Leeboy

Surely then there is no point in the car having a 66+ litre tank in that case. Might as well have 40 litres capacity. I only fill up when I have to. My local supermarket doesn't have petrol and fuel prices around me aren't that competitive. I do around 1500 business miles a month which is works out to be two tankfuls. I'd never top up at motorway services, where you pay 20p extra a litre at motorway service stations so I fuel up when required.

Didn't know Dan had made his mind up to sell on. Perhaps a good thing so you get the chance to carry on his excellent work. Will be following this project closely. Well done for getting stuck straight in. PS just seen the end of Dan's project thread. Onwards and upwards to Dan and the new owner!

Drivers seat is back in the car now. To recap, it looked like this, not pretty: Now looks much better, used a bit of steam to relax the creases out of the leather and have subsequently treated it with some Autoglym leather cream and a top coat of G Techniq leather care stuff. Fabric is pretty clean too now Left to do on the interior is clean passenger and rear seats, clean front door card then look at the boot area.

Yeah, maybe need a professional but in essence you need an abrasive to remove the lifted scratch, then add leather filler before sanding back the filler and applying a matching colour, as said perhaps best left to a professional, otherwise revive the ten year old!!

Is the inlet manifold price Inc postage. If not what do you want on top to post.

Fitted a new carpet

Back to the interior this afternoon. Carpet fitting taking great care not to put any mucky marks on it Looking good: Ended up with two torq screws left over so not sure what I missed, everything feels screwed down securely! Still working on getting the seats clean, black dye from the leather keeps bleeding back into the fabric, so will try my water vac after washing and then hair dryer to remove the moisture before the dye starts to bleed back in. I really need a washer vac but don't have one.

Haven't driven it yet but had a read around on Golf and Seat forums and some claim they are as good as a lsd box for reducing understeer and wheel hop. The race versions is apparently to harsh for the road. I will report back in due course.

No, sorry I mean to say it came out of my old long departed Skoda but I want to put it into my current one which has some after market that's for the bin.

Hi all, Did I read somewhere here that someone was able to decode original head units? The unit in question came out of my original 2002 vrs which I kept hold of but didn't think to keep the radio code. I see I can use a service on eBay for a tenner or so but the only ones I found were Russian and I'd like to use someone in the UK. I can supply serial number off the head unit. Thanks

Done some more today, having had a day off work. Started with stripping out the remaining interior and cleaned plastic bits as I went. Nothing got broken until I dropped the rear ash tray insert on the ground, doh! Part way in: With the aim of getting this in: Didn't fit the new carpet today though as I found a bit of damp in the front passenger underfelt due to a leaky door card. Not too bad and easily fixed. Next it was time to get the front up on axle stands and change track rod ends as the nearside was on the slack side. Got some original Skoda items but miffed they don't come with a new nyloc nut! While looking at steering bits thought it time to fit the poly steering rack bush I picked up from a fellow Briskodian. Bit of a swine to remove the old one and then even worst to fit the poly bush. Got there in the end though. Again while on my back I looked at heat management of the down pipe with some glass fibre heat wrap. I was told to soak it in water first then wrap it in place and it will contract when it dries out so will end up nice and tight. Used a jubilee clip to secure the end of the tape. Two final jobs for the day left: Swap out the engine mounts. I figured that to protect the delicate Relentless manifold I need to reduce engine movement under load so to reduce stress going through the turbo and downpipe. So I invested in a pair of Vibratech fast road mounts. Fitted the gearbox side having first removed the TIP. Got some new stretch bolts from my local dealer. This also gave me the opportunity to stick on a new KO4 Badger 5 oversized TIP in preparation for completion of the mapping. Need to look at some of the piping as I've got a bit of kinking to the oil separator but getting there. Will see if I can get the right hand mount fitted over the weekend along with the carpet.

What's occurring next then? It's not just the oily bits that need attention. The interior is pretty grim so needs a good clean and in the case of the driver's seat, some repair too. I've seen plenty of collapsed seat base bolsters so if you're thinking upholstery repair is for the professional, it's pretty straightforward. So my driver seat looks something like this The leather is still in one piece and it's literally a five minute job to remove the seat from the car. Then remove the plastic shroud and height adjustment lever which then using fingers alone allows you to unpeeled the rim of the seat base fabric off the pressed steel base Once peeled back we can see what the issue is... Probably caught this just in time as the metal has started to rub through the thin under padding of the leather. I'll put a bit of gaffer tape over those wear holes to reinforce it a bit before it goes together. To remove the cover from the foam base entirely is the tricky bit as you need to unhook rods off the wires embedded in the pad foam. It can be done using long nose pliers. New seat bases are available from u our friendly dealers / TPS counter but these days are not cheap. £84 + vat, I'm sure they use to be much cheaper. Part number if interested: While the cover is off, I've given the fabric a good wash clean and now nearly like new. I need to clean the back rest fabric too, treat the leather then reassemble before returning to the car. More to follow!

Yeah, long term stats reset once total travel time reaches 99 hours

Is it worth warming up the connectors GENTLY this will make the plastic a bit more pliable and less prone to cracking. A hair drier on a low setting, not a blow torch for hopefully obvious reasons!

As above, check the integrity of all the rubber pipe work associated with the intake system and emissions stuff. Then prioritise the oil pick up in the sump. You don't want low oil pressure to ruin your engine. Door locks and central locking plus associated bits and pieces like lights on buzzer all functioning as it should?

Best tank full yet for my 1.4 ACT. Furthest I've ever covered on a single tank in any car, although admittedly, this car can swallow the most gas compared with old Mondeos and an Insignia I've had in the past. Was driving very gingerly for the last hundred miles today traveling from Llanelli back towards Wiltshire on the M4 as I was determined to break the 800 mile barrier. Driving to achieve this is boring but a challenge nevertheless.

Checked the oil on my 1.4 tsi at the weekend now that the car has just rolled over to six thousand miles. Yes is used some, about a third to a quarter way from the bottom of the dip stick So think I need to put a drop in to keep it sweet and happy. I'll check out what I can find online at Opie Oils suitable for variable service.

Looking back, wish I really had the 280 motor, but couldn't afford it. Unless something else tempts me nearer the time, maybe I go for a 280 powered Sportline in three years from now when my PCP ends!

Liking this a lot. How sweet does that VTEC sound at 8k approaching the rev limiter?

Sorry to hear this is a real problem in your car. I've got a 1.4 tsi manual which I specced with 17" rims. I don't hear anything untoward although road surfaces can have significant noise variations, take south west section of M25, scoured concrete really bad. If you live anywhere near Salisbury, you're welcome to ride in mine. Must also say I have Canton sound which supposedly has done noise cancellation tech but don't know how much that is just marketing pap rather than actual difference in cabin noise levels.

I like that, imho, black would be too much especially across the wide section over the top of the grille where it meets the expanse of the bonnet!

It went back to normal operation the following day and so far so good!

For my manual, the mirror returns to its usual position when I change into second gear. Not sure what that equates to in a dsg motor.

Driving home this evening, DAB radio on listening to Liverpool match on 5live, then interrupted the commentary answering a phone call through Bluetooth. After the call ended, the radio can back on for a brief second or two and then volume disappeared. Initially I thought the signal had dropped out but after a while I realised it was something more. Neither using the steering wheel buttons nor the touchscreen, I couldn't change station, and although the volume bar would initially respond on maxidot with green segments, no sound would emerge, and later no green bits would appear either. The mute symbol was about the only change I could muster in the screen. All other stuff seemed to work, Sat Nav, car info etc. When I reached home, I turned the ignition off and then restarted and no change. Anyone seen anything like this? Can I reset the unit without VCDS or anything else to try before I soak with the dealer? However it might be fine tomorrow!

Yeah, reading your project thread made me think it's a good idea to look at upgrading the control arm bushes and pattern parts seemed a cheap easy approach, but get the problem that poly bushes may not seat correctly. So what we are saying is that I should poly bush my existing items! The car already has a lsd diff, has some fast road vibra-tech engine mounts to be fitted (poly bushed dogbone mount already fitted), so all should be nice and tight at the front end... Still on standard suspension though but I'm kinda liking that other than it's 12 years old.