Leeboy

Does HV52... belong to anyone, or indeed is it a WRC edition ? It passed me yesterday while I was out on the pedal bike around 10:40 Sunday morning travelling towards Salisbury along the Porton road in Wiltshire. I spotted it once it was past so only got a view of the rear. It was white and no stickers but reg plate would indicate the right age for a WRC. Like I say it was already past me so I couldn't say if it had xenons, white spider rims etc.

Hey buddy, can you advise if the the electrics level adjustment works for both of the head lamps? And is the price including postage?

That looks very OEM+, is that a Golf item and do you have a part number, I very much like this!

Damn. Checked my work calendar and I've got a 6 weekly departmental meeting already scheduled for that Monday. Guess I'll need to look to later in the year. :(

I saw this Snetterton track day too and thought, "I wonder...?" however, I'm not sure as the car is still on old standard suspension and cheap budget tyres, but at least a track day would take some tread off then. My original yellow peril use to whiz round quite nicely, should I give it a go?

In between dodging showers today I managed to get two cars cleaned and protected. Yellow Octavia with Colinite 476 then gone over with Sonax BSD. Sunroof got G techniq G5 although probably got wet too soon. Anyhow nice beading this evening and after dark. The other car, Superb in magnetic brown got a top up with Sonax BSD. Nice chocolate buttons, mmm!

Ah yes, the simple early wins are always welcome. As oppose to those jobs you think are five or ten minutes tops and half hour later your still wrestling and swearing at the damn thing!

Lots of questions there! I'll start off with your idle question. Before disconnecting the throttle body, take the hose off and have a look if it is particularly grubby first. If not then probably won't solve your problem. Instead my focus would be on the engine breather system. Check all the rubber hoses from the crank case breather and the rocker cover very carefully for splits. These perish and even small holes can cause idling problems. I'll let others answer questions about gearbox and oils etc.

Have a look at the first post here for how to do a fault code scan and see what comes up for starters.

And what was number two?

What he said above..., get hold of a new trim strip for the front bumper, say £30 or so from dealer. And then clean it up as much as possible. What's your interior like? If the whole lot could do with a good clean for the seats, door cards and silver carpet then give it a good going over with a carpet shampoo vac if you have one otherwise hire one for an afternoon. You see so many with grubby interiors so you need to give buyers a reason that marks yours out from the crowd in a good way!

Alternate view though, if you buy a new car for say £5k, then in a couple of years or so it will only be worth what your Octy is worth now. You could quite easily upgrade downpipe, cat and maybe intercooler. Get it mapped and you'll make say 220-230 bhp on the original turbo. The car will remain nice and driveable at that state of tuning. Keeping on top of bodywork would be optional. Certainly sort front wings, keep an eye out for cars being broken on this forum and get hold of a pair of the right colour when they come up, saves any painting. Unless the car falls to bits or it gets written off, you're at the bottom of the depreciation ladder so what you'd spend from your savings or a loan for a new car can be used periodically to keep it mechanically tip top, e.g brakes, wheel bearings, engine breather system, cambelt and water pump, oil pick up, door locks etc. Keeping on top of all this if you're mechanically minded is satisfying and there is so much good information on this forum and on YouTube to help you learn what's what rather than pay out on £50/£60 an hour just for labour at a garage. I've got a 53 plate vRS with 133,000 miles and I prefer driving it over my 2015 Superb despite it having no user tech. I try to do as much of the work on it myself.

I drive a manual 1.4 ACT Superb manual. Kerb weight according to the brochure is 1320Kg. The equivalent 2wd is quoted at 1551 Kg, plus a little less aerodynamic. I find with one up, driving the Superb is a quick enough but doesn't have the torque to quickly accelerate say 60-80 mph for a quickly to nip or into the outside lane on the motorway, although they doesn't stop many a driver doing exactly that and going nowhere quick once they have pulled out. Anyhow back to the topic, if I fill the cat with four adults that will be getting on for the kerb weight of a Kodiaq. In these conditions, the car still progresses well enough but needs more right foot to maintain progress. This typically blunts consumption by easily 5mpg. So by my logic, put four up or even seven up on a 1.4 Kodiaq and you'll be 10mpg down. My Superb had returned just under 50mpg average after 18,000 miles of mostly one up long distance motorway miles. So I reckon it would be fair to suggest that when used as a regular family car around town and for a twice daily commute is going to see you return high 30s mpg, low 40s at most. Spec it with 4wd and lose another 3 to 4 mpg I guess. In saying all that if you only do 6000 miles a year it will work out cheaper than a diesel because of the cheaper initial purchase. And keep it for the long term, then a petrol will be cheaper to maintain.

Brown doesn't look good dirty unfortunately. Doubt I'll get time tomorrow to give it a clean, maybe next weekend instead.

What he said ^^, downpipe which for OEM system includes the cat. Find a 3" downpipe and matching cat but this does probably mean you'll need a reducer to fit the new car to the rest of the existing system.... So you'll end up getting a new cat back system too! This is when mods start getting expensive. Remap Tip and air filter relatively cheap. Upgrading the exhaust system from turbo back £££ plus the intercooler system which is also pretty restrictive in standard form again is £££. When you've done that then the engine can take more fuel so you need bigger injectors and more mapping. Check out R-tech website for their recommendations for KO3S turbo equipped vehicles.

BTW, it's the sensor that sits just behind the throttle body in the inlet manifold casting, just in front of the first port for injector number 1.

If you peel back the inner boot quarter panel carpet lining, difficult because one side you have the storage pocket net and the other side, the cd loader, you'll see the tubes. See here for the offside. It's wrapped in foam to stop it rattling, but lower down where it goes through the floor, you can see the blue tube. You won't therefore see them behind the wheel arch liners. Easiest way to get to them involves removing the rear bumper, otherwise, you should be able to find them from underneath the rear of the car. I've seen on this forum of reports of the plastic moulding where the tubes fit on to around the sunroof can crack and cause leaking ahead of the tubes.

I've a standard manifold for a KO3s turbo already off the car and going spare which I've inspected and appears to be without any cracks or other problems. PM me if you want to know more.

I didn't come back to mine when it when in in mid December. Technician advised that not warranty item for reasons given above and said the calipers had been checked and were functioning correctly. Like you I wasn't happy with this and had the technician look at the car with me and explain why the pads were seemingly not applying even pressure across the face of the disc. The car has done 18k in a year so is not under used. Admittedly I agreed that they were mostly motorway miles but it's not a Citigo, it is marketed as a motorway muncher. The outcome was they took some photos saying they would email them to Skoda UK Technical. That was mid December. Have I heard anything back?

Yep!

Pretty sure it's coming from the cylinder head side of the gasket where the half moon blanking rubber fits into the casting. The cam cover went in a fan oven at 60 degrees so can't see this would have caused distortion. The casting is nice and smooth but the pooling of the oil was clearly apparent when I removed the gasket before trying the sealant as seen here.

Passed and no advisories. Regarding gasket, not possible to pinch it on install so not sure what the problem is.

There was no evidence of any sealant on the gasket when I removed the cam cover originally and likewise from a spare engine I have that I used to pinch the cam cover for painting. However following a longer drive yesterday, it's leaking again :(. Maybe I was too cautious and need to apply it more liberally. Meanwhile it's MOT day....

It does certainly play dvds but not on the go for obvious safety reasons.

There's a service campaign for the windscreen washer defect also. Mine went in before Christmas and I reported poor performance for the driver's side jet. Having a quick look at the technical note, it seems there is a one way valve that gets removed from the tubing and this restores the pressure, or something along those lines. Maybe not a good fan spray like you've adopted but I'm satisfied.