Hi,

Anyone have any experience regarding ATF fluid for the Tiptronic? Planning to change fluid and filter and doing a flushing, so need approx 12 litre of the stuff. Seeing that VAG is charging around USD 30 per litre here I have been looking for an alternative. Valvoline MaxLife seems to be compatible, has someone tried it or some other suggestions?

Hi,

Anyone have any experience regarding ATF fluid for the Tiptronic? Planning to change fluid and filter and doing a flushing, so need approx 12 litre of the stuff. Seeing that VAG is charging around USD 30 per litre here I have been looking for an alternative. Valvoline MaxLife seems to be compatible, has someone tried it or some other suggestions?

Try this.

http://www.tsgparts.net/index.php?p=catalog&parent=69&pg=1

5HP19FL.pdf

Thanks for the pdf, have checked with ZF here in Dubai and they also charge AED 105.00 per litre. Tried the local Redline rep for D4, also 105.00 per litre (USD 10.50 in the US!) Unable to find anyone stocking Pentosin here, so seems I have to try something available at a normal price. Datasheet for MaxLife claims to be compatible with VAG G 052 162 A1 and A6, while the spare part catalogue says A2 for my car. Don't know the difference here, but ZF lubricant list TE-ML 11 says A1,A2 and A6 for 5HP19FL so I guess it should be OK. I actually prefer to change the ATF every 15-20000 km anyway.

On these cars Skoda specify for the tiptronic sealed for life. KNowledgeable independents and some dealers will tell you 40-80k miles is about the right time to change the fluid and filter. I had mine changed at 75k.

I think 15-20000km is overdoing it a bit, TBH, you might be doing more damage than good. Setting the level correctly will require specialist knowledge and tools, not really a DIY job, unless you have a ramp or a pit, the knowledge and the tools.

Mine was done first at 120,000km and I did it again at 180,000km so every 60k in KM or 40k in miles for UK/Irish conditions, but I would agree with you in the desert more often would be prudent given the severe condtions. The part numbers for my last change in Dec 2012 were oil G052162A2 gasket 01V321371 strainer 01V325429, the strainer and gasket you should be able to source as a kit from Mann or other reputable filter maker changing the drain plug is also recommended If you check on the passat forums there is a lot more info available and as been stated previously the car should be hooked up to the laptop to monitor the temps as that is how the correct amount of fluid is replaced. Bear in mind if you drain/fill it will take 5/6 litres approx but this does not include the torque converter to get that out you would need a pump or the "two bucket method" . Heat is the enemy of these transmissions so stop start traffic, high ambient temps dusty conditions will all degrade the fluid faster.If you are changing every 20K then the drain/fill method should be good, will see if I can get a link for you, make sure to torque bolts correctly to prevent leaks.

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/291200-automatic-transmission-filter-fluid-change.html

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/auto-transmission-ATF-fluid-change.htm

http://www.taligentx.com/passat/maintenance/atfchange/

PS let us know how you get on it will add to the knowledge base here.

G

Had my fluid changed at 70k, along with cambelt service. I watched some of it being done - not a job for an amateur to do properly. Now on 121k - planning to do again at 140k.

Just had mine done at 95,000 miles.  I thought it was working fine before but it is significantly smoother shifting now, so very much recommended even if you think it is fine as it is!

I did this on my Audi S6 with Tiptronic, not something just to have a go at as the level is crucial and based on the temp of the gearbox oil and must be monitored using vag-com while .. I would only leave it into a ZF specialist to carry out the work.  As stated, oil, strainer and gasket required for the change..

I had all those bits changed with genuine parts by someone who knew and monitored the temp requirements (ex Audi techs) so should be good to g I hope.

Well spoke too soon... now have a jerking / bucking in reverse occasionally.  Apparently reverse is a weak link on these transmissions and it looks like mine was only working well with the old tired fluid... :(  Looks like I'm in for some expense.  Anyone got any experience of auto box specialists around East Anglia?

Bad news Jim 

 

Hope it's not serious.

 

Gaz

Jimbof - Woolleys at Hingham look after my Superb - Neil there is well knowledgable - he runs an A6. (Bad news is - they have a 52 plate A6 there with less than 6ok on the clock with a knackered box - and they can't get a s/h box anywhere.............) :think: But worth discussing.........

Thanks for the heads up.  The autobox specialist nearest to me seemed to up the price every time I phoned them, and their already high price doesn't include torque converter (if I've had crud running around I wouldn't like to bet what condition that is in, it is all in the same fluid after all) so going with someone a bit further afield but that can do the whole lot in house (gearbox, torque converter, etc).  Figure if it is coming off the car I might as well get it all done.  And they are prepared to put a 24,000 mile warranty on it, which will see me through another year at least.  I'll let you all know how I get on.

I would take it to a ZF service centre, I got my box done locally and it was never fixed right and cost £2500!!

Thanks, I dread to think what that would cost though - probably better to scrap the car...  It is only worth 4-4.5K working, the rebuilt will be £1500.

 

Doesn't fill you with confidence when the likes of Sussex Autos are still peddling on their site that these are all "filled for life"

 

http://www.sussexautos.co.uk/zf-transmissions.php

• All ZF transmissions are filled for life

What a can of worms huh.  

They're only a few miles up the road from me Jim.

 

I spent £1100 having the valve body replaced on my Saab a couple of years ago.  Seemed good at first, but then went back into a heavy thunk on taking up drive.  Wish I'd either replaced the entire box (£2,400) or binned the car ('52 plate 9-5 HOT Aero). Scrapping the car would've made sense as it was only worth £2,000, but the decision was made for me in any case in bad weather.

 

In your shoes, I'd probably get the box fixed, PITA as that may be.  G'luck whatever you decide to do.

 

Gaz

Ouch.  I don't know anything about Sussex Autos but I've seen them recommended on some other sites and obviously know a thing or two about automatics so I was surprised to see them claiming lifetime fill on their website.

 

The people who I'm taking mine to (Stephens Engineering) reckon 24-40,000 intervals.

 

I guess they can't both be right....!

 

Well, I like the car too much so it is going to get rebuilt.  Will keep you all updated.

I have a question guys. ..

....

...

..

.

Does my 2.5 v6 tdi automatic

Need a new oil change

.

My local gearbox specialist said..: on your 5 speed auto you can only change oil and to change filter you got to get the box off so becomes more expensive

Do I change oil and filter ?

Gearbox doesn't come out for fluid + filter.  The pan has to come off to change filter though.

If the specialist thinks the gearbox comes out they can't be very specialist!

Then again, looks like my gearbox is now coming out... :(

 

My car had 95K miles, never changed and now I think about it I once tried reversing up a steep hill and had a little bit of slip, so probably already worn.  With the new fluid though it is much worse than before, and barely useable in reverse sometimes.  Hence the impending rebuild.

Thanks, I dread to think what that would cost though - probably better to scrap the car...  It is only worth 4-4.5K working, the rebuilt will be £1500.

 

Doesn't fill you with confidence when the likes of Sussex Autos are still peddling on their site that these are all "filled for life"

 

http://www.sussexautos.co.uk/zf-transmissions.php

• All ZF transmissions are filled for life

What a can of worms huh.  

 

Well, it's all about spending the money once.. I spent close to 2.5k and it was never right, I got fed up and sold the car with the fault, then I found out he had to get it rebuilt again buy someone else..

D & E clutch borked... hopefully getting it back around Wednesday time, yay!

D & E clutch borked... hopefully getting it back around Wednesday time, yay!

 What was the outcome Jim?

 

Gaz

Got it back a couple of days ago - basically so far so good - all forward / reverse gears fine and reverse seems turbocharged now by comparison (was barely working before, especially up shallow hills like my drive) - the only thing I've noticed which I'm sure wasn't there before is a small jerk / audbile clunk when decelerating to a stop - seems to be exclusively as it transitions from 2nd to 1st.  I see 1st is the only gear with a freewheel mechanism according to the self-study guide for the gearbox - whatever that means (I think it is the thing that gives an engine braking effect).

 

Due back for a checkup at some point next week so shall see.  I see a few people complaining about this kind of jerk on other cars with ZF 5HP-19, with a variety of responses - from there's nothing wrong with it to valve body needing work.

 

Anyone else noticed something similar on their autobox?

Yep, I have that clunk.  Only notices when cold and as I slow for the junction at the end of my road (about 1/4 mile) and is only from 2nd to 1st, as you've noted. Doesn't happen at any other time.

 

Gaz

Interestingly it seems to be doing it less now than before.  They did say that the ECU has to re-adapt to the box, though I figured that kind of thing should really be almost instant as this box doesn't exactly have a ton of sensors - anyone know how the adaptation works?  Anyhow, they ask for you to come back after 1,000 miles to check the operation and make sure there aren't any leaks etc so I'll mention it then.