steved83

Once I had started I had to finish. To be fair there's wasnt a lot of swirling. Mainly inflicted by me and wash process despite being careful over the last 3 years. There's a couple of deeper marks but no time to take them out. I'm probably at around 70% swirl free which I'm happy with. As for sealants very easy. I've used CQUK before (previous versions) and i find it very easy to apply. From experience on my old Leon it lasted and performed much better applying in a garage and keeping it in overnight/12 hours. I saw a drop off after 9 months applied outside and topped with reload after an hour. Applied inside well over 12 months. I've only ever done one coat of CQUK before so hoping the two coast plus Gliss this time round should see me 24 months or there abouts. Gliss was new to me, its slicker than the CQUK, but I suppose thats the point in it. I struggled with the flashing and haze point of it but lighting was limited. I pretty much spread over an area for 30secs then wiped off. Both CQUK and Gliss applied by hand. I used the supplied suede applicators for both and went through them all. I wiped both off with a short pile microfibre. After each complete coat of CQUK i wiped over the whole car with one of the larger suede cloths supplied just to ensure the product was removed. The DLUX i rate, my grey roof rails are now a much better colour. It is very tacky though. Shall see how it lasts

This thread along with the "lost interest in detailing" thread got me kick started to sort the car out. A move from the South to the East, two kids and juggling work so one of us is about meant I had lost time and interest in sorting the car out over a regular clean. I had it professionally done (Gyeon) when I bought it 3 years ago. That coating had all but gone and was being topped up with spray on wet products. So with some time off, grandparents roped in for childcare I set to work. Well actually I set to work 3 months ago. I removed the tail trims and mud flaps, cleaned and coated with gtechnic C5 and Carpro DLUX respectively. My plan was Carpro CQUK 3 and Gliss along with DLUX for the trim. Naturally I ordered everything and treated myself to a black pack grille surround then the pressure washer gave up after 7 years (New Nilfisk C135 purchased) and then it was time for 4 new tyres. I'd worn the PS4's down and the rear Bridgestone had cracked so much they had to go. 4x Assemetric 5's it was then. So the normal decon process, tar, iron, clay etc. Polish was one step using Carpro Fixer on white hex via DA. CQUK 3 x 2 coats an hour apart Gliss x1 4 hours after 2nd coat of CQUK. DLUX on the trim Gtechniq G1 on all the glass Gtechniq C5 on wheel faces only Shuts and behind lights with Sonax PNS Started at 10:30 finished at 1am (well 2am) Not the best driveway pics. The lower grille is not perfect I hit it hard several times but ingrained dirt remains. I didn't dress the arches either. The wheels could do with a refurb hence I only did the faces.

And in this post you will find all the part no.s you will need from sgs

I can certainly recommend SGS they were superb for me recently. When I did my struts I purchased elsewhere but got the various fixtures from SGS. Pic of stuts I have for reference.

I would interested to know when things turn up (how long in total) and if there's any extra duty/tax you get hit with. I want to order some bits but conscious of potential courier/import tax costs may make goods twice the price given the stories already reported. I see they have changed their name too?

Had this on my 2015 estate, rear near side door sloshing. I took the seal at the bottom off, used a pair of pliers to pull all the plastic lugs out then thoroughly cleaned the seal with microfiber and cleaned and the same with the actual door. Loads of muck came out and no issues since. I assumed just a build up of muck from the roads given its the near side and most roads I travel on a rural.

Can highly recommend Gizmo. Really helpful with our Mk2 when we lived that way.

I've used wet coat and hydro o2 lite. I spray on everything including side and rear glass and pressure rinse as described. I don't spray directly onto front screen but as you mention when you rinse roof and bonnet there will be overspray as such. Never had any issues with front screen or wipers from either product. All my glass is coated with gtechniq G1. Not sure if it would cause issues (on front screen) on un coated glass. With use of wipers and screen wash any spray on product would quickly diminish. Or post wash of your worried clean screen with apc and a glass cleaner. Bottom line. Spray everywhere bar windscreen dont worry about overspray just rinse as instructed everywhere.

@jimbojamesthanks for posting this up. Can't say I've noticed the continuation of throttle on mine upon lifting. Last few trips have given mpg I would have expected. Who knows might be a placebo thing for me now. Mine is still covered by warranty and whilst their comms have been a bit poor the dealer has not charged for anything so far. Think ill drive and see now. If it gets worse something will come up. Thanks again for posting result

Reading with interest as following a service by dealer i had the same fault codes; P006800 - MAP/MAF Throttle Position correlation P227900 - Intake Air System Leak I don't have a rough idle or associated fault code. I've suffered poor economy since, down from around 380miles/37mpg to 330miles/33mpg a tank, this is since August so not weather related. Fault appeared three times but not since a throttle position correlation reset by dealer. Mine is dsg so I feel the behaviour has changed albeit dealer has reset it twice and following a third party examination they have found no fault and said the dsg was working very well and as expected. They could not account for/find a reason for poor economy. I'm convinced a senor is not quite right and perhaps feeding the dsg duff info but all the experts have said no issues or faults. Be interested to see if you find a fix or if you've suffered poor economy too.

Yep that's the one, I knew it was something like that. Hopefully helps OP out

When you tap city and move to next screen bottom left says PCODE or similar. You can enter postcode now

I do an 18 mile cross country route, all rural. 38-40 is achievable. Without trying. I've just done 150 mile mororway run with kids and boot packed to the ceiling. Car currently has fault causing poor economy. Got 36mpg Long term average is 36 - TSi DSG

Yes MY15, not had from new, its possible previous owner had something done albeit this would be the only thing done as I've had quite a few things added with help of a member here. I hear what you and above are saying in relation to how dsg works about not remembering but I've not had this issue for 2yrs 22k and it has become apparent after this throttle position correlation reset. I've spoken to dealer today they want to ask a tech. I cant help but think that the correlation was done to fix a fault. A fault that returned and was diagnosed as a leaking boost pipe, in reality the throttle reset never needed to be done. I'll research the throttle mod. Thanks to all for taking time to reply

No access to vcds or others. I suppose I'm just frustrated at the fact my driving style and input has not changed but the feel and response of throttle has along with behaviour of dsg. I'll see what dealer comes up with

Had the car for 2 years and never any problem with the dsg, I've always found it ideal and never has it wanted to be in 4th or 5th or 6th so early. Its since this TPS reset that it feels like this. Taken the joy out of driving it. A prod on the pedal in 6th at 44mph will see it pull and not change. Before it would have been in 5th and dropped to 4th. I have seen he dsg reset thing. My thoughts are that this correlation reset needs doing again now the car is actually running as it should. Back to the dealer for round 5 I think.

I want to check I'm not suffering from placebo effect and there is something wrong. All the below is in normal engine mode. Long story short during fault diagnosis the dealer performed a throttle position correlation reset. It didnt cure the fault and showed up again. Subsequently leaking boost pipe was located and replaced. Another throttle position correlation reset was NOT carried out. Now the following tends to happen Select 4th at about 25mph Selects 5th at 38-40 Selects 6th at 44 on anything less than a third throttle. Coming down wont change from 5th to 4h until 32mph, its practically on idle before change, this happens all the way down with 4th and 3rd. If under slight load the car will change up 2nd through to 5th by time I'm at 45, lift off and it will change to 6th. Previously I'd find myself having to lift off as I'd reached desired speed in say 4th, it just keeps changing up early. Previously if in 5th and I flexed my toes it would drop to fourth now it relies on torque in 5th. Same for 6th and 4th, short of applying half throttle it wont change down. The first 1/4 of the throttle feels numb, almost like eco mode. For it to change down I'm almost having to apply half two thirds throttle. Due to the way the car now behaves I'm finding myself in 4th at roundabouts 5th during slow speed (33mph) bends and during inclines where as car would previously change down it's now relying on the torque with a slight increase in pressure on throttle. All of this I'm sure was not the case. On top my commute would normally see 38mpg with no trying and no traffic, just a nice forward planning commute. The same journey I'm seeing 33mpg. I can get 38 but I have to try o so hard. Generally after two tanks I'm down from 36 to 32 average and now 330 a tank instead of 365miles. If the above is normal then maybe it was wrong in the first place. If the above is out of character in your experience then I feel a little bit better in myself that something is wrong when I contact the dealer......again.

The other option is to have the Scandanavian drl option enabled? This gives you rear tail lights with your front drl on the auto setting. The only change when the auto headlights come on being the number plate lights turn on at the rear and the fact the headlights come on. I find the earliest setting suits me. The times where I wish they would come on a bit earlier is usually during poor weather, therefore my lights are not for me to be able to see but for others to see me. With the scandanavian drl activated this solves my problem - front and rear drl 24/7.

Echo others above, I'm at 35mpg long term after 2 years. A long motorway trip fully loaded will see me get 40/42mpg without trying too hard. B roads to work (I live rural), depends how late I am, 28-39mpg, usually 35mpg. Without trying to go either slow or quick I always end up around the 33/35mpg mark. Mine is 220 dsg.

The only time I find a little frustrating is in normal coming in and out my estate, it's very twisty and lots of parked cars. The dsg will often (in normal mode) constantly flick between 2nd and 3rd. I just reach enough speed for 3rd at the same time have to slow for a corner/parked car/car coming the other way. The box will jump 2nd 3rd 2nd. To resolve it like many others have and also do in stop start town traffic is flick it into sport mode so it hangs on to 2and. I'm only reaching 2200/2500rpm but in normal it will change to 3rd. It's not really a gripe as such as I only switch it 50% of the time. Like 64vrs said for that 10% theres the paddles. I find myself just pulling down and flicking into sport for an overtake or slip road, once done flick back to normal.

Hello all, Wondering if someone may be able to suggest anything else regarding below. 2015 Vrs TSi DSG 49k. FSSH all services completed as scheduled. Serviced on Friday, all filters including air con, no spark plug change, all in order drove 8 miles home car sat there for the night. Sat am on start up eml remains lit. Small test drive showed no obvious issues, but it was driven gently. Look under the bonnet dipstick, oil cap all other caps appeared on and tight. That's the extent of my knowledge. All lights working. Following fault codes found. P006800 MAP/MAF throttle position correlation (this code appeared 3 times) P227900 Intake air system leak. Garage noted onnopening bonnet the small rubber hose going into air box not attached, presumably taken off when air filter changed. Cleared codes tok for test drive for 15 mins all fine. Picked car up no eml. Drive 100m (supermarket) popped in popped out start up eml on again. Back to local garage who confirm same faults present. Car under warranty so suggest dealer before they look further. Fault codes reset. Driven several times since and no reappearance of eml. Was it just that hose or from knowledge anything else I should be looking at/aware of before it goes to Skoda (along with a complaint) Cheers Steve

As 64vrs said, cant believe I waited so long. I spent ages finding a manual in the right spec but only found dsg. Went for a test drive and now I wont go back to manual. Even the wife who was hesitant in dsg would look for dsg/equivalent in her next car. 64vrs; my wife wanted Rallye Green ended up with Race Blue. Great colour and suits the 19's.

I used the vcds map here to find someone relatively local to me, dropped them a private message to see if they would assist and they did. I've used this twice once in Kent and once in Norfolk and both owners were really helpful. Definantly a friendly bunch on here. I went along with my lights fitted them there and had those along with a few other things coded in too.

I have the same car and my number plate lights needed coding. I bought oem ones from the Rapid and they fit straight in no cutting or modifying.

Winter pack, Canton, Columbus and the 18's which I prefer personally. Against folding mirrors, smart link and the diff. Was always going to use the heated screen more than folding mirrors. The diff, well would I really use the potential on the road, nothing some decent tyres and careful planning whilst driving to close the diff/non diff gap in the real world. Smartlink would be nice but weighed up against the price difference and lack of winter pack. 220 also had less milage by 9k and was 2.5k cheaper 15 vs 16 plate. I searched for 8 months finding the right car and it got to a point where I'd found as good as I thought I could get for budget. And the 220 dealer offered me an extra £300 in part ex for mine.