JohnMack

Thanks for the input. I had read some folks responses similar to what you've said in that the "throw" of light isn't the best even although they look brighter than a halogen? It is dipped beam I'm looking at here though so foreground is where I want to improve. Regards BCM damage, I hadn't heard of LED bulbs causing this, just HID kits due to a high current draw on powering up? Can you confirm? As long as the beam pattern's as it should be, the MOT I'm not worried about....I suppose I could just fire in the old bulbs. The lights are in good nic. As summer is upon us and there's more daylight hours, I've some time to ponder!

Ok thanks, like these?….. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Philips-Ultinon-Essential-LED-Kit-6000K-White-H7-Bulb-Head-Light-Low-Beam-lamp/113674512403?epid=15036309454&hash=item1a77876813:g:-n4AAOSwPqZd6FLJ

My wife's VRS has the projector type headlights (NOT HID) with H7 type bulbs for dipped beam, up 'till now I've just used Quantum bulbs from TPS if one's needed replacing. BUT, I was contemplating LED bulbs...…….worth it yes/no? Could it potentially cause a problem with the control side of the lamps? And (the usual question!) will it let the light-check system think there's a bulb out?! Was thinking of these...…… https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/headlight-led-bulbs/products/led-headlight-conversion-bulbs-h7-4600-lumen-philips-z-es-main-dipped-glb477 …..anyone??

Not sure what the newer diesel's are like but my wife's 2.0 CR (2009model) coped with an 8 mile commute for 18 months...….commute is now longer though. I've never driven the TFSi but rate the diesel highly, it's got plenty go and fuel consumption around 50 mpg average. Sound like the diesel tax could be the clincher ?!

If EML is on and fault code P2015 is recorded, the bracket can be fitted to save an expensive repair.

Thanks for the links, it's an alloy manifold.

Can someone tell me where they got the bracket from? I see a few different ones on e-bay and would rather buy one that someone here can recommend . A link would be helpful ! Many thanks. John.

Cheers.

Can someone recommend a tool for doing the belt/pump on my wife's 2009 VRS diesel . Saw this on ebay....... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6PCS-TIMING-LOCKING-TOOL-SET-FOR-VW-Audi-Seat-Skoda/162877065164?epid=1264040344&hash=item25ec3ac7cc:g:9aIAAOSw57xacBqJ Anyone think this'll do the job??.........what kit do others use? Cheers. John.

Of course, wasn't thinking.

Thanks guys, I understand now and have just viewed a few on ebay so know what you mean. Does the bottom ball joint need disconnecting for access to one or more of the torx bolts? I think it's the N/S I'll be doing, it's not apparent until it's been driven for a good few miles .

I see, so I'm assuming you replace the bearing complete with hub attached? What makes the bolts difficult to undo.....are they just super tight or is access restricted? Apologies if the above are stupid questions.

My wife's 2009 VRS is due a front wheel bearing, got a light whine about the n/s. What's different about these than doing an ordinary bearing?

Anybody fancy these springs? 2 rear shockers as well (fronts were goosed!) Make me an offer?............. collect from Edinburgh area.

That's true as well!

Fair comment.

I'm upgrading the springs on my wife's 2009 VRS (2.0 CR) diesel estate, fitting Eibach ones and new shockers too as it's done about 130k miles..... .......anyway the old springs are in very good condition, so is it worth me advertising them for sale? Would standard VRS springs be considered an upgrade for anyone with a lesser model? .......or would I be wasting my time? Thanks, John.

071115562C oil filter 3C0127434 fuel filter 1K0129620D air filter JZW819653B pollen filter (if AC fitted) N90813202 sump plug with washer ZGB115QLB00501 Quantum long-life oil (5 litres) These are the part numbers from when I first got service parts from TPS, if you have a Dingbro branch near you then you'll get exactly the same stuff (less oil!) from them but in a MANN box.....for a bit less £ ! (09 VRS CR)

Have no experience of the petrol but my wife's '09 diesel (CR) is great to drive even if the suspension is a bit crashy!

For a non sporting car they're the best option, easy and cheap to fix, handbrake holds great and the set-up isn't susceptible to the elements like disc set-up. I like personally but we all have different views!!! :thumbup:

Sounds like you've found your cause of volts drop...................follow the cable(s) from battery negative terminal and you'll find main earthing points. I suspect it'll have just one going to block and a separate one from block to body but you'll just have to check.

Couldn't of put it better myself ! .....and how many times the wheels turn doesn't determine how well the battery is charged!!

Ok. Do volts drop tests under load. You're looking to have minimum drop. Check voltage at battery doesn't drop under 9v when cranking, it should remain above 9v for a period of 10 seconds easily.......you'll need to pull a fuse or put a live to the solenoid to do this. If voltage drops under you have battery issues........ You quoted 12.1 volts in first post.......this IS low as someone else mentioned but if starting ok then I suspect the battery is good but just discharged. Did you check the alternator fuse at battery?.........is your car petrol or diesel?

Try some OCD on how to work your voltmeter and you'll have your answer!

You need to check volts drop on earth and supply circuits when under load, there will be you-tube guide on this that will show you better than I can explain! If I was you I'd be checking the fuses which sit on top of the battery(part of the cover?).........poor connection/high resistance here will be obvious if the plastic has started to melt/deform.