dara85

As I said before I wouldn't be put off by bad experience with hybrid, just get it from reputable company. Of course that comes with price...There is a reason why his turbos are so cheap... I had 3 in my Octavia, first was blowing oil through the oil seal in into the exhaust, second didn't want to come on boost, third a bit better than second but had whining noise. You get the picture I'm sure. Had fitted proper hybrid and am happy bunny ever since, pulling 186hp and 322lb/ft on very conservative map (PD140, hybrid similar to 1749VB).

Well if you think that North East Remaps's map was conservative, then go to Kris and say you want a brutal map to tear the asphalt off and he will do it. He writes his maps from scratch and not even using base map so anything you want can be done. He will do the mapping remotely but at least in my case there was no extra charge when I came to him. He also can come to you but you have to pay extra for the distance he needs to travel. Needless to say, his prices are very reasonable. Speak to him, you won't be disappointed.

Where did you get the hybrid turbo if I might ask? Do a search on here, lots of places to get quality turbo like AET or turbo dynamics. I wouldn't be put off by this bad experience, hybrid from reputable company will last at least the same time as stock one.

Don't see any reason to have it done in the dealer. Some independent garages (proper ones) will do the job, with warranty, but for much less. Few years ago my Fabia VRS had new cambelt, aux belt and water pump, oil&filer and gearbox oil changed, brake fluid changed and replaced seals on leaking power steering unit (+ fluid top up) all in for £540 with 2 years warranty. Shop around, £720 is pure archness to quote.

Oscilloscope is not a software but measuring device to see changes in electrical signal...well you learn something new every day right https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscilloscope

I just realized that I didn't update my thread... After my problems with new turbo (old one packed up), one garage suggested to check the timing. As I mentioned few times, my torsion value was 1.0. As it was explained to me, there is no way how to set timing properly with VCDS on this engines and locking pins have to be used. When they set the timing on locking pins, torsion value changed to -1.5 and guess what...juddering on idle is gone, starting problems gone, it's setting off smoothly, power is back where it should be. It's hard to describe but the car feels like it has new engine. Thanks for help guys

I know this won't be a much of help to solve the problem but in my pre fl with factory fitted mfsw the volume buttons worked as well. On the left side, illumination (obviously) and mute worked too but not sure if "skipping" buttons did, they suppose to skip between cds but I never had any cd in.

I have spoken to Narco on few occasions and I think they improved in terms of getting the map done in the way customer wants it but my car was just mapped by Kris and that is completely different customer service and must say for unbeatable price. We spent 10 hours tweaking the map (in all fairness actuator needed some adjustment too so that took us some time) until I was happy with it. Sure it would be much faster on rolling road but then again, price compensates it. Narco will be probably cheapest if map and all work you mentioned will be done by them, compare to Sharks or DS but I would let mechanical work done by independent garage and map it by Kris.

Thanks for this Wino!

Thanks Wino, It is 2008 (pre fl),BKD

Did you eventually fix it? I have the same problem (although it's on octavia mk2) and would like to get some pointers before I get underneath the car. Cheers

When we were replacing the turbo, we had to do it from underneath as there is not enough space to take the turbo out from the top. Maybe there is a way but we didn't see it doable (that was with egr cooler still in place though). It's not that difficult but OSF drive shaft needs to go out (or at least unbolt from differential and move on side) and downpipe needs to be moved back. Then it's pretty straight forward job but I wouldn't do it without proper tools.

My girlfriend's custom build on Specialized frame which I won on ebay for decent money (seatpost is only temporary uncat alloy, currently cut-to-length carbon one fitted) And mine Trek. Picture taken on my recent holiday in Croatia, South Velebit mountains. If anyone is thinking to go biking there, this website is full of great tracks <take adventure>. But summer time isn't the best choice, usually is immensely hot!

Cheeky offer? £50 delivered?

If you are confident enough to open and spray them, why don't you use plasti dip paint? Would be much cheaper (but time consuming) than buying second set of headlights.

Well mine was very fussy about cards too. Non-ending loading time was one issue but sometimes it loaded cards fine but after few restarts I ended up with reading error and had to format the card and copy all files again. Low speed 2GB card worked reasonably fine (expect for loading time) but small capacity made it unusable. Lots have been written about all problems so search button if best friend... No, you need to power it up and look at service menu. Yes and no - you can upgrade the firmware in original car (at least that I was told in Skoda dealer) and it costs around £100. I know guy in Czech who can do it for £30 but that is not an option for you I guess.

And try to get one with 054 FW - older firmwares are fussy about SD cards

Quick look on google and the part number for Bolero is the older style so no fascia change required. I think you are right about CAN gateway, L and newer are best bet. When I had Bolero in my 2008 Octavia, the buttons on steering wheel worked fine and it should on yours too.

EGR isn't crucial engine component so no limp mode involved, only light on dash as you mentioned. Keep in mind that it wouldn't pass MOT with the engine light on.

On the graph, the red line represents amount of boost which ecu requests from the turbo, the green one is actual pressure read from the map sensor and blue one represents amount of vacuum applied by n75 valve. The "underboost" at the start of graph is normal because the turbo doesn't have enough exhaust fumes and spools up as rpm rise. Your concern is the overboost. If the turbo is original, then it should be set right and problem could be with n75 or vacuum lines. I'm pretty sure the stutter and sluggish performance are both related to fueling. That would explain why remap didn't help much. Could be injectors being partially blocked or although you said the timing is bang on 0, your car might need fine adjustment. When was fuel filter changed?

As you can see from the graph below, your turbo isn't working as it should, small overboost would be fine but 500mbar is too much. Mr. Muscle treatment won't have any effect on this. Do you know if the turbo is still original one or if previous owner replaced it?

Use a small flat screwdriver and move the lever in circle a bit to the right. It doesn't move much, just about 4-5mm but you should feel when it's done. Some on the other headlamp but the lever will move other way.

Lag will improve a bit when mapped properly and the overboost will be cured by lengthening actuator rod, give it 2 turns and log again. If you have vacuum tester, check at what pressure the rod hits the stop screw. Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk

If google gives you wierd results it's because the "flap" unit isn't throttle body but anti shudder valve... Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk

Where did you get the recon turbo from? It might be set incorrectly. Can you provide full boost log? Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk