mushtafa

Plan C would be your best bet I reckon

Any more details on the boost gauge? Would you sell separately? Sent with Tapatalk

Loctite won't last long at all on a turbo, don't waste your time Sent with Tapatalk

Trouble is, if I need to replace the whole lot, I'm only gonna be able to afford another cheap eBay set. It is a possibility, I'll have a look through the coilover thread later and see what everyone else is running. Sent with Tapatalk

You would need an adaptor to fit this to the rail. Why would you want one? You don't need one!

Check all your breather pipes, very common problem Sent with Tapatalk

One of my front coilovers is knocking, seems to be the gland seal/bush in the shock. I've had a quick look, can't seem to find individual parts. Even a complete shock assembly would be good. Any ideas? Sent with Tapatalk

If I've got the spare cash I'll come along with a fully charged laptop and VCDS Sent with Tapatalk

Not sure if this helps or not, but I fitted my powerflex top mount bushes this morning. They fit the coilover perfectly, but as others have reported, they seem a little deeper than the stock ones. I had to fit a washer before fitting the top plate bits on. ~3mm. I'll give it a week or two and see if the bushes settle down a little so I can remove the washers again. Sent with Tapatalk

Use something like this, will take about very little time to fit, and cheaper than a sump

That code is not for the sensor, but for the CAT. The ECU measures lambda before and after the cat. If both sensors read the same reading (eg. Broken cat, inefficient cat, missing cat etc), it'll throw the code up. EDIT: What's the fault code?

I always use Tesco 99 stuff. Can't tell the difference between that and V-power. Been using it for years with various cars and never had a problem Sent with Tapatalk

Buy a sump bung repair kit. I have one at work. Basically, if you've got a damaged M16 thread, you put an M17 tap through it and fit an M17 bung and washer. Probably cheaper than a new sump, and a lot easier/quicker to do Sent with Tapatalk

I'd be interested depending on price. $60 seems expensive for a few metal bushes. Sent from Tapatalk 2

Try and hammer a screwdriver or small chisel between the housing and the pipe. Hit is slightly into the pipe, it should split or bend it enough to unseize the o ring/corrosion Sent from Tapatalk 2

Air flow meter has more pins. I would guess reverse light switch myself Sent from Tapatalk 2

From memory the pipe just has an o ring on it, pushes in, and should have a clip going through those slots. I can't see the clip, have you already removed it? The pipe should just pull out Sent from Tapatalk 2

Halogen reverse lights?? You'll blind everyone with them when parking

Remove the glovebox and pull all the wires into the gap. Only 5x 20 torx screws to remove. Job done Sent from Tapatalk 2

99% sure the pcd is different, so won't fit without adaptors Sent from Tapatalk 2

Probably the heater blower motor. I expect the bearings have dried out. You might be able to lubricate them, I've never had one out, so can't be sure

Oh, very nice, shame money is tight this month. :think:

Remove the switch panel from the door, dismantle it, and clean the contacts in the switch. The switches are membrane like remote controls Sent from Tapatalk 2

That light is for pad wear. If the pads are good, fit new warning wires. Nearside front and offside rear Sent from Tapatalk 2

Don't worry, found them http://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Front+Strut+Top+Mount+Bush/2167.html