AlVal

Almost! Just a fraction too small, so need a few mm bigger. Have ordered 55mm plain black, so will see how well that fits.

Fitted the i8 20s on their existing 215/45/20 Bridgestones to see how it feels. Haven't tested properly yet, and need centre caps. Need to drop it a bit so will order the eibachs

Each tyre rated to take that much weight at its max rated speed. Of course should also consider that more of the car's weight may be over the front axle as opposed to back etc, hence my point about axial load. It's well within spec IMHO

Massively good insights, thanks so much for taking the time. I'd never heard of 245 being considered on a 7.5j, I thought the notion of 235 was already extreme, but then I guess a lot of it comes down to how much sidewall you have to play with. The 0.8% difference in front /back Overall Diameter in your suggestion is pretty well within limits of haldex tolerance which I hear quoted as OK up to 3 or 4%. Another beauty about your suggestion is that I can keep the 4x 215/45/20 Potenzas on the rims, taking the 2x off the back and keeping them as spares for the front, uprating the back to 235/40/20, which the Potenzas are available in. But.. I _think_ Your staggered 235 and 215 suggestion doesn't give me much benefit over 225/35 all round (basing just on average tyre widths, its going to get hella technical v quickly if we start getting into contact patches, although happy to listen if you know that stuff well, I don't) and if I go 225 all round, I can stay really close to the original manufacturer specced overall diameter, 0% difference front to back for haldex, and by not staggering I also feel like I'm staying closer to what's known, tried and tested. I guess it comes down to how much I want or need the protection of that extra sidewall 🤔. You know the s3 runs reverse staggered, something about reducing understeer I've heard anecdotally. I'd have to think about how staggering or reverse staggering might affect the handling characteristics on this car Again, great to hear input from people who know what they're talking about 👍

Without breaking it down into individual axial load, 2800kg based on Carlstons latest suggestion above (2x96 rated, 2x95 rated) , 2720kg if I run with the 4x 215/45/20 Potenzas currently on the rims (4x 95 rated), and if I stick with my original plan of 4x 225/35/20s, 2400kg (90 rated). With a full tank, driver and luggage, my car is hitting about 1800kg, so I think load rating is well within reason, even if in some alternative universe I allowed 3x fat chicks in the car.

7J is ET36 and and. 7.5j is et40 which is close enough to perfect for the superb I reckon

If anyone wants my ebay black ones send me a stamped addressed envelope, although I've removed the adhesive from them. See from a distance they looked fine, but up close you can see how the curvature isnt quite right, I think most of the 90mm ones out on the market are probably intended for a different skoda with different curves than the superb. I also noticed Superskoda site stating the wrong size somewhere. Superb 3 is 90mm front and back.

Two of the rims are only 7J, so 235 would be pushing it, hence why I plan on settling on a final 225 width when I can. The rims are staggered 7 and 7.5J but the current tyres are all the same (no idea why they bothered staggering the rims...) I def want to keep same tyres on all 4 for the haldex' sake which really brings it down to 215 or 225 choice. I know the 35 profile will mean care needed around potholes and kerbs, but I'm not the type to ever kerb an alloy, and I accept the main risk for me would be not spotting a pothole in time.

Thanks, I don't plan to stay with 215/45/r20, just establishing whether it's reasonably safe to use up the ones that came on the i8 rims before switching to 225/35/r20 which is a really close match to the original in terms of overall diameter. Cheers for the reminder on bolts, I forgot to check whether I'd need conical bolts

I bought some cheap black ones off ebay, looked good, but the curvature on them was wrong and didn't properly fit the contour of the car. I thought the kopacek (superskoda) price on the badges was crazy, but in retrospect, I'd have said pay more for the kopacek ones, as people here have said they're excellent even if costly.

Just because the rims I bought happen to have some pretty lovely almost new bridgestone potenzas on them in that size, and while my original plan was to pull them off and ebay them, I'm considering whether to just stick them on and wear them out and wait for the next change to switch over to the 225/35/20 that are the fit I'm ultimately needing.

Don't think it should affect haldex much as same overall diameter on all 4, but what about ABS, ESC, and wheel well clearance? I accept the effect on speedo reading (which would probably make it more accurate..)

Who's got lowering springs on their 280ps? Concerned because eibach quite the same part E10-79-012-04-22 for estate and notchback, yet h&r show an estate/kombi 4x4 part yet no part suitable for the 4x4 280ps limo 28784-1 2wd limousine axial load up to 980kg, not 2.0 tdi, not sport or bad road suspension, with ABE* 28784-2 2wd limousine axial load 981kg+, not 2.0 tdi, not sport or bad road suspension, with ABE* 28784-3 2wd limousine 2.0 tdi only, not sport ot bad road suspension, with ABE* 28784-4 4wd estate/kombi axial load up to 980kg, not 2.0 tdi, not sport or bad road suspension, with ABE* 28784-5 4wd estate/kombi axial load 981kg+, not 2.0 tdi, not sport or bad road suspension, with ABE* 28784-6 4wd estate/kombi 2.0 tdi only, not sport ot bad road suspension, with ABE* 28784-7 2wd estate/kombi axial load up to 980kg, not 2.0 tdi, not sport or bad road suspension, with ABE* 28784-8 2wd estate/kombi axial load 981kg+, not 2.0 tdi, not sport or bad road suspension, with ABE* 28784-9 2wd estate/kombi 2.0 tdi only, not sport ot bad road suspension, with ABE*

Many newer bmws have moved to 5x112, although many would have unsuitable rim widths and offsets for most vag applications. Mercedes also. A closer examination of my set shows the rims are staggered so 2 are 7.5j wide 13.6kg and 2 are 7j wide 10kg. I'll have to think long and hard about tyre setup to match the original overall diameter as close as I can. I think I'll run 215s both front and back, which is what's on them now from the seller (albeit too big a sidewall profile at 45). Makes me wonder why they had staggered rims if they just run same tyre size

inner connector inner pins outer connector outer pins 8W0971636 000979009E or N90764701 1K8972928 AMP MCP 1.5K Female Crimp Terminal Contact 1241381-3 so I've figured out these are the correct connectors and pins you'll need on the 'lights' end of the harness. I need help figuring out the connectors on the 'car' side If anyone knows the part number for the female plug in this picture, please help! I know it's the female version of 1j0972928 / 1J0972926, because the male plug on the existing car harness has that stamped on it.

I have an MY2016, which I recently upgraded to 2021 maps, and I don't think I have a front camera. The speed limits show up on my nav, so must be coming from the maps db?

Yes, please get the video back, I opened up my flaps this week too and am curious to compare how yours sounds

I'll post pics when I get it tyres and spigot rings sorted. Standard superb tyres on a 19 rim are 235/40/19. 235/35/20 tyres on the 20 rim will have the same tyre width, and the overall diamater of the wheel will be almost identical (5mm taller, you get that amount of variance by tyre wear alone so it's a perfect fit)

So.. I don't really dig the rim style of the 18s on mine, and the person asking in another thread recently about 20" Audi rims got me thinking - the primary difficulties with 20s are that they're going to be a) heavy b) most likely 9J wide or over, making most of them too wide to be a 'proper' fit for the superb. this extra width is just going to add more unsprung weight again c) pretty hard ride without a thicker tyre sidewall for shock absorption but of course that didn't stop me bored browsing on ebay curious about what fitments would work that people may not have thought of. I struck gold. 20" rims from a BMW i8 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-I8-wheels-and-tyres/193902185264 So the seller doesn't know the rim width, but from my early research it seems maybe 7J or 7.5J, possibly even staggered 7 at the front and 7.5 at the back. Either way is unusually narrow for a 20", but perfect for what I'm thinking - that narrower width will keep the weight down, probably looking to save every gram on an electric car. PCD 5x112.. good! Centre bore 66.5 so some plastic spigot rings won't be a problem Where I read that they're 7J, the offset is quoted as ET36, so that's pretty much a perfect width/offset combination So I win the auction and pick them up today. As I'm collecting them, I'm picking them up, thinking...."these are light... _real_ light..hmm OMG could they be forged?!! it is a high end car..." so I get them home, turns out the summer setup for the i8 is staggered 7j/7.5j and the winter setup is 7.5J all round (et40) - this is a set of 4x 7.5Js - bingo! further research... they are indeed forged!! I paid £280 for an almost immaculate (couple of minor scuffs) forged 20" rims that will be way lighter than my current 18"s. I'll get appropriate size tyres on them, sell off the wrong size nearly new bridgestone potenzas on them, and do a weight comparison when doing the switchover including rims and tyres. I found the spec for the wheels, and in 7J the rim itself is 10kg, and in 7.5J it's 13.6kg. my skoda 18" "zeniths" are according to skoda https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/alloy-wheel-zenith-18-for-superb-iii/p/3V0071498C+HA7 13.7kg each, and would be carrying more rubber weight too. I reckon noones looking at i8 wheels on the used market, as its not a fitment that would work for most likely contender bmws, and most of the vag group folk wouldn't have thought of it, so there's my secret trick for today! check out what the retail on them is... https://www.leebmann24.de/bmw-winterkomplettraeder-turbinenstyling-444-schwarz-glanzgedreht-poliert-20-zoll-rdci-36112349581-36112349582.html Looking forward to getting them fitted

You mean alcohol wipe, wet wipes leave awful smears, just try using one on your car glass or bodywork

By "rework", do you mean the glove box unit can just be firmware updated from mib2 to 2.5 if you have the 2.5 screen?

if I'm only doing a standard up to the latest that my train supports, do I need to worry about 'patching'?

Where did you get the 12v socket usb part from? I want to do exactly that for the rear passengers. Thanks

Do you mean the Alu panels that can be used to divide up the boot space? They're a skoda accessory from the catalogue, and slot into the plastic boot liner tray, so you need the boot liner tray with slots. That's my understanding...

Couldn't be happier. I make sure to wait until the oil temp gets up to at least 80, preferably 90 before giving it any real welly, and give it at least 5 mins of cooldown before turning off the engine, just as good practice for any turbo car really. I find myself manually switching gears to get the best out of it, but that's a reflection of the gearbox, not the map. If you're happy that your engine is in good health, and aren't bothered about getting before/after rolling road printouts, I'm not sure whether you're going to get much/any benefit from the more expensive revo/apr maps. If I can stop blasting money on the car and keep some aside to get a dragy, I'll have some real world data to show, but honestly, unless you're planning on spending more and more on the car including heavily changing the suspension and weight reduction measures (lighter wheels etc) , (and in the course of doing so , losing the refined luxury family car nature of it) the superchips map will give you more power than the handling is designed for, so it's absolutely all you need for the public road. Highly recommended. Already had the satisfaction of easily trolling a real a**hole in a Merc GLE400 who was trying to drive all over me on the road. I haven't tried any launch control launches yet, I'm sort of reluctant to just because I tend to have a fair amount of mechanical sympathy for cars, but I'm sure I'll give it a go soon.