Removing ignition coils

[Naths vRS]

This tool to remove the coils:  http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hazet-1849-7-Ignition-Coil-Remover/dp/B001C9ZC2O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416999331&sr=8-2&keywords=ignition+coil+remover

 

This tool to remove the spark plugs: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Factorykiss-T-handle-Universal-Ignition-Remover/dp/B00EE8618E/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416999331&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=ignition+coil+remover

[Ootohere]

You will get a Ignition Coil remover for more like £12-15.  

So do not pay anything like that.

 

http://awesomegti.com

'tools'

Edited 26 November, 2014 by goneoffSKi

[Ant-Vrs]

You will get a Ignition Coil remover for more like £12-15.  

So do not pay anything like that.

 

http://awesomegti.com

'tools'

where from at that price?

[Ootohere]

Did you open the link to Awesome GTI,  go to tools, & see it for £11.99  ?  maybe some P&P.

[Ant-Vrs]

I've just found a draper one for £9.68 plus postage

[chrismaidstone]

Right, coil removal tool is on its way. The spark plugs should come out with a normal deep socket right? I have a socket set at home so no need for the special tool to remove spark plugs?

[Ootohere]

It needs to be a thin wall plug remover/socket.

 

I use a length of rubber pipe/hose to take out the spark plugs and to put the new ones in,

making sure that they are not cross threaded.

The pipe does just fine for me.

Edited 26 November, 2014 by goneoffSKi

[chrismaidstone]

Is there any specific diameter for the pipe, or is a bit of standard hose fine? Will prob be attempting this at the weekend or early part of next week so will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the help so far. Also what is the correct gapping for the plugs?

Edited 26 November, 2014 by chrismaidstone

[Ootohere]

I just use what fits over the top of a spark plug, (Rubber Pipe as in the Poorly taken picture.)

most will just have a plug spanner that holds (grips) the plug.

I like to know i am threading on a Spark Plug finger tight and not Cross Threaded.

[PaddyVRS]

I just use what fits over the top of a spark plug, (Rubber Pipe as in the Poorly taken picture.)

most will just have a plug spanner that holds (grips) the plug.

I like to know i am threading on a Spark Plug finger tight and not Cross Threaded.

I always try and use the plug socket on an extension just turning it with my fingers to make sure the plug is in straight. Although with a decent plug socket with the rubber grip inside its such a narrow tube that unless the plug is hanging out loose it will be hard to cross thread it! 

 

Oh and it is possible to use coat hanger wire to make a tool    although it does involve a lot of cursing and sore fingers! 

[Ootohere]

We can all do things correctly.

But it never amazes me how often it goes wrong, and that gets expensive,

or someone just pretends it never happened until someone discovers it did.

[Jabozuma]

It looks like need to do a proper guide on plugs removal and compression testing while you at it.

George made a very important point, make sure you use a thin walled 16mm spark plug removal tool. If you start using a regular one you will risk it getting stuck in the tunnel and you will be in a world of $hite...

No point in putting new coil packs without fitting brand new plugs. Fouled/damaged plugs will destroy coil pack very quickly.

Plug and coil pack #1 are very easy to remove, two bolts need removing and one pipe unplugging and hey presto.

I made my own coil pack removal tool with a little help of my trusty welder

[chrismaidstone]

I checked my socket set, I have a 16mm one specifically for spark plug removal. Tool and plugs should be here by the weekend so new plugs should be in by early next week.

[Jabozuma]

I checked my socket set, I have a 16mm one specifically for spark plug removal. Tool and plugs should be here by the weekend so new plugs should be in by early next week.

It has to be thin walled one otherwise it will get stuck

[chrismaidstone]

Also I was wondering, what is the correct gap for the plugs? I haven't had any re map done it's just standard engine.

[Jabozuma]

0.75-0.8mm is OK, you may want to try bigger gap (0.9-1.0mm)for better fuel consumption but will be risking misfires at high revs.

[chrismaidstone]

Have changed all the plugs and all went fine. I still have the revs dropping when idling, both on normal drive and sport mode. Seems ok while driving but when idling the revs seem to drop off and the car sounds like it is struggling to keep running. This isn't constantly while idling, sometimes it settles and runs smoothly like i would expect it to then revs fluctuate again as engine sounds like its struggling to stay running. Is it time to check coils or should I maybe get it hooked up to VCDS and see what that comes up with? have also put some redex in the fuel to see if this might help.

[chrismaidstone]

I also have pictures of the plugs i removed but don't know how to post pics on here (sorry I'm a newbie) 

[Ootohere]

When you start the car, it should go to 1,100 rpm and then drop to 800 in under 40 seconds.

Normal starting normal UK type temperatures.

 

I would not put Redex or any other additives in the tank.

 

Maybe best get the car on the Diagnostics,

& have the latest Skoda Software Update (ECU),  that should be done at a Dealership Service anyway.

[chrismaidstone]

Ok, its due a service in about 2k miles any way and where I'm working at the moment, that won't take too long to do. 

 

I will try and find someone local with diagnostics before i go to dealer as id like to see for myself before i take it in.

 

The revs do start like that when I start the car but while ticking over they start dropping off below 800 and then the engine seems to rev itself back up to 1000 then drops again, its like I'm revving it gently but without me touching the throttle. The car sounds like it will cut out, it definitely drops below 800 revs then the engine seems to rev slightly to get itself back on track, its kind of juddery. 

 

Thanks for the tip about the pipe for the plugs as well, worked great.

Edited 1 December, 2014 by chrismaidstone

[Ootohere]

EDIT< PS.

Does it have a nice clean Air Filter in>

 

Do you run it on 99 ron petrol.

If not maybe try it. 

 

Not the best thing to sit with them ticking over,

they are running rich, and the plugs can soot up or oil up, and then go nice and clean after a roasting.

 

Some people have high oil usage because the car never properly gets up to temp on short runs.

Which is why many like to boot it at least once every trip,

and sometimes a bit before parking up.

They do benefit from being given some welly regularly.

Blow the soot out of the exhaust system.

Edited 1 December, 2014 by goneoffSKi

[tattyjay]

Have you tried one of those ODB II adapters and phone app to see if it's giving out any codes? I do however, wonder if these work as tried yesterday and didn't find anything on mine but maybe there isn't any.

[chrismaidstone]

Not 100% about the air filter, will have to check. I will give it a bit of welly every journey now, but i tend to most of the time any way.

 

Not sure what it ran on before i bought it but i did run on normal unleaded for a little while as someone told me it doesn't really make a difference. I will be using vpower or momentum 99 from now on.

 

I don't sit with it ticking over a lot but I notice it when i am sitting in traffic and engine and oil are up to temperature. It does use a fair bit of oil tho. 

 

Thanks for the help, will try and get it on a diagnostic at some point, will also definitely check the air filter.

[chrismaidstone]

Have you tried one of those ODB II adapters and phone app to see if it's giving out any codes? I do however, wonder if these work as tried yesterday and didn't find anything on mine but maybe there isn't any.

 

Where do you get them, and do they work as well as normal VCDS?

[tattyjay]

Got mine off Amazon, I think most are android comparable so take this into consideration if you have iPhone. Luckily I had android table. Maybe there are others who can comment on if it works?