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air con problem

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The compressor seems healthy enough, as at 75% duty cycle it's generating 14bar. You can't measure the low pressure side with VCDS.

When was the last time you changed the pollen filter? That can make a difference to the volume of cold air produced.

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  • Steve_Birdie
    Steve_Birdie

    First thing to note is you have a shut off code!! :'( and your compressor isnt spinning or loaded :( My 1.9TDi PD105 Octavia MK2 gives the results below: At 22degrees 0.0 Compressor Shut-Off

  • Hi, After changing the compressor, it is mandatory to do a Compressor first time Run-in process, which can be initiated in the basic settings for the HVAC controller. Select Manual Run-in and the AC

  • I always connect the lead before turning on the ignition, so the plug is making the connection without power. Turning on the ignition then turns on the lead with the ECU and other modules.

Could it be the flaps inside the car being stuck? Try using the Output Tests on VCDS to cycle all the flaps and check that they all move the full range.

Also, are all the temperature sensors in the air ducts working and still in place? One of mine dropped out and I was getting cold air out of one side and warm the other?

The compressor seems healthy enough, as at 75% duty cycle it's generating 14bar.

Well that's some good news today!

You can't measure the low pressure side with VCDS.

Pity - that would have been too easy though. When it went into Midland VW, they didn't notice anything untoward with the pressures; only that the compressor seemed to be 'dying' and not pumping enough cold air through. Had it not been for the fact that the air con was very cold after the regass (for the rest of that day), I probably wouldn't have been overly concerned.

One other thing that springs to mind is that on a colder day the air con seems to blow a bit colder. Is this normal or am I imagining it?

When was the last time you changed the pollen filter? That can make a difference to the volume of cold air produced.

I've had the car two years and it hasn't (to my knowledge) been changed. It has been pulled out and the major debris removed though. It's due a major service at the end of this month, so it will get changed. I don't think that is my problem though.

Could it be the flaps inside the car being stuck? Try using the Output Tests on VCDS to cycle all the flaps and check that they all move the full range.

Thanks - I'll look that one up and see how to do it. Do you mean the flaps that divert the air on different places (windscreen, footwell, dash vents, etc.)?

Also, are all the temperature sensors in the air ducts working and still in place? One of mine dropped out and I was getting cold air out of one side and warm the other?

Cool air coming out of all vents, both side, top & bottom - but only really noticeable when the blower is on 4 (full). I don't know where all the temp sensors are, but the ones under the dash top center box were all still in place last time I looked (last month).

I guess there must be one down in the footwell somewhere to be able to detect the air temp through that in VCDS.

There is a flap that directs either warm or cold air - if that is sticking then it might be that. But seeing as it was ice cold following the regas I think the fault is elsewhere.

Do your radiator fans kick in OK when the AC is on?

We are just in the middle of a lightning storm (with heavy rain) so I think I'll leave checking that until tomorrow...

Has anybody got a pipe work diagram , the leak is some very close to the compressor .

...One other thing that springs to mind is that on a colder day the air con seems to blow a bit colder. Is this normal or am I imagining it...

That's normal. The air starts off colder :)

You get rid of the heat at the condenser and the temperature gradient between condenser and ambient temp is greater.

You may also find it blows a bit colder when the car is moving when there is greater airflow through the condenser.

  • 2 years later...

So how come Badger's air con started working when the pressure was too low??

 

Hey y'all, I've been reading this thread as I really want to resolve my air con problem which sounds similar to Badgers.

 

Thing is, having read the above, I'm tempted to simply replace my compressor.  But I've read some other stuff online that suggests that due to the common failure mode (shearing shafts creating metallic debris throughout the system) a simple replacement could just cause the new part to fail shorty after.  Any thoughts on that anyone??

 

Thanks LOADS for anyone that replies!

 

-x JLT x-

It can't work at those low pressures, needs to be about 10 bar on the coolant pressure for AC to kick in.

 

With the compressor you need to establish what has caused it to fail 

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