may be able to unscrew it by hand.

[perkyvrs]

Thanks,will try again in the morning. Couldnt even get the bloody connector of earlier,they come of easy everywhere but that one. Thanks will let you know how i get on

[martin1611]

If it helps I've just changed my Sensor G65 because of a intermittent air con, no need to remove any parts all I did was bend a 17mm spaner at the head so it looks like a crows foot, also no gas was released there was a valve inside the small pipe the holds the sensor that looks like a normal tyre valve type thingy.

Result - air con still intermittent

[KBPhoto]

What happens if you raise the engine rpm to a constant 1500rpm?

This might be a real numpty question, but here goes...

At what point do you start the engine when using VCDS? Before plugging in? After plugging in but before starting software?

I don't want to damage anything but I do want to diagnose my air con problem.

The compressor speed is showing as 0 (zero) rotations despite being on (engine not running) which doesn't look good!

And current is 0.0A

Shut off code is 7 (when Climatic switch is off) and 5 when air con is running.

If someone can tell me when to start the engine I'll be able to have a better look.

[rwbaldwin]

If you are retrieving fault codes, you don't need the engine to be running - you just need the ignition on. It doesn't matter if you do start the engine - you can still read the codes.

The compressor speed will be zero if the engine is not running as it is driven by the engine. You need the engine running to read compressor speed and this is the case for many other parameters.

If in doubt, run the engine.

[KBPhoto]

I guessed that the compressor wouldn't be running if the engine wasn't, but can I plug the VCDS cable in before starting the engine or is it safer to plug it in after the engine has been started?

[rwbaldwin]

I always connect the lead before turning on the ignition, so the plug is making the connection without power. Turning on the ignition then turns on the lead with the ECU and other modules.

[KBPhoto]

As there are some knowledgeable people already in this thread, I hope you won't mind me adding my data to see if there is any similarity.

Mines a manual diesel Octavia II ('07) without the Climatronic controls (standard Climatic controls only the Ambiente).

Engine Idle:

Shut off code: 0.0

Engine speed: 800/min

Compressor current (Actual): 0.560A

Compressor speed: 1000/min

Compressor Load: 6.4Nm

Coolant pressure: 12.0 bar

Radiator fan Activation (actual): 46.8%

Outside temp (filtered): 18.5 C

Outlet Blower Temperature: 8.0 C

Interior Temperature: 33.0 C

Accelerator peddle depressed:

Shut off code: 0.0

Engine speed: 1500/min

Compressor current (Actual): 0.610A

Compressor speed: 1900/min

Compressor Load: 5.7Nm

Coolant pressure: 14.0 bar

Radiator fan Activation (actual): 60.8%

Outside temp (filtered): 19.5 C

Outlet Blower Temperature: 10.0 C

Interior Temperature: 33.0 C

Does this give any clues as to why my Air Con is not running very cold (it is colder than on Econ settings, but no where near as cold as it should be)?

Had it re-gassed last month as it had never been done - not because I thought there was a problem - but the mechanic asked if I was experiencing any problems with it. He recovered the gas, cleaned the system and re-gassed it to the correct pressure.

For the rest of that day the air con ran much colder than normal. Next day it was not quite as good then after that it was back to 'normal'.

The system he used to do the regass didn't pick up any problems with leaks, etc. so I'm a little stumped!

Compressor seems to be OK. No leaks (so I am told).

Have I misinterpreted something in this thread and am I reading the data wrong?

Or is there a specific problem that I don't know about? Yet.

[rwbaldwin]

You should be able to get down to 7degC given an outside temp of less than 35degC, so you are not that far away at 8degC. In fact the compressor has been instructed to throttle back as the outlet blower temp is approaching the set temp (the N280 duty cycle/compressor current is not at maximum). A compressor current of 0.8A is 100% duty cycle.

The high side pressure seems OK, but without knowing the low pressure I can't be certain that there isn't a minor problem. The system should be filled by weight - not pressure as is dependant on temperature and this is almost impossible to determine. Whilst the fill is 'in range' the refrigerant might be a little low. A manifold gauge set (or the gauges on an a/c station) would tell you.

If you were used to a MK1, then you will be disappointed as the MK2 doesn't have the same cooling capacity.

[rwbaldwin]

One thing you should do, it confirm the vent temperature with a digital thermometer. If the sensor is reading low, then the compressor will throttle back when it shouldn't.

[pete8tch]

Having major problems with mine , I'm fairly sure its the compressor , shut off code is 3 , if anybody knows what that is but its leaking badly in the compressor area

[rwbaldwin]

Having major problems with mine , I'm fairly sure its the compressor , shut off code is 3 , if anybody knows what that is but its leaking badly in the compressor area

shut off code 3 is Low Refrigerant Pressure

[pete8tch]

That helps , not seizure i hope, just need to get at it

[KBPhoto]

If you were used to a MK1, then you will be disappointed as the MK2 doesn't have the same cooling capacity.

I never had a Mk1 but have had other cars with better air con.

What got me thinking was the guy at Midlands VW asking if I'd had a problem with the air con when he was regassing it. He then said that they are normally much colder than mine was.

His reason was that the compressor was on its way out, but not dead yet. Does this seem likely with these figures?

However, when I drive away the air con was very cold, as cold as any other car I've had. It just didn't last...

Can I check lo-side pressure with VCDS?

I'll also check vent temp when I can find a decent thermometer.