The situation is this:

Wi-fi reception in our bedroom is a bit patchy due, I suspect, to the location of the wi-fi router and the obstacles in the signals path.

What I'd like to do is this:

I have ethernet cables that run behind the wall and into the loft from the study (where the router is located) and will locate the other end of one of the cables in our bedroom. I would terminate the cable in an ethernet socket and plug a wi-fi repeater / booster in to the socket. From the repeater / booster I want to run an ethernet cable to the TV have the ability to connect the TV to the internet and access the wi-fi with laptop / tablet / phone, etc.

So, the question(s) is/are:

Does this make sense and if not, what recommendations would you make to give the same setup?

Will the ethernet cable allow more than one connection through it (e.g. tv and wi-fi connections)?

What equipment (make/model) would be suitable?

Powerline adaptors. Plug in the wall one end, one the t'other end, Robert's your mothers brother.

Powerline adaptors. Plug in the wall one end, one the t'other end, Robert's your mothers brother.

Thanks Lee. Will they also provide a wi/fi signal in the bedroom?

Just get a wireless bridge. Or try another channel.

Try the Wifi analyser app on your phone to find a better channel

Thanks Lee. Will they also provide a wi/fi signal in the bedroom?

No, unfortunately they are just a 'hard' connection.

Powerline adapaters work well, but if you don't mind running in a cable then it's a better solution.

Once you've run in your cable just add a switch:

www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-SF1005D-100Mbps-Unmanaged-Desktop/dp/B000FNFSPY/

and one of these:

www.amazon.co.uk/TL-WR702N-150Mbps-Wireless-Router-Charger/dp/B006PYGWG6/

You could probably find one box that will replace both of those, but probably not any cheaper.

Thanks Lee. Will they also provide a wi/fi signal in the bedroom?

No, unfortunately they are just a 'hard' connection.

{Sorry Lee}

You can get wireless Powerline adaptors, so an ethernet unit at one end, by the router, going 'in' to the mains, at the other end a plug-in unit that's wireless. You can then plug it in anywhere in the house and get a signal.

We use these:

http://www.ebuyer.com/362875-300mbps-wireless-powerline-extender-with-ethernet-port-twin-pack-tl-wpa281kit?utm_source=google&utm_medium=products&gclid=CJHsq4TlnLcCFcXItAodTzsAkA

{Sorry Lee}

You can get wireless Powerline adaptors, so an ethernet unit at one end, by the router, going 'in' to the mains, at the other end a plug-in unit that's wireless. You can then plug it in anywhere in the house and get a signal.

We use these:

http://www.ebuyer.co...CFcXItAodTzsAkA

No worries live and learn and happy to be corrected, bud

Just run a couple of cables - one for the TV and one for the wifi AP. Cheaper than fitting a switch in the bedroom.

Or if you have an old wifi router from a previous BB supplier, then plug that in at the bedroom end (still run the length of cat5), and use that. Remember to disable DHCP on it, and if you set the wifi details (SSID, encryption type & password) to be the same then devices will use which ever offers the stronger signal.

Whenever I put a cat5 drop in the house, I run in a pair. You never know when you will need extra sockets.

I use the powerline (devolo) to connect up my garage (down 50m of armoured cable), but the rest of the house is all cat5.

Another idea would be to use one of these.(assuming TV is WiFi also).

http://www.4gon.co.uk/ubiquiti-unifi-uaplr-p-4749.html

I use these for work and they are a superb device!

Esentially the unit comes with a POE(Power over ethernet) power supply that is like a small adapter which can sit next to your router. Assuming your router has an ethernet port its a case of plugging 1 cat5 patch lead from router to POE adapter and then plug the long cable from loft into the POE port on adapter(same cat5 plug/socket arrangement). The unit derives its power and data from the 1 cat5 cable so no need to power it up in loft.

If you can use cat5/6 cabling direct to each device(using a switch at other end) then that is always going to be the preffered method.

Powerline adapaters work well, but if you don't mind running in a cable then it's a better solution.

Once you've run in your cable just add a switch:

www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-SF1005D-100Mbps-Unmanaged-Desktop/dp/B000FNFSPY/

and one of these:

www.amazon.co.uk/TL-WR702N-150Mbps-Wireless-Router-Charger/dp/B006PYGWG6/

You could probably find one box that will replace both of those, but probably not any cheaper.

This looks like a suitably cheap and effective solution. Thanks!

some of the new powerline stuff is now much faster and does wifi N

with wifi http://www.amazon.co.uk/TL-WPA281KIT-Powerline-Extender-Wireless-Starter/dp/B0067GS29W/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1368802835&sr=1-1&keywords=wifi+powerline

without http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-PA411KIT-AV500-Powerline-Adapter/dp/B0084Y9N3O/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1368802835&sr=1-6&keywords=wifi+powerline

TP link stuff is good value but there is better kit out there if you dont mind paying through the nose.

Ubiquiti stuff rocks but overcomplicated for what you want.

BUT

wherever possible use a cable :p

Remember to disable DHCP on it, and if you set the wifi details (SSID, encryption type & password) to be the same then devices will use which ever offers the stronger signal.

...but use a different channel.

Have you checked for channel issues?

We've had an influx of BT home hub's which have knackered almost all of the channels, and and I can't get a decent signal upstairs any more.

good free tool for checking is "inSSIDer" available for laptop or android/apple etc phones

I recently switched to 5ghz for the bulk of my wireless stuff due to the 2.4ghz band being so congested on all channels around my house due to the crappy talktalk routers everywhere.

I recently switched to 5ghz for the bulk of my wireless stuff due to the 2.4ghz band being so congested on all channels around my house due to the crappy talktalk routers everywhere.

Good move especially with all those naughty Bluetooth devices saturating the airwaves at 2.4 (something we do at the 200+ sites we manage with good results).

I know it wasnt the cheapest but i got an Apple Airport Extreme and i have to admit, yes it wasnt the cheapest but it works really, really well broadcasting on 2.4 and 5ghz at the same time for all devices.

Recently I was working at a location that didn't have interweb, but the Hotel next door (where some colleagues were staying) did have. to I bought THIS, walked into the hotel lobby and stuck it in a socket behind a piano. All I then had to do was log into it with my pooter (via it's Wi-Fi from the location I was working-dead easy) and connect the device to the hotels Wi-Fi. It then just retransmits the Wi-Fi network and you simply put the password in as normal. You can do a lot more with it too if you fancy a fiddle. The device was powerful enough to let one colleague get reception on the second floor, when the hotels Wi-Fi barely made it across the bar. Great little unit and dead easy to connect. No wires needed, just a mains socket.

Edited 19 May, 201313 yr by Lady Elanore

If you want a plug an play extendable WiFi solution have a look at the Apple Airport products they let you extend the range of your wireless network and provide a way to stream audio around the house at the same time.

This Apple support article might help

http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4262

You can get other manufacturer WiFi devices which allow WDS but you have to check the specs.

I've just fitted out a multi level georgian basement using a single router doing DHCP etc and then multiple engenius Wireless AP's.

They can run off PoE, which means if you buy a cheap PoE switch, then you don't have to find plug sockets all over the place.

It works really well and provides coverage all over the house.

That plus while they have an aerial, there are no flashy LED's anywhere visible.

If you only have 1 cable between the 2 locations you can run 2 network connections through it as long as it is not a gigabit link. You need 2 of these:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/CDL-Micro-RJ45-Cable-Economiser/dp/B000XMIJ12/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_1

One at each end to split the main cable into 2. You would need the main cable to be terminated into a socket at either end or use rj45 joiners if it has plugs on the end of the cable.

The situation is this:

Wi-fi reception in our bedroom is a bit patchy due, I suspect, to the location of the wi-fi router and the obstacles in the signals path.

What I'd like to do is this:

I have ethernet cables that run behind the wall and into the loft from the study (where the router is located) and will locate the other end of one of the cables in our bedroom. I would terminate the cable in an ethernet socket and plug a wi-fi repeater / booster in to the socket. From the repeater / booster I want to run an ethernet cable to the TV have the ability to connect the TV to the internet and access the wi-fi with laptop / tablet / phone, etc.

So, the question(s) is/are:

Does this make sense and if not, what recommendations would you make to give the same setup?

Will the ethernet cable allow more than one connection through it (e.g. tv and wi-fi connections)?

What equipment (make/model) would be suitable?

if you are using a pure wireless repeater hub (which from your description of a repeater/booster you are) i.e. an access point running in that basic repeating mode then you will be gaining distance but reducing throughput significantly.You also can only use WEP which is easily breakable using a packet sniffer.

I would suggest a wireless residential gateway or router which plugs into your internet connection and this gateway is then connected to another AP using a min CAT5e cable (better for VoIP and crosstalk issues) to connect them together. As long as you stay within the max 100 mtr distance you'll get good data rates. I'd then set your router or wireless gateway to say channel 1 and the other AP to channel 6 for example. This will ensure you have full mobility and you should not get channel overlap provided you use at least 5 channels of seperation between them (i.e. 1 and 6, 1,11 or 6 and 11). The channel seperation is important on 2.4Ghz range because there needs to be 25Mhz of gap between channels. don't both using other channels as very likely this will cause issues with neighbors who in turn will affect you.InSSIDer is a good program to survey what channels are being used. When you set both these devices up ensure you use a minimum WPA security and use the same SSID on both. They'll both have enough switch ports for you to connect up a few wireless devices.

Someone mentioned PoE which is a good thing but if you're using this make sure you get the newer standard which supports higher voltage as these are better. Alternatively if you don't want to have to connect up the 2nd AP to your mains power then use an inline PoE if you can get one which will power it sufficiently.

if you want to look at the signal path check for any major obstacles in the way such as metal. You could also trying moving your router if poss because the antenna works better when polarized correctly.Just my opinion

Edited 30 May, 201313 yr by newskoda

Have you checked for channel issues?

We've had an influx of BT home hub's which have knackered almost all of the channels, and and I can't get a decent signal upstairs any more.

Are you able to switch to 5Ghz range? most 802.11n APs support this now

some of the new powerline stuff is now much faster and does wifi N

with wifi http://www.amazon.co...=wifi powerline

without http://www.amazon.co...=wifi powerline

TP link stuff is good value but there is better kit out there if you dont mind paying through the nose.

Ubiquiti stuff rocks but overcomplicated for what you want.

BUT

wherever possible use a cable :p

TP Link is cheap ****. Apologies for the wording.

I'd recommend Cisco,netgear or Linksys(Cisco's partner or daugher company)