StevesTruck

It's a questionable practice, but my favourite way of cleaning a coolant system is to throw a dishwasher tablet in. Can you get any live data from the temperature sensors?

To be fair, that sounds more like a flap or control issue than a problem on the cooling circuit. Does your car have 2 zone climate control in the front? My sneaking suspicion would be that one of the cabin or vent temperature sensors is giving spurious readings.

Wow, that's a shifty looking company. Address hidden away in a privacy policy, no nominee details on the domain registration and a director with a string of liquidated companies with very similar names.

Yeah, that's never coming out. I'm guessing they tack welded it to the frame before they put the skin panel on. - Best suggestion would be a rivnut.

There's an old farmer round here has one, the car is more rust than metal, and the private plate on it's probably worth about £20k 🤣

I've just noticed you're in Lincolnshire. Drop me a message if there's anything I can do to help. I live in Alford, work odd days in Lincoln and Grimsby

Petrol or diesel?

Give the cable a really thorough looking at, unplug it, manipulate it about a bit, looking for cracks. It's possible that the wires are starting the break up and it's only showing when the car's moving.

It might have just taken a few goes to do a decent regen, and after that, taken some time to register everything is now ok.

Just a word to the wise, these love to seize up. Give them a good spray a day or two in advance and clean the bolt head up well before trying to remove it. The hole normally goes all the way through on VW group cars, so you can probably get in to spray the thread from the other side as well.

C+R Enterprises in Radford 👍

First things first - have you changed the pollen filter and checked there's no nastiness going off in it's housing? My old employer used to use the Normfest foggers in their vehicles, and it worked well. Personally, I use an ozone generator. Run it for an hour with the air con on recirculating, then knock it off and let it sit overnight before venting the car. Bear in mind the foggers and ozone are both toxic, so you do need to vent the car out.

Cost to insure would be no different, but they probably would try to knock you quite heavily on PAV if it were written off again. Some of the more expensive car history checks (car vertical and the like) will sometimes show pictures from when the car was in the salvage auction. I personally wouldn't buy a repaired car unless the seller was prepared to show me pictures of the original damage, so I can see where repairs have been done and check the quality of them.

Which engine?

Clamp the flexi hoses one at a time, see what it does to the pedal feel. That can help you find which wheel has the issue, or if it's a whole system problem (which would point to the master cylinder). I'm a big fan of pre-filling calipers before connecting them, and using a vacuum bleeder rather than a pressure bleeder.

That's a lot of errors for one system. I'd be checking all fuses, then see if there's any corrosion in the ABS module plug, after that, I'd suspect damage to the wiring loom.

That will normally be linked to the offside front wheel abs sensor, but without the codes, we're just guessing

From memory, it's a coding job on a pre-face lift, bigger job on a facelft.

Did they read the existing fault codes, or just clear them?

The O2 sensor on a 1.2 throwing a fault can be a bit of a bad sign, the rough path of failure is: Timing chain tensioner fails to take up tension quickly when the engine starts. Timing chain skips. Generally does the exhaust valves a bit of damage so they don't seal Shows an ECU fault from the emissions, or gradually kills the O2 sensor. I'm wondering if the chain's skipped a bit the other way making it run lean.

The only real killers of these cars is rust and the timing chain skipping on the 1.2's. If it's ok for these, and you like it, might as well keep it in my opinion. It's that old gamble really, if you bought another £1200 car, there's no saying it's not going to need the same amount of work in the first year. I have a rough rule for buying cheap cars, whatever you spend on the car, put the same aside for anything it needs in the first year, if you don't spend that, you've won. If the garage has got a poor attitude towards your car and doesn't want to work on it, time to find another garage.

From memory, the cat's on the downpipe on these engines, so I'm guessing that's a bit chunk of the bill.

I have used this site a few times and found them to be really helpful and not expensive - onlineradiocodes.co.uk

Sounds that way, I'd imagine the other end is one of the rear quarters, behind the side panels in the boot. Most likely the nearside.

Looks aftermarket, so possibly an amplifier or something. Careful reconnecting it in case the other end is sat against metal somewhere.