dohnjoe

the cap of the expansion tank has a valve that sometimes fails. you can replace the cap or use the Czech solution (see below)

I tested adurer's schematics in Proteus software (http://www.labcenter.com/index.cfm) and it works flawlessly first I created the schematics in ISIS like so: then I simulated the circuit using 12V pulses as input. the output has 5V amplitude and half of the input frequency. I checked also the stability of 5V power source when battery voltage varies in 9-15V interval. all is OK. I even tried non-square signals as input; the circuit is unaffected.

that looks an easy and elegant solution . do I need mandatory the 7805 to get 5V? can't I use a resistive divider?

'under'heating is bad too for fuel economy. ICEs are designed to perform best at 90 C. so I wouldn't be so satisfied running the engine most of the time at 75 C.

do you have a photo of the flywheel with machined timing triggers? I don't know what to look for.

thanks for reply. I will check at Luminition in a moment of inspiration I took also the crankshaft sensor from the donor car it fits into the gearbox bell housing. can it help me in any way?

hi I have bought a dash panel insert (DPI) from a '96 Felicia GLX with Mono-Motronic engine management system. I am planning to replace my existing DPI ('97 Felicia LX, carburettor) that has an electro-mechanic clock. the only problem is that I don't know what voltage and duty cycle must have the input signal for tachometer. I know that the donor car feeds a signal from ECU. my guess is: - amplitude = 5V - shape: square wave - duty cycle: 50^ - one pulse for each engine revolution my first question is: am I right so far? I can get a signal only from the ignition coil (pin 1) but the amplitude is 200V, not square shape, and not 50% duty cycle. my second question is: how can I adapt the signal?

the ignition system?? sounds very radical and complex.

I know one person that had a horrific experience when driving uphill in 5th at 90 km/h. he was traveling with his wife and had half full luggage compartment so not such big load. his gearbox had a constant whine for some time. what happened is the 5th speed gear(s) cracked and the gearbox blew off locking the front wheels in the process... the car hit the guardrail then rolled over on the field. luckily both had safety belts on and only got minor injuries at knees and head. but what a mental shock. so I would say it's a gamble. me personally I'm afraid to say '"that will never happen to me".

arb has nothing to do with his problem.

intermittents are hardest to solve. it can be as easy as ignition switch worn out or as hard as a 'cold' soldering joint in ECU to me it sounds like an electrical problem. I know it's generic but you need to use the no-start situation to your advantage. here is what to do as preliminary measures: - disconnect all electrical connectors you see in engine bay area - spray WD40 in each one of male/female parts and let it do its job for a while then remove excess - reconnect all - go to relay/fuse panel and do the same as above with relays and fuses - if you have new relays for fuel pump and X-relief, replace them in case you have a no start again: - let it sit with key off for a few minutes then key on and listen for fuel pump buzzing - if ok, check for spark when cranking - if ok you need to wiggle wires in turn and crank; some wires may just hanging out by a thread

mate, first of all I'm trying to help you second of all, you had good air flow with the old fan, but noisy. you had the blower case and flaps in front of your eyes so I and everybody else guessed all is fine. and you said you only took out the fan. so really... what other LOGICAL explanation comes to anyone's mind when you put a new fan and don't have good air flow? the new fan blows in reverse. we have seen another member that observed his cooling fan blowing in reverse (due to his faulty installation) after we scratched our heads on his car overheating problem. so instead of bickering try to investigate deeper. jesus, it's a blower, not a SS nuclear missile...

of course, the correct and thorough procedure is to remove the windscreen, deal with rust disaster there that may need welding, for sure fiberglass filling. then use good quality silicone or even better a resin. put the windscreen back, let it cure and bob's your uncle.

different temperature characteristic (resistance of the thermistor(s) inside as a function of temperature)

that is not a switch, it is a sensor. a temperature sensor. and yes, it is different. color coded. put the yellow sensor in place of the blue one. but please don't break it too...

mate, you put 5 members to sweat hard for your hilarious reason next time try not to forget mentioning what prior jobs you did to your car.

this needs a continuation http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/299957-more-power-less-power/

it's very simple. blades are mounted backwards motor spinning backwards or both

changing gearbox oil every 60.000 km or 2 years is often forgotten. but as long as there was the right oil at the right level over time, not changing tl has little or no importance. gears wear out mainly from bad shifting or from putting too much weight/stress on the car normal driving habits keep the gearbox happy. 1) 2) and 3) are correct, but that is not the problem. the noise disappears because the gearbox gets hotter, the metal expands and the play is reduced. no mystery. Felicia's gearbox has a design flaw in 5th speed gears area. there is a spot with bad oiling. all Russian Felicias developed that noise more or less after 100.000 km depending of driving style and load. I will explain the steps of failing: - the bearing that fails first from bad lubrication (dripping style) is this: this needle bearing has a plastic cage. see additional photos below (1) - then 5th speed gears start to worn out from wobbling - finally the outer bearing of input shaft starts to wear. now you know what to change: needle bearing for sure, maybe 5th speed gears, maybe input shaft bearing. I hope this helps.

so you observed the fan airflow direction is wrong after it stopped working? I am already dazzled by the logic but let us know why was it working backwards...

discussed. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/267225-felicia-any-good-mpg-etc/ http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/264841-mpg-of-felicia-13/ http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/124826-best-mpg/ http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/150738-what-mpg-do-you-get/

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/247026-very-strange-gearbox-noise/

all internal combustion engines on all stock cars on the planet are most efficient and run at a nominal temperature of 90 deg. C. temperature gauge needle should stay in the middle.

your thermostat is stuck open. change it or you will waste money on fuel.