AlVal

I had a batch of 6 made up, happy to give you 2x to do your front and back for what they cost me to get made, (£12 for a pair including postage)

￡10.78 50%OFF | Custom car floor mats for Skoda superb all models car styling car accessories https://a.aliexpress.com/_mN6jdnH

just saw in another post that @Groaver on this forum is putting his L&K 280 up for sale, not sure if it meets your requirements, but there aren't many out there on the used market as you rightly say...

July 2019+ cars have all 4 indicators (inner and outer clusters on left and right) wired back to this pin - some sort of pulse width modulation signal. I wonder whether there's any point in me going to the effort of wiring this if pre-2019 cars have no ability to send out these pwm signals, which I presume are only used for the 'coming home animation' that some retrofitter noticed was missing? if anyone can tell what this pin does (if anything) on pre-2019, please let me know, or whether it's just a pin that coding could 'turn on' to make whatever the function is work? this is not power, the indicators are separately wired for their power to flash them

Let me know how difficult the install is once you do it please!

turned out perfect, really decent image quality, and as @SashaGrace has been mentioning earlier in this thread, comes with all the required te connectors to do a decent job of the wiring around the quadlock connector around the back of the cd drive part of the mib2 headunit. You need to know the procedure for taking apart these connectors, removing pins and adding pins. I can help if you're unsure there. @SashaGrace, my wiring all went fine according to this guide https://www.cars-equipment.com/base/files/shop-attachments/6495308/44280.-kodovanie-6C-Highline-cam.pdf , but I noticed that although all the other pins are really well catered for and considered, the +12v is just 'squashed' into the hole alongside the existing "big" 12v pin, which is a bit of a hack job. the +12v wire came with a similar pin on the end to the rest, and I wonder if the manufacturer of this aliexpress part intended the 12v to be pulled from somewhere else, another pin somewhere? just wondering how you did a clean job on that pin. The can lines came with a really nice proper splice solution.

I I found that the best way to remove the original boot handle/button was to simply remove the bootlid trim first, then there's a big metal hunk, motor or sth in the middle of the trunk, 3x plastic turn screws allow that to be pulled out, then you can just push the original handle out from the inside. at least that's the case for the superb notchback

Retrofitted reversing camera. 50 quid from alibaba, and best part of a day running wiring from back to front and coding it in

I have vcds for coding, let me look up how "involved" the coding is, and I may be able to help there

Has anyone modified their Haldex? Both United Motorsport and Van der Veer have units that allow you to tune the haldex to encourage more regular pushing to AWD https://www.vdveer-engineering.nl/index.php/en/shop/controllers/haldex-controller-gen5-0cq-detail http://unitedmotorsport.net/products/haldex-software/

Should I be worried? https://photos.app.goo.gl/uDXzmiDCJRkCsYHAA

Wrestling with arch liners and front bumper most of the day. Such an effort just to replace the darn grille!

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hmm, so you push down with your knee around where that hook marked '2' is before pulling the bench forward?

After unhooking the front edge upwards and releasing that, mine just don't seem to slide forwards in the direction of the arrow out of the "crash hooks" (yellow bits at the back of seat in image here).

The guide I saw only said it was attached at the front edge of the rear bench. So I've pulled upwards on both sides and released both the catches at the front edge, and I've removed the isofix covers and frames, but it still feels very attached at the mid/rear. Any advice on whether the rear is somehow secured to the vehicle? Is it like the passat in this vid where you have to push back? I've tried that and maybe I'm not being manly enough?... https://youtu.be/nznbielS4IU

Hmm I haven't examined the lower grille. Will take a look. Took hours to plastic weld the mesh to the back of the honeycomb. Araldite glue didn't work well, or maybe I didn't get the mix quite right. Must be really well attached first time, I have no intention of taking the bumper off again to fix it!

Thanks so much guys, extremely helpful. I'm installing black plastic mesh behind the honeycomb one as it feels way too open for stones to hit the radiator. See right side meshed, left not for comparison

Just to confirm size, 90mm front and back

I just got cheap ebay as I only need plain black plastic. Looks like standard skoda should be 50mm inside 55mm outer diameter

Maybe it's best in a separate thread, as this one is about LED stripes?

Mine is arriving today, only way I could get it was to send it to Ireland and havea family member send it over from there, as kopacek are still not shipping larger items to the uk since brexit. Did you ever find a guide? How did you get on fitting it. Is complete front bumper removal necessary? If I can't find a guide, I'll pay for some online time on the skoda workshop system to view the bumper removal guides

Have now finally found the corresponding part to plug into the inner car harness - 3B0 972 732 ￡0.33 19%OFF | 1 Set 4 Pin 3B0 972 732 3B0972732 3B0972722 Car Taillight Plug Auto Electrical Wire Connector Socket For VW Audi https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOAk2EB

One step closer. Well this was ridiculously hard to figure out, but I eventually found another place where this connector is used in an audi seat mechanism, and the corresponding plug it fits into, so I now know the part number needed to plug into the cars harness on the outer side avoiding chopping into it. It's 3C0 972 733. Gotta patiently wait for aliexpress China shipment now. Meanwhile let the hunt begin for the corresponding part on the inner light harness