AlVal

Make & Model: 2016 Skoda Superb 3V SE L Executive 4X4 DSG 280hp Colour: Mileage: 96000 Price: First £9995 gets it, no offers Description: As well as 4-wheel drive, It features the rare option of the EA888.3 engine (CXJA) which outputs 280bhp. 12 Months MOT with no advisories HPI Clear Some minor bodywork chips/dings/alloy scuffs, nothing major. Only for sale due to starting a new role in January which demands a lot more miles, so will go diesel. Private plate will be removed before sale Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: front brakes upgraded 3 months ago to Zimmerman floating discs and carbon ceramic pads (£700) Coil packs, spark plugs, carbon activated pollen filter, air filter, oil filter, oil all changed within the last 5k miles. Timing chain recently done at extensive cost. Haldex filter cleaned, engine was decarboned about 20k miles ago. Extras: <Optional extra's added on at the time of it being built> Mods: The car has been further tuned by Superchips and now outputs 350bhp. It has been dragy verified at 3.9 seconds 0-60 with launch control. Extensive Retrofits of high end original koda equipment taken from updated superb models - heated windscreen heated sports leather steering wheel Predictive Automatic Cruise Control upgraded "MIB2.5" version central screen ("HMI unit") with all features unlocked latest navigation maps android auto Television Blind spot detection Lane Assist Rear bootlid spoiler Facelift Rear Light Clusters with Dynamic Turn Signals upgraded to 19" Skoda alloys 5x of them - full size spare in boot Michelin pilot sport 4s all round, loads of tread, one is brand new last week. Aftermarket dynamic turn signals in the side mirrors aftermarket "Kopacek" front grille in OEM honeycomb design dechromed rear glass lightly tinted (all legally done professionally) Shipping: N/A Collection: Yes from MK46 (Olney, near Milton Keynes/Bedford/Northampton Pictures:

Rob at www.fastlineturbo.co.uk is local to me at Northampton, and Google reviews seemed good, so I had him supply his recommendation of a strengthened IS38(not sure of the technicalities of exactly how its strengthened but he says it should be a lot more reliable and far better equipped to handle the stage 1 map than the factory turbo, of which apparantly the earlier (around 2016?) versions are worse and more prone to failure. Rob at fastline also offered whether I wanted a baffld delete for around £100, which apparantly let's things flow a little easier at the cost of a fraction more noise so I said sure. Apparantly my turbo shat its compressor wheel down into the downpipe, and he said its hard to say just how much damage done to the cat, hard to see down there, and best to replace that downpipe really, so I went for a scorpion downpipe with 100cell8 free flowing cat. Time will tell how long such a cat holds up, apparantly one of the main differences in aftermarket downpipes with cats is how much of the expensive precious metals they coat onto the cat, so cheaper ones might not get through the mot for as many years. Scorpion one is best 'bang for buck' according to vrs Northampton so I went for that (my first option the more expensive bcs had a 5 week lead time also whereas scorpion was in stock). So new stronger turbo and baffle delete (£875), scorpion downpipe (£650), while I was at it found a used ramair turbo inlet elbow which gives a little better airflow on ebay (£56) . I also bought a forge silicone intake pipe off ebay for another £55, but the garage didn't fit it, saying it was crap - too soft and squeezy so likely to collapse under boost. They said the forge one with the hose and turbo elbow all in one is fine if you can get that, but the shorter hose without elbow section is crap. So return that, and maybe I'll get the Apr carbon pipe. Garage labour was £580 + VAT, so I'm around £2300 down. With the improved airflow, the engine light hasn't come on so far, so the stage 1 map is fuelling enough for the moment, although it may well come on and push me to remap again, at which point I may as well throw caution to the wind and do r600 Intake, Wagner intercooler, and the rest of the exhaust system

Would have been within skoda Official used car warranty I'm sure if I hadn't remapped it, but I've triggered the TD1 flag of course, so they'll know. 60k miles or so on it.

Clean the car. especially the front.

wife drains key batteries, and I swear it's because she stuffs car keys into a big handbag full of rubbish which is probably pressing continuously against the buttons...

Cracking Job, a real PITA retrofit that one... Do you understand exactly what's needed on the coding front to code this properly? I can help you there.

It should, if you don't want the big clouds of white smoke behind you that I had this morning..

Started hearing a little whistle from the turbo today, shortly followed by some very big clouds of white smoke behind me...

no, your first aerial locations are correct, not this

Oh, and for clarity, the base functions provided over obdii are mostly around emissions and major fault codes, for long coding, adaptations, you'd need obdeleven, vcds, odis or similar

You could install m. I. B. Toolkit on the headunit if you have mib2 high (columbus) and do it for free direct from there, if you were the type https://github.com/jilleb/mib2-toolbox

I'll message you..

Well I upgraded my radar, replacing it with a used 3qf version that supports pacc, did the component protection myself, and calibrated it myself. Total cost less than 100, plus a lot of my own time learning, thousands if I was paying for my own time 😂. So that's.. possible, if you're determined and a massively interested hobbyist. However in your situation, someone overly keen to avoid insurance can be a bit of a red flag. I fear you sound overly keen to help someone who's causing you grief you don't need or deserve, and that you may be leaving yourself open to being taken advantage of in this situation.

I'm away til 26th but after then am good.

No need for money, if you're local (I'm inbetween Milton keynes/bedford/Northampton) I can try and do yours

The bracket part number I got from etka doesn't look like yours. Have you got a part number for yours by any chance? Yours looks correct, I don't think mine is good..

Select the right module for the bootlid controller (6d), on the list on the right it's 'data transfer', and send the parent xml file (the one called "arbeits"), it will send any children files also

it does?! I removed front door cards recently and don't remember any specific illumination for the door handles (or the door pockets) which some cars have, was thinking about custom fitting some in fact

Yes Thanks, just a couple of things for anyone else attempting this - I looked at etka to see if there were any parts I might be missing, and I thought I needed more parts which I bought but were unneccessary: compatible interior mirror - check if your existing rear view mirror is 3g0 857 511 AD, if its already this one, you won't need to change it 3g0 862 505 camera heater came already fitted as part of the windscreen 4m0 845 543 retaining clip to hold the interior mirror onto the glass, again came as part of the windscreen so I bought unneccessarily the existing rain sensor gets re-used, but to re-use it, my windscreen fitter said 'you need a new gel pack to re-use it, but don't worry I have one', I think it's some gel blob that goes between the sensor and the glass. About to go and figure out how to get access to the firewall grommet to get the thin cables through from bcm and interior fuse box to the engine bay relay. Did you have to remove the battery or anything to get access to get to that grommet?

£10k DQ500 upgrade will keep you relaxed https://tvsengineering.com/en/performance/gearbox-conversions/#dyn-0

door handle illumination? Are the doorcards changed to support this?

Parts 1 and 2 mentioned by Gazz didn't come with terminals on the end - just 'extension wires' I think I'll be needing 2x of his part 4 repair wire with terminals - one for the relay, and the other for use under the scuttle panel, connecting into the windshield positive connectors (part 3 on his list) since I couldn't find a fusebox from a superb with a heated windshield, I also had to buy relay 4h0951253A (I found one on ebay, but could have bought from TPS) conduit sleeve to protect the 0.5mm wires to relay as they route through the engine bay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260898991871 1.0mm striped yellow/red wire (from BCM module to engine bay relay) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253731792838?var=553001605837 1.0mm striped red/yellow wire (from relay to interior fuse box) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253460445066?var=552635944043 000 979 027E 6mm tails for relay plate ( I already used Gazz' part 4 repair wire for the windshield connectors, as I said above, I think he's forgotten to list a second one) 000 979 021E 0.5mm tails with connector pins for relay plate 000 979 424E 6mm tails for fuse with connector pins

For a right hand drive car, any advice (or even better, photos) of places to get through the firewall? On the driver's (right) side , I need to get 2x 1mm CAN wires through in order to connect the newly retrofitted front camera to the front radar, and on the left (passenger) side, I need to run 2x 1mm wires through to the fuse box in the engine bay, 1x from the inside fuse box, and one from the J519 BCM. I'm guessing for the 2x passenger side ones, I'll be trying to follow the existing route from interior fuse box to engine fuse box, on driver's side though? Also any advice on protecting the wires within the engine bay (right type of protective ducting or tape?) appreciated

How can I tell, if the fault code is still there?

Can't get mine to clear, even after replacing the sensor