Doily

Just for clarity: The air being blown into the cabin is at ambient outside air temp (at all blower speeds) at all temperature settings unless I turn the temperature control knob to the "Hi" setting. On the "Hi" setting the air blown into the cabin goes very quickly to max heat. Sorry for the confusion.

My Climatronic on my Mk2 Fab only blows hot air when I turn the temp knob to the "Hi" position. The blower, AC and the footwell, middle and windscreen functions work as they should. The temp gauge on the dash stays on a constant 90 degrees after the engine warms up and the coolant level is correct in the expansion bottle. Has anyone got any ideas please as to why the blown air is either very hot (when on Hi) or ambient. Thank you very much in advance.

I have a knocking noise in time with road speed (not engine revs) when I'm coasting or slowing down. But only when steering straight ahead. It stops when I turn the steering wheel slightly. Could anyone help me please with suggestions for the cause and/or how to investigate it. Thank you.

The adjuster nut is hidden by the weird shaped casting that supports the arm rest. This is the way I did it, but there may be easier ways: Prise away the trim panel on the passenger side of the arm rest support. Then undo the arm rest pivot screw and remove the arm rest. Undo the screws holding the centre consul. They are under the rubber mats in the front and rear cup holders. This will give the consul enough freedom of movement to access the 4 screws holding down the previously mentioned casting. You'll need a long extension to your wrench, with a universal joint on the end to reach the screws. They are Torx but sorry, I can't remember the size. Then wriggle out the weird casting to reveal the handbrake adjuster nut. I hope this helps.

I've always thought toe in on the rear of my Mk 2 fab could not be adjusted. But I've just been told by a member of staff at the local tyre fitting retailer I often use, that if I paid extra for the car to go back on the ramp again (they had just corrected the front alignment as I requested) they could adjust the rear providing, they said, the bolts aren't seized with rust which, they added, is very common. Was that BS? Thank you. I would appreciate your thoughts.

Thank you, Breezy Pete. I've just ordered it from them.

How do I know which filter is correct for my car? I have a 12 valve, HTP, CGPA, 51kW, June 2011 engine. All the usual online retailers offer a choice of 3 different sizes of non canister filters (it's definitely not a canister type). I live a distance from retailers, so don't want to start oil change without the correct parts. Can anyone help please? TYIA.

Well done for finding the cause. How did you discover the PCV was faulty?

I've never changed any hydraulic fluid on any of the cars I've owned, some with 150k+ on the clock and 20 years old. Never had any issues apart from normal wear and tear on pads and shoes, etc. Have I been lucky?

The source of water in my boot was the rubber flappy "one way" air valves fitted on each side, near tail lights behind bumper. Google says it is a common problem. I managed to squirt sealant along the top edge of each valve without having to remove bumper. That stopped water collecting in boot. Yes. Remove the lights and the top edge of the rubber thingy is visible.

The source of water in my boot was the rubber flappy "one way" air valves fitted on each side, near tail lights behind bumper. Google says it is a common problem. I managed to squirt sealant along the top edge of each valve without having to remove bumper. That stopped water collecting in boot.

I guess so, to be sure.

Check that the amplification circuit in the base is getting a 12 volt supply up the coax lead from the radio.

Poundland do the best deal for canned air.

Ha ha. I'm sorry for the confusion UrbanPanzer. Thank you for reading my post. The fault is seen when the front wipers are working. It is an intermittent fault, i.e. sometimes the rears work as they should when the front wipers are on, and sometimes they don't operate at all when the front wipers are on. I've never had the rears switched on without the fronts being switched on (i.e. when it's raining). Mmmmm? That's a thought. Maybe I should try that when it's not raining and see what happens. Thanks UrbanPanzer. Cheers

Sometimes my rear wiper wont work at all. It happens only when it is raining, or to put it another way, only when my front wipers are working. Could it be the switch ? Thank you.

I've had 1.2 HTP Mk 1 and Mk 2 Fabs in my household for the past 8 years. They all had a 2 second rattle on cold start up. I sold the last with 160k on the clock and still going strong with original chain and tensioner. I've come to the conclusion it's normal for Fabs with chains.

Is the amplifier getting the required 12 volt (I think it's 12 volt) supply from the radio up the coax? It needs the power to work.

Wot's complicated about an AZQ? Definitely worth investigating the cause before risking a second hand engine. 130k miles does not necessarily mean knackered. Mine was going strong at 160k with no oil usage between services, before I sold the car. Good luck.

Why is there such a huge variation of Autodoc's price for the same part number between different brands? Are the products from the expensive brands the same spec/quality as the low cost brands? Are we being ripped off by what I believe the trade calls "brand value"?

How do you get rid of the old coolant/water mix? My Council Recycling Department wont take it unless it's in it's original packaging (?!?)?

Is it possible to adjust the sensitivity? In the 6 months I've owned my Mk 2 Fab the light has come on about 10 times. Checking the tyres I find that one or other of the tyres has gone down 1 or 2 psi to 30 or 31. It's easy to reset by pressing the button next to the handbrake, but still annoying. Thanks very much.

I want to purchase a tyre inflator but I'm wondering how much power can be safely drawn from the socket (connecting to the battery would be too complex for my wife).

Ooooohh. I didn't know that. Durr. That tool's definitely not there. Thanks guys. Great forum. Tool ordered off Fleabay. xx

I've just moved from a Mk 1 (160k and still going strong!) to a Mk 2 and first job was to inspect the brakes. The longest part of the work was removing the plastic caps from the bolt heads on the alloy wheels. I have the wire hook thingy tool that's stored with the jack. But it was sooooo fiddly. Is there a knack please? Should I be using a different tool?