JohnMack

Maybe ordering a kit from a company that specialises in such?......maybe like this lot.... Gen 4 Ultimate Service Kit for VW Audi Seat Skoda – Haldex Parts and ECU Repairs by Auto Fault Finder Ltd Not sure about your 2019 car but I think the older Haldex unit's had a dry fill capacity of 750ml ? Service fill would be less. Differential will take a litre though. Definitely worth doing .

A wee update, I drained my gear oil......2 litres dropped out and it was pretty dark not like the new stuff. I filled it through the reverse light switch because @BrandonW put the fear in me removing the black plastic plug !! I put back in maybe a wee bit more than the 2.3 litres specified . 1st impressions after a 25 mile drive.....2nd gear selection maybe better.

As the engine was under maximum load , could the turbo have seized ? Can you access the impellor and see if it spins ?

You're tyre place will be glad you've got a Skoda ! 😉

Any tyre fitter won't be disappointed, it's easy to damage them when replacing tyres. My experience of the Skoda/VAG system is that it works well.

I think our CUNA engined VRS is using about 0.3 litres per 1000 miles, I can handle that ...... but it's 0.3 litres more than I put in between services on the old car with 270k miles !! .....I'm not bitter though 😉 My understanding is the rings become stuck?(long life servicing?), has anyone tried dropping anything into the cylinders to free them ?.....worth a try ??

Thanks, I've been you-tubing ........ clearances don't look too bad to do, and definitely easier with engine out !

Me neither, I give them a wipe periodically with a rag soaked in brake cleaner but if they're not split then they're still good to go ! Our last Octavia I replaced them with genuine parts when we bought it 2nd hand, 150k miles later I sold it with the same blades. There was nothing wrong with the originals but as the car was new to us I felt the urge to treat it ! I'd recon sunlight and heat will do damage as opposed to the dull wet weather they are meant to help us see through !?

No I didn't, everything else was in spec as per the printout. I drove it home, slackened the nuts on the tie arms and gave one a half turn clockwise and the other a half turn anti-clockwise, tightened the nuts and gave it a spin....sorted. It's what they should've done but wanted me to come back another day for them to rectify it. They told me it wasn't right when I went back to collect it ?...... I'm assuming they were busy that day but why not finish the job instead of asking me to rebook . I foolishly paid them for their time but decided I'd sort it myself as that'd be quicker than rebooking and taking back to them. It was my first time (and last!) I'd been there, I went because they have a Hunter wheel alignment set-up.......I used to use the guy at Sighthill (can't remember the name, CLCM ?) but he sold out to someone who had little experience. I'm assuming they (autohaus) has upped their game a bit since then but first impressions count and so I would never go back. I'm sure others have had a better experience !

Hopefully Autohaus can sort you out if West End can't. I went to autohaus for wheel alignment on an Audi S2 about 10 years ago, I noted many framed certificates for whatever accolades in their reception area.....however my car left with the steering wheel off centre. My experience wasn't a good one .

W.E. Skoda......... E'burgh ? Regards brakes.. Maybe you've answered your own question ?!! Putting software aside maybe a more old school approach is required?........like checking air filter and replacing fuel filter ?.....could exhaust have a blockage ?

I've been doing cars for years but have an engine swap do on my ZZR600, potentially have the valve clearances to do on the replacement engine before it goes in.......haven't checked them yet ?!

I'm assuming the wee belt was easy enough to change, just the time involved in removing and refitting the sump? I'm assuming there's no recommended service interval for replacement ? What era of bikes did you mainly work on?

Interested to hear if it fits ok (without breaking it?!) Does the quality seem ok ?

Might be worth checking the loom where it goes between the roof and tailgate at the hinge area? The wiring will have flexed here many times as the tailgate has opened and closed over the years .

I'm thinking you're maybe not a "hands on" kind of guy ? I'm not knocking you by any means but if it's a concerning noise then maybe running it by your garage (any garage) would be the thing to do. If you are able to release the tension on the auxiliary belt enough to slip it off, then run the engine to see if the noise is still there, if it were to stop then problem lies with the external belt and pulleys , not timing belt/water pump etc. When was the timing belt and associated pulleys replaced? Have you checked the engine oil level by the way?

I think I had a similar issue with our old 2009 Octavia, it was the clutch mechanism on the AC pump, I tightened a screw (or screws?) to sort it........worth checking assuming you have AC ? When you say belt area, do you mean the auxiliary belt or timing belt ? What mileage is on your car?

My photo was taken from underneath, I'm assuming the switch with the 2 wires is the reverse light switch......it's way higher than the driveshafts so would be fine to fill from here. I'd be sceptical about removing the black plastic nut. I'm going to remove the airbox and take a look from above, will do this over the weekend.

Had the undertray off today for a wee look, not sure where the fill plug is but I’m thinking I’ll probably just put 2.3 litres in through the reverse light switch hole?

Hopefully this will be of use to others. Looks like a special tool required for the level plug ? Wonder if this would do?..... BGS - VAG Oil & Gearbox Drain Plug - M16 x 58 mm Spline (XZN) - Tamperpro - 4356 | eBay UK I'm not sure the above ebay item would be the correct size? ....might have to go for something like this......... 6pc 1/2" Tamper-Proof 12 Point Security Bit Socket VW & Audi Gearbox Drain Plug | eBay UK ** PLEASE NOTE ** The above info relates to my 2017 VRS TDI........Petrol model is maybe different?

Anti-roll bar link perhaps ? You need to get underneath it to check. There's always the bottom ball join, susp. spring, strut top mount, shocker etc as well !!

I'll see my garage pal on Monday, I'll take a look at his Autodata service stuff and report back 👍

Had Eibach springs on our old VRS, they were on the car for 9 years until sold. Ride height was the same as standard I'd say. Value for money for sure, I think they were powder coated as opposed to being painted ? Fitted Monroe shox at the same time which I was never happy with. Replaced them later with Bilstein ones from Autodoc, I don't think they had a B number , they were just the OE equivalent ? As above I wouldn't discount KYB, I rate their shockers. Have you checked the condition of the rear arms/links/bushes? What about the front arm bushes, I think one of the polybush companies does a rear bush/mount which makes the steering "turn in" sharper ? Any pics of your (OP) car?

I did our last VRS tdi 2009)at about 120k and then again at about 200k miles. Sold a few weeks ago nudging 280k miles and the box had no issues. (drain and refill plugs were obvious). @BrandonW ...... I'm in the same position as you with our new VRS (2017 , 99k miles), bought the oil and will change it very soon so keen to hear more replies ! Wish I'd priced the oil first.....I'll maybe get it from Opie next time ?!

What would you consider a huge mileage and at what mileage do you think the injectors will need replacing ?