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I decided to get up early this morning and head off for a drive. We're lucky that there are some amazing roads round here and that on a Sunday morning the only real traffic on the roads is the occasional sheep or pheasant. The route is about 74 miles and goes from Scarborough up to Whitby, over the tops and then down to Danby, Castleton, Blakey Ridge and back home to Scarborough via Pickering. I also took a few photos along the way as it seemed like a good idea at the time. The car performed brilliantly and even returned nearly 37mpg despite the occasional use of the right foot. It's been ages since I used the car for anything other than going to work and back so I'm glad i made the effort.

No rust on back wheel arches and rear door in Finland? Did they keep it in the living room?

Many thanks to all who replied to offer their opinions and experience. I read them all and, as a new poster, now appreciate this BRISKODA forum's deep knowledge. On reflection, I shall save my money and not do this early oil/filter change. The Skoda 2-year fixed price service plan will be used and I shall drive the car sensibly and not stressed/trashed in the first few months. After two weeks of ownership, I have only covered 290 miles. Thanks again for all your comments. Clive

Head up the exhaust has now been fitted ! Will give you a sound difference Monday if okay 😀

Here is a quick guide on how to remove and install the rear make and model badges / Emblems. What you need Adhesive Remover (Autoglym Tar Remover , WD40 etc) Trim removal tool or dental floss Microfiber Cloth Tape (Electrical or Masking tape) New badges / Emblems (Rapid in Black Magic and Skoda in Black Magic) or lesser quality but cheaper (Ebay Acrylic Skoda Emblem and eBay Acrylic Black Rapid) Step one Make sure the working area is clean as possible. No need to wash the car completely down, but give the area a quick wash with soapy water and rinse with clean water. Ensure the working area is completely dry before going any further and out of the elements / weather. Step two Using the masking tape or electrical tape, mark the area around the badge as close as possible. This will help when installing the new badges. If you're just removing the badges completely then there is no need to carry out this step. Step three There are a couple of ways this step can be done so pick which one you prefer. First, using dental floss (this is a favorite) in a sawing motion from top to bottom. Draw the floss through the adhesive backing until each individual letter becomes lose. This method will prevent any undue damage to the paintwork but can be time consuming. Second method is what i used. Using plastic trim removal tools, use the most appropriate tool and push it in behind the lettering. Ensuring to not use to much force, lever the letters away from the body of the vehicle. You may need to adjust the position of the tool around the same letter to lever sections off at a time. This is quicker but could cause damage to the paintwork if you're not careful. The final way is risky but is lots quicker and less messy if you do it right. Using a heat gun or hair drier, apply heat to an individual letter at a time to reduce the effectiveness of the adhesive. As it heats up the letter will become lose and can simply be pulled away from the body. Be careful as applying to much heat in one area could cause the paint to burn or burn the adhesive onto the paint leaving unsightly marks. If you use a hair drier the risks of burning the paint is much lower but will take a lot longer for the lettering to become lose and can still leave a lot of residue behind. Step Four You need to remove the left over adhesive. To do this, use the adhesive remove and apply small quantities either to a microfiber cloth if you have a bottle of the stuff or spray directly onto the adhesive remains if it comes in a spray bottle. Allow a few minutes for the adhesive remover to do its work and then using a microfiber cloth to rub the remaining adhesive away. You may need to use a plastic spatula to help remove some of the more stubborn material or just your nails if you're careful. The area behind the emblems will have residual road grime, this is nothing to worry about and can be removed, so be sure to give the area a good clean before moving on. Step Five If you're removing the badges / emblems completely then you can now remove the tape and you're done! If you're adding alternative badges / emblems then you need to give the area a clean down with some clean water to that no adhesive remover remains. This will give a good surface for the new adhesive to adhere too. Peel the backing paper off from the new emblems. DO NOT REMOVE THE CLEAR FRONT! This is what holds the letters equally apart and remains on until later. You'll then need to line up the new badge within the edges of the tape that you put on earlier. Be careful to hold the badge / emblem away from the body as it is extremely sticky and will grab immediately. (I can assure you that although the car is dirty, the working area was clean in this picture) Once lined up press the badge onto the body, ensuring to press all parts of the letters and not just the center area to ensure the adhesive has grab entirely. With this done you can now remove the clear front and all the tape. I would advise not washing for at least 24hrs to give the adhesive enough to fix itself. Now repeat on the alternative side.

I already have a Top Box but I need a little more space so I am looking to remove the rear seats. The car is the Fabia Monte Carlo Estate 1L 2019 I have had the Yeti and this presented no problem, but the Monte seats don't fold down flat. I have camping gear that fitted perfectly but thanks to Covid I need a separate shower tent and a bigger porta potti! hence the need to remove the rear seat or perhaps just the backs. I'm getting on a bit so talk slowly

I have been wanting to get the proper reverse mirror dip working for a while. Not the dip a tiny amount and vaguely return to the original position version I had.When I fitted the folding mirrors, I did upgrade to the high line door controllers, but that wasn't enough. I needed the Memory Mirror Motor (part 3D0 959 578 C). I managed to get one from ebay, but it didn't come with any wires. So following https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6960609-Mirror-tilt-possible-without-memory-seats-Possible-DIY/page2 I cut down a larger connector to fit. Also note in the thread about the pin numbers. They aren't what you would expect. Pin out 7 5 3 1 8 6 2 4 is the blank. Now all i needed was the pins numbers for the door controller plug. @SashaGrace pointed me to this thread which had the door controller pin numbers I enabled the reverse mirror dip with VCDS and found that with the motor I had bought, horizontal and vertial were the wrong way round, so had to swap all the horizontal / vertical wires round. So I ended up with Door Controller Memory Motor 4 5 5 6 7 2 8 8 13 7 14 1 16 3 And after all that, my vertical is the wrong way round, just like for @Trust2k. So my pin numbers may be specific to the variant of the motor I have and for someone else might be slightly different. But wanted to have a post with all this in one place, rather than dotted around. All in all rather have the working reverse mirror dip. It really does work properly. Just really, really wish VW, Skoda, Seat etc were consistent with their parts, as even when a part has the right part number it might still be wrong because it came from the wrong make. Moral of the story, I suspect, is buy the unit from aliexpress that is marked for skoda. A lot less hassle I suspect. I will update this if I ever get my up and down to be the right way round.

Lady E- I've found what I think is problem. I had another TP LINK I had sitting spare -Same model. Possibly coincidence with W10 updates arriving at same time as old dongle going faulty. Changed them over and problem has stopped. No more problems with resets. I've tried the old one back in and problem reappeared. Problem with this dongle had sort of put me of TPLINK, especially as I've had no response from TP Link . I've spotted a couple of PCIe /PCIe2.0 / ones on PC world at roughly same price , Tenda as a PCIe2.0, other TPLINK just PCIe - both with 3 year warranty, so I might keep the dongle as a JIC and try the TENDA . Next Q for the wise . The cheaper one ( Tenda) is 2.0 whereas the TPLINK one is just PCIe.

Can’t say fairer than that, good result. 👍

I filed out the 1/2" square hole on mine to fit a long allen bit through the socket. Either that or some mole grops on the allen key works great

Actually got to drive it . Client meetings, c70 mile round trips. I have to say I'm really impressed by how the car has handled lockdown. Driven on average 12 miles a week for 3 months, yet no flat battery (KESSY door opening stopped working a couple of times but there was never a hint that it wouldn't start). No error messages, no problems. 56mpg average on what may well still have been winter diesel. Filled it for the first time since early March earlier today. COVID (and the resultant lack of mileage) means I will be keeping the Superb at least another year. I'm delighted at the prospect 👍.

Not been for 17 years and the weather that August was fantastic 27C all week. Great beaches and nice walks with the odd pint consumed of course. Can't wait it will be 10 months since our last holiday last November.

Nah, it's just a difference of opinion. I tend to believe the manufacturer's documentation rather than what I read on an internet forum (even though VW do have a bit of a reputation for being economical with the truth 😉 ). Incidentally, here on the VW website is the VW news release from 2012 about the EA211 TSI engine : https://www.volkswagen-newsroom.com/en/the-new-golf-das-auto-international-driving-presentation-2797/the-new-golf-powertrain-structure-engines-and-gearboxes-2835 About half way down it says "the camshafts are not driven by chain here, rather by a single-stage, low-friction toothed belt design with a 20 mm wide belt and load-reducing profiled belt wheels. Thanks to its high-end material specification, this toothed belt's service life reliably spans the entire life of the vehicle." I guess that's what is meant by 'maintenance free' in the VW service training literature.

A 21mm spark plug socket works brilliantly for the strut damper top nut because you can use a spanner on the flats of the socket and insert an allen key down the middle to hold the rod.

It seems that it's a sad fact of car ownership that aftersales support is often a dissapointment as the car gets older. Its all about sales really hence the shiny show rooms that cost the earth. But don't be disheartened by it. All cars get niggles and bits that arent quite as the should as they age. My old SEAT didnt look great after 185000 miles but mechanically it let me down just once in all those miles. The passenger door wouldnt open from the inside, neither did the window work, but it was mine and i still liked to drive every day. Just find a good independent garage and let them take care of it and you.

Yep, 340 ish miles per tank sounds about right. I don’t look at miles per tank or mpg too often, but yesterday’s cruise from North Somerset to Leics. was probably as good as it will get economy wise, so thought I’d check and grab a pic. 32.7 on the way back this morning including some fun in Sport on the Somerset B roads on the last stretch. Have relatives in Newquay. Decent spot with lots of gorgeous beaches / scenery nearby. Enjoy it when you get there.

and don't forget the fake exhaust sound too... 🤢🤮!! we are victims of European regulations to lower emissions, as if the cause of the pollution were cars 🤦‍♂️. Sorry for the off topic, I stop it here.

Ah right. My apologies! Quite new to this forum as well. It's a great source of info

1.4TSI will be DQ200 dry clutch that has no service schedule, so unlikely to find anything in the history for it

The section should be correct. Ibiza 6j is the same generation as mk2 fabia and engine is the same as vrs. Maybe an admin can move my post to a more suitable thread or a new thread ? Thanks

@Scot5, Calm down mate, I'm just linking to the official Skoda maintenance manual - from the manufacturer. There is a screenshot of the 2017 version here about 2/3 of the way down, which says the same (though it's just a screengrab, I can't vouch for whether it's genuine or not....I guess someone could have just fabricated it all😉) As I said above, I'm not judging whether right or wrong, just linking to a copy of the Skoda maintenance manual. Rather than writing a diatribe that may or may not be copied from various unknown sources (certainly some of what you posted appears a bit 'iffy' 😉), are you able to link to some Skoda documentation or dealer website or anything at all that says something different to their maintenance manual? I am interested particularly and specifically about the EA211 engine, requirements for which are clearly different to diesels and larger petrols.

Hi there. Don't think there would be any issues with starting your own thread as you have a different car to mine. I posted this under the Skoda Fabia MK2 forum. Your query may get more views if it's posted in the relevant section. All the best

I've used the points mentioned for front (axle stands) after getting the car jacked up via front sill jack points. For the rears I again jack at the rear sill point and do use that cross beam but at the very outer edges I place the stands, it seems strong enough no flex.

The new Porsche Turbo 911 S has 420mm front and 390mm rear discs. That's approximately 14.5" front and 13.5" rear discs.

I know, I don’t get it. I mean, how would you even get a 17” disc plus brake setup behind an 18” wheel?!?

You need diagnostics unfortunately. You initiate the basic settings on the lights which resets the position, you then manually adjust the lights, tell the car it's done and it saves the new position as the starting point.

Sadly no replies here yet for you; I too have failed to find a good photo of the underside of a Rapid to help you. The front is straightforward; behind the front wheel an in about a foot or more are some solid structures connecting the body to the engine subframe. These solid structures will take the weight of the front end. The back end is a little trickier. It's tempting to use the central tube / bar connecting both sides, but you run the risk of permanently deforming it. Here I would get under the base of the spring; preferably with a wooden pad or rubber puck. If you're not happy with that, then use the central tube right up against the end.

Thanks for the answer I want to wire exactly like "JohnnyType2" did it. From the multimedia in the glove box to DSP with 18 gauge 9 conductor Audio cable -> from DSP to the amp with RCA cables -> then to the speakers (here I have 2 options) 1) go to the original wires in the glove box back to the speakers 2) wire to the speakers directly Thanks again

Do you have auto dimming mirrors? Can you set the drop? Cars with auto dimming mirrors often came with memory motors in them even without the seats. One of the strange option combo’s these cars came with.

Picked up a second hand 1.4 Sportline in Business Grey, DSH 4x4 with base spec.

If you have the cash or loan arranged, it's a shame that you can't find a 2+ year old car from a private seller, as dealers offer really low prices on PX. Have you tried putting a wanted advert on this site? Having had a manual mapped 220, it was far more engaging and quicker than my 245 7 spd DSG Golf PP with VAQ diff. The only issue as discussed many times on this forum, regardless of whether the car has a VAQ diff or not, is simply putting the power down from a standing start in anything other than dry conditions. Even rolling traction can sometimes be an issue, regardless of rubber. Good luck with your purchase, Octavias are great cars, probably a bit less refined re sound insulation with more road surface noise than your BMW but they offer great value for money and I really enjoyed having one.

I bought my second superb today. the sexy black Elegance estate.. its very nice.. Next week I will get it licensed and plated as a cab and then I will have to let my older Greenline go... Bless her, she has been a good cab and has now got 276 500 miles on her and still runs like a swiss watch, one of my colleagues is having her and I expect he will get the old lady up to 400k..

Amazing what the 3.3 V6 Twin-Turbo can do when on a run. Quick trip to your neck of the woods Shy. First time I have seen my folks since December. Thankfully well outside the new Leicester lockdown zone!

I just thought the hidden exhausts were a shame on the 220 as it’s pretty damn fast. Equivalent Audi and even Seat have visible tailpipes, not sure what Skoda we’re thinking. The 280 tips are only available with the back boxes and they’re £699 each. At least I used VAG tips, I tried lol

That really depends how far you want to take things. If you're happy with the car and just want a bit more poke from a remap and a set of wheels you like, it's fine. If you're planning for it to be the base of a 'modified car' and something to throw money at with intakes, exhausts, suspension etc. as well, then you'd probably be better off starting with something more performance oriented - if nothing else you start on a better footing in terms of general setup, looks and accessories. It's all relative though - there are plenty of people out there who would question why someone bothers throwing money at a vRS when they could go and buy an S4. There would be someone who would question those people as to why they threw money at an S4 when they could buy an RS6 etc. etc. - You get the picture. For some people the enjoyment is in the modification and personalisation, rather than the end result which may or may not be cost effective compared to buying a better car to start with.

Just to let you know, unfortunately this won’t work. The standard mirror motors on the Octy have 3 pins in them, one for left/right, one for up/down and one for ground. No memory function. To make this work you need the 7 pin motor with directional control memory. I am building one now for someone and I have one in my car. This is the only way to get this to work as the standard hardware isn’t there for it on these cars. It’ll dip just with coding but it has no way to be set or remember the previous position. 7 pin motors aren’t expensive and I can provide a WD and pin layout.

This is the latest software I know for your unit, no official updates available.

Note VW have changed their servers so anything that gives a direct link to the files has changed what was http://vw-mapscdn.tdd.adacorcdn.com/ is now https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/ That's a cut and paste. if you click on a link with the old url you need the new url if it's a standard MIB2 map... . eg. http://vw-mapscdn.tdd.adacorcdn.com/DiscoverMedia2_EU_AS_1430_V12.7z is now https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU_AS_1430_V12.7z etc. Seems to be good correction for the standard VW MIB2 links. The high ones they have played about with the end of the text. So a bit of editing to the top of the thread is required at this point.

Hi All Good news, bonnet open after about 15 minutes of trying. Not quite sure what solved the problem. After opening the internal bonnet release half a dozen times & closing the bonnet, it appeared that there was more movement in the external bonnet release lever. I continued to manipulate the lever under the bonnet, each time gaining slightly more movement which enabled me to open the bonnet. The problem appeared to be there is only just enough travel of the bonnet catch to free the retaining hook. I greased up the mechanism hopefully preventing the same problem in the future. I hope this makes sense. Thanks to all concerned.

For Petrol 1.2/1.4 Tsi, the workshop manual clearly states inspect at 240K km and every 30K km after. No replacement times/years listed. The waterpump is separate to the cambelt, at the other end of the engine, with a separate belt - same inspection interval. For all diesels, belt should be changed at 210K km. For larger petrols, the manual is not clear...but could be interpreted as change at 120K km. Is there any documentation from Skoda that says otherwise? What salespeople in Skoda dealerships 'recommend' is another issue...

I'm puzzled what the conditions are in the UK that (in the opinion of Skoda UK) reduce the life of the cambelt?

Or look under the boot floor and discover an extra 6 inches? TBH I've gone right off Fully Charged since Johnny wotisname (Car pervert on YouTube) left - poorly researched, dumbed down and some of it plain crap. I unsubscribed to the channel a month or so ago.

shere-khan by geof worrall, on Flickr down in the jungle swinging on a rope...along came a tiger...no joke ranthambore tiger reserve...india...this one is stalking sika deer right across our path...we are in an open jeep we stop i tell the driver...keep the engine running,walla he says t'kai sahib

Oh that's embarassing if the delay was your payment issue 🤐

Had it valeted yesterday including engine bay. Would normally do it myself but struggling to find the time lately. Today, trip to Birmingham to get our Multimac 3 seater child seat installed in preparation for baby #3. Amazing product that allows you to get 3 kids across the middle of the car, which is normally pretty difficult due to the size of kids car seats (there's also a 4 seater version). Also on the round trip journey, I achieved 41.4 avg mpg round trip (6.82l/100km). Not bad for a thirsty 2L (220ps sportline).

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What’s the purpose of that? Ridiculous idea. I used to tilt my mk2’s seat bases forward to vacuum underneath. My 66 Polo was the same, none of these disposable clips. Also was heated rear seat ever an option?

Word of warning. If you remove the bottom seats. You will need a full set of new clips. They brake/snap when you remove the seat.

Just realised that I hadn't posted the photos after the obligatory lockdown detailing session! Enjoy 😎

New to superb owner ship, pick my (new to me) car up Friday. Its a 2012 2.0tdi 140cr elegance with dsg box. Seems to have been very well cared for and in great condition, well apart from the diamond cut wheels having surface corrosion. Has fully up to date stamped service book from skoda main dealer. Wonder if the previous owner is on here. As it seems to have been kept by an enthusiast. Hopefully was a good reason why they part exchanged it to the skoda dealer haha.o Reg: YY62FXA