JohnMack

Be careful, if the dust cover has stuck to the piston then there's a chance you'll rip it when you start to wind in the piston. Use a small electrical screwdriver to prise the dust cover out from the groove in the piston and then move it(the screwdriver) around the circumference of the piston to ensure it's free, be careful doing this. Squirting a bit of lube into the piston groove wouldn't do it any harm. That £8.99 ebay kit should do the job.

So, after going to view a 2017 VRS estate we came away with it and so “old faithful” has now passed into new hands. With almost 270,000 miles under her belt and still going as well as when we bought it….Sold. The new car has big boots to fill, I doubt it’ll be as good as the old one??…. time will tell.

There's no cable from what I remember? I only replaced the switch.

I agree, but I'd like it to be a minimal amount 👍

Thanks, I did ask the seller if he was topping up between services. His answer was yes....towards the service being due ? Have decided to stop looking for the time being, will plough on with "old faithful" ! ( Turned 240k today )

Read through most of those threads, my head's bursting! So........ would a CUPA engined VRS with 92k miles and history showing oil changes every 10k miles be a good car ? I'm thinking it's been looked after ? If it's not using oil and I continue with the 10k mile oil change intervals, will it be ok?......... or is it likely to develop a thirst regardless ?!

Maybe the battery only just managing to do it's job could be the reason for the warning lights ? ...... did the clock reset when starting or was it actually 12:05 AM !!?? Regarding being stuck in park, try a new brake pedal switch....cheap enough and easy to fit.

That's not much at all, i could cope with that !

Thanks for that, will need to check engine code and service history when viewing any potential cars. I service the car we've got myself every 10k miles and I can't recall ever having to add oil between changes. I check it probably once avery 2 weeks.

That's interesting about the CUPA engines.

Hello folks, long term lurker here, but looking for anyone's experiences of mk3 VRS ? We have a 59 plate VRS diesel (CEGA engine, CR) which now has 230k on it, still drives great and has never needed anything out of the ordinary. But the time will come when it gets a bit scabby looking and we'll look for a newer one......so !? Pretty set on another diesel due to the present car being so reliable and easy to work on ...are the later diesels just as good? Thanks in advance. John.

Thanks toot, we've had the car about 7 years now. I'll likely just check the wiring to the ABS pump and it's earthing wire.....not too keen to take it to the dealer. Strange that they've just sent this letter now?....got the emissions recall letter about 6 years ago....never got that done either !

Hello all, I'm not on here much as our Octavia VRS (CR) causes no bother whatsoever ! (touches wood!)........ but got a recall letter in the post about the above recall. Tried a search on this here forum and was surprised I couldn't find any info ? Reading the letter I'm thinking it could maybe be just a simple earth-wire check as they quote a time of "about 30 minutes" ? Can anyone enlighten me please ? Thanks in advance. John.

New switch fitted and boot now opens every time.

@MicMac Was looking for genuine part, get it from TPS today. Cheers for the link though.

Stripped the panel from the tailgate and the panel from inside the boot today.......I put a noid light on the plug going to the actuator and bypassed the boot (micro) switch and low and behold the noid light lit up....so looks like the micro-switch has failed. Part no. is 1Z0 827 574C There's a new one on e-bay for about £35 but I'll order from my local TPS, might get it a wee bit cheaper ? I did loosen the rubber boot around the wiring between body and tailgate but all wires intact.....although the thicker white one had a crack in the insulation....ok for now though.

Will give this a try, thanks. I'm thinking though it could be broken wires where the loom goes between boot and body.........but your idea sounds like an easier fix!

Got a boot opening issue which is happening more and more often now. I try to open the boot, can hear the click of the micro-switch from the release button but not the noise from the actuator.......and the boot obviously doesn't open, Sometimes if being persistent it'll open. Anyone had similar fault, car is a 59 plate and has 210k under it's belt. Thanks in advance. John.

I read that the problem could be wear on the mechanical linkage between the motor and the flap, after switching off the engine the motor cycles and because of the wear it (the motor)moves more than what it should......and so it brings on the EML when next started.

Have I logged onto the wrong forum ?!

This thread could be of interest?.......

Great !

Not for sale anymore, can I have my fiver back please?!! Car is now back on it's feet after fitting a 2nd hand rack.....I suspect it failed due to water contamination (mix-up between screen-wash and PS reservoirs ??) and it was red....should be green G00200 stuff. New parts fitted were rear susp spring, front susp spring, front wheel bearing, front susp arms, track rod ends, front discs and pads. Needs attention to intercooler and turbo pipes, intercooler is oily and the lower pipe was detached-I refitted it but it blew off after a few miles of not hard driving. Will try and remember to post some pics here as it progresses. Cheers. John.

Cheers, just joined.

Some pictures.