D.FYLAKTOS

357 919 501 B This for 1.3 and 68HP model, don't buy a cheap one.

See in the first seconds? Waiting for the pump to stop, then i crank and after few seconds the engine is in idle.

I do this for 20+ years, the gear stick in N and the pedal pressed, reduces the initial ''load'' for the engine to start in cold. @TonyW1967 When you turn the key to the 1st as i saw twice that you don't wait for the pump to make it's work and you crank immediately, why? This is wrong especially in a cold engine.

For future viewers, as we look the engine bay and the coolant sensor pins: the first two (in front) are for Dash and the other two (in the back) are for ECU. For sure can we make the Ω test in our bench at house huh?

I wonder, what the indications could be in a Summer day with 18 'C for example? The part code is 357919754 but we measure in the pins (male) or in the other side (female, on the coolant switch) ?

For GR the O 'C measurement can be achieved.

In the center of 2 dents part of colour is missing.

A coolant sensor with debris on it or with damaged cables (both have happened to me) does not make the light bulb to turn on. A faulty sensor can make the cluster gauge to show''fake'' results for the coolant temperature and make the needle to go up-down unpredictably (also happened to me) .

I had time pressure,the car must be ready at noon to take it to go to work (2nd shift),i went to the Upholsering shop early in the morning as 1st client. Now when the time comes would be a Bondo (stucco) job.

Impressions: the ceiling is more ''robust'', the sound was reduced to minimum while travelling and the noise from the rain drops almost vanished, before the ''doung-doung'' sound was present and the whole results is that the ''tin effect'' that other cars had does not apply to mine. I am happy, i wish i have done it years ago but as we say here ''Better late than never". 😉

This is the StP which made the ceiling more ''steady'' reducing a lot the vibrations while travelling in highway. I grab the chance to send the Headlining to a car wash (Pakistani) and they clean it, let it dry and then the Upholster guy put it back. Here are the photos from the second material:

Towards the end of 2020 ι was hearing a strange noise from the roof light and only when the car was turning, an annoying ''tzzzz" but not when it was rolling in a straight line. I waited a few days and at the beginning of 2021 i went to the repair-shop. I asked them to remove the Headlining (here we call it inner roof) for inspection and on the occasion, i told them to soundproof the roof of the car. That ''squeaky'' sponge was removed permanently, the inner roof was cleaned thoroughly and as you can there are 3 small holes, the 2 of them was from a bottle of beer that a neighbour throw out from his balcony towards the trash-can on the road (but landed in my car which was beside) and the other from a juvenile which hit my roof as a sign of ''resistance'' because i had a Greek flag sticker in the trunk door. According to his religion the neighbour should drinking because he could face a fine and public whipping in his country but here is Greece and the local's people assets don't count. I didn't had the time and money to fix those holes plus the painting job so i let them for another time. The sponge that has been removed from his position a bit and the harness of the ceiling light was causing that sound. As for the soundproof project first i bought some sheets of STP Black Silver Shop Pack, according to the manufacturer: It is installed in any area of the car where vibration attenuation is required: external and intermediate door panels, roof, floor, engine compartment, trunk, etc. The ceiling was ''naked'' from inside and for sure there were some vibrations because there was to support except one bracket in the middle and second i bought a cheaper material in roll form to absorb the sound.

@nta16 "Jaguar, if not leaks means has no oil" do io remember correct?

Contact cleaner or silicone?

Oh i didn't knew this. On the other hand there is no problem with the pressure inside the whole system with 600+ ml more on it?

So more quantity of oil = more time to get heat the whole amount, yes but in every day cool driving in City how much "dangerous" heat can be generated inside the gear box? In a track day yes but in traffic?

Do you need something more about Felicia A/C? https://www.skodabook.ru/en/remain/Felicia/power/cooling/sistema-kondicionirovaniya-informaciya-i-predostorozhnosti

But from previous change some quantity of oil will remain inside,can not 100% come out no matter what. On top of it 3 litres?

Bulbs changed, Led 2,5W at 5500K 👍

75W-90 GL-4 gear oil, 2.2-2.4 litres Skoda says change after 60.000 Km but i will do a change after 30-40.000 Km

When i find time i will show what i have done. The idea began about 22 years ago but back then there was no help,no internet,no forums and not lot of choices for materials.

You need thin ones for this task but you won't get great results, for improving the ''rolling quality'' as we say here in GR (means reducing the sound while travelling in Highway) you need to buy plastic arches and install noise insulation beneath them. Some cars as Lexuts have them on from the factory. You can make a wheel-arch sound improving but this means cost and adds some weight.

Ι stongly suggest to look BENEATH the carpets,you may find dust-mud or corrosion marks from all these years and you must make a thoroughly cleaning. I am speaking by bad experience of course...

Replacing gearbox seals (Skoda Felicia) in english. https://www.skodabook.ru/en/remain/Felicia/transmission/gearbox/zamena-salnikov-korobki-peredach

Run your car normally till gets hot and the radiator spins,turn the heat to 4th scale and keep if for a while Sto and raise the hood while the engine is running at idle Wear gloves and take a cloth-towel,squeeze gently any coolant house you can reach especially the main,this will push the air bubbles to go to the top Cover the cap from the coolant expansion tank with the cloth-towel,unscrew it extremely softly,if a ''hisss" sound heard means you had air bubbles,continue and loosen one click more,maybe the ''hisss" sound will be heard again maybe not,one click more and the cap it's easily loosen till comes out By the way check the inside of the expansion tank for any detritus Turn of the heat to 0 and turn off the engine,screw the cap back but not with extremely force Return home and leave the car to cool off completely at night,next morning check the cap because one click tighten maybe needed (maybe not). You can check for leaks in a repair-shop,they have at least 2 ways to raise the pressure in the system and if there is a problem then coolant drops will show-up in the problematic spot.