Leeboy

I used onlineradiocodes.co.uk Costs about a fiver.

One of these supplied by Turbo Dynamics http://www.hybridturbos.com/shop/audi-turbos/audi-tt-1-8t/md364-stage-3-turbo-audi-s3-tt-leon-cupra/

As above, fairly simple, see here: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/393595-my-dash-cam-fitting

Definitely recheck the cam cover specifically at the gearbox end where the half moon fill in part of the gasket is sited. I changed mine a few months back and it was leaking. I put this down to using a cheap pattern part so replaced it last week with a genuine Skoda part and tightened it down good and proper and it's still leaking despite all being clean and without damage on the faces of the head and cam cover. When asking at the parts counter if there was a need to apply sealant there was no mentions on this on EKTA as an additional item so not sure what's going on. I'm going to remove it, clean and degrease surfaces and then apply a thin layer of Hylomar blue around this area on the cylinder head surface only. I suspect you may have a similar problem.

All links to photos back up now, so here's what I've been up to next. Boot retrim started with new flooring and next was to replace the O/S quarter panel moulding on account of having a busted storage pocket which could not be mended unobtrusively. The replacement had been on back order for sometime and when it did arrive it was broken already so reordered. I also wanted to replace the plastic trim that sits around the tailgate opening as this was fair battered and scratched although may be not show up all that well in the photo. Old side panel and plastic trim removed first. Then replacements fitted. And to finish, new cargo net clipped in! To finish the retrim, just need to sand down and repaint the strengthening braces and refit.

Hmmm, was working earlier in the week? Something up with photobucket!

Here's a log of my 1.4 petrol fill ups since March. Mostly being refilled when less than 50 miles range left. Certainly larger than 66 litres.

Yes, one touch equates to three flashes apparently a legal requirement in Germany when changing lanes on autobahns.

Yellow Peril II went on the rollers today at Jkm Portsmouth. Good chance to catch up with new and old faces. Slightly disappointed with the run to be honest... Thanks though to mushtafa for clearing fault codes and then reading again after the run as the EML reappeared. Turns out that I never plugged back in the inlet manifold temp sensor following fitto the painted manifold the other month. I had pushed the connector in place but just not clicked it home so wasn't obvious. Fault codes cleared again and got it back on the rollers for a second go. This was within 10% of what R-tech mapped it at and torque is about where it should be. Much more like it! Felt good on the way home too.

Yellow Peril II went on Slightly disappointed with the run to be honest... Thanks though to mushtafa for clearing fault codes and then reading again after the run, turns out that I'd never plugged back in the inlet manifold temp sensor following putting the painted manifold on the other month. I had pushed the connector in place but just not clicked it in place so wasn't obvious. Fault codes cleared again and a second go on the rollers and much more like what I was expecting. This was within 10% of what R-tech mapped it at and torque is about where it should be. Felt good on the way home too. Good catch up again.

Problem with running my Octy as a second daily driver is that I forget I don't have one touch indicators for lane changes. So is this still the most appropriate kit available. Reading further it seems some pin changes are required for golf mk4 models so does anyone have knowledge for mk1 octavias? I have tried to search but search function is not particularly friendly on the mobile version. Thanks in anticipation!

Went to cash machine this evening so covered either way. See you in the morning.

Does kate have the card machine working on a Saturday morning out is cash best?

I get the same pooling on my nearside front door. I too have had the door card off and added extra plastic sheet behind the speaker area inside the door to no effect. I have solved the issue by ensuring that the nearside of the car is on the lower side of the camber of my drive way when parked. If I reverse the car in, I get pooling during heavy rain but not if I drive forward onto the drive!

You'll have to let me know next time your going to go up the strip. Had a look at the thread in track day action and looked like a good day out. At some point I'll do some track days in mine but not until it has new suspension and tyres. But for quarter mile runs it should be OK as it is other than it squats down at the rear quite noticeably at present.

Done about a thousand miles now and they have bedded in somewhat coupled with the fact that the downpipe is no longer testing on the heat shield of the steering rack so a lot less NVH through into cabin. The sat nav sit wobbles up and down when stuck to the windscreen mind you! I'm still on old standard suspension so with that being a bit on the soft side it may actually help but I don't get any wheel hop whatsoever which use to be the case with my yellow peril mk1 which ran an lsd and up rated dog bone mount only. Regarding the clean engine, it's still leaking oil but I think this may actually be coming from the cam cover gasket that I changed recently and is running down the back of the block, used a cheap pattern part, but wondered if I needed to add extra sealant where the half moon blanks fill in the end of cam gaps in. The head, the one that came off didn't have any additional sealant. The front of the sump is dry now. So I'm just chasing the last of the leaks at the moment, I will get there though. Might need a front caliper refurbish next as they don't bit particularly quickly.

I purchased a dual oil pressure and temp SPA gauge and today finished the job off having fitted the senders a few weekends back. So as a reminder, the pressure sender used the spare port on the filter assembly take off And the temperature sender was installed using a tapped sump plug Wiring for both senders were passed through the bulk head by putting a slit in the rubber boot that takes the main loom through to the internal fuses and relay packs. I used some tiger seal to make the rubber boot water tight once job was finished Inside the car I removed the lower facia panel to gain access to wiring and pull the gauge harness though. Then first job was to set about identifying an ignition-switched 12v supply off the loom to the light switch using a multi-meter. As it turns out there are a couple of choices. I used a black and white wire which I stripped back a section of insulation and used a choc-block to join this to the power feed for the meter via an in-line mini blade fuse. Earth was wired up to the metal work that holds the dash in place... And as of proof were needed Wiring was then hidden up the side of the dash board I purchased a cheap pod to mount the gauge and then screwed everything back together. A quick test run assured everything worked as intended and once warm oil pressure settled to an acceptable level and would rise appropriately. Another job ticked off. Need a boost gauge now.

Thanks for the offer. I believe my EML is related to an incorrectly positioned lambda sensor giving a delayed reading. I've had the sensor moved now but need the codes clearing. Be good to do this before my run as that will show if the problem is now sorted.

I best go next then. Anyone able to bring VGCS so I can have my logged codes cleared before my run please? 9:00 andsoutham - Fabia vRS 9:15 Hyphons - Citigo 9:30 Niceyellow vrs - mk1 Octavia vrs 9:45 mk4gtiturbo - mk3 Octavia vRS TDI DSG 10:00 HardcoreHobbit - Mk1 Octavia vRS 10:15 Mushtafa - MK1 Octavia vRS 10:30 Updown789 10:45 BJB540 - Mk1 Octavia vRS 11:00 V6TDI MkIII Octavia vRS TSI DSG 11:15 Drewman99 - Audi A3 11:30 Drewman99+1 - Clio 182 11:45 Leeboy - mk 1 Octavia vRS (CK53...) 12:00 12:15 12:30 12:45 13:00 13:15 13:30 13:45 14:00 14:15 14:30

On 14 and a half so far...

Agreed with the above, if you're going this route, then get it done properly with steel welded in. I recall seeing a car one time with the number plate relocated and the recess on the boot lid clearly filled with several tubs of filler because there was a great big crack all the way round where the recess should have been. But done right I think it could look good in the right colour although not with a giant bolt on wing and white tail lights mind! Be good to follow your build of this is the route you go for.

Turbo oil seals? Makes a sense to be smokey on idle and off throttle because oil pressure will naturally drop when the engine is warm. Presumably at higher pressure the oil is forcing seals to be more effective and so doesn't smoke.

Did you have stuff like air con switched on at the time of the test (if indeed your conversion had retained this)? I've read somewhere in the past that extra load on the engine can affect emissions particularly on marginal set ups.

However if you have a vrs, you'll need to remove the engine tray to get access to the drain tap. Probably non vrs Octavias have something similar.

Engine block in the dishwasher , I like your style!