D.FYLAKTOS

How To Check Your Car Battery Voltage https://www.hondaofslidell.com/how-to-check-your-car-battery-voltage-slidell-la/ How to Test Your Battery Voltage with a Voltmeter https://www.goauto.ca/blog/how-to-test-your-battery-voltage At idle, most charging systems will produce 13.8 to 14.3 volts with no lights or accessories on. A discharged battery will have a voltage of about 11.2 volts or less.

What the chemists do inside it's their work but as long as i live i have never heard or read comments as ''let's take from the A has more fresh fuel than the B" Even the guys which make the programmes for cars with 700+ HP here in Greece have safeguards because they don't know if the driver pushes the car winter or summer. Yes for the turbo-guys things are better than hot summer but this is another story. The fact is that we don't import fuel for decades now as other countries do.

I cannot buy new rims at the moment, i am stuck with the 5.5. 😐

In our 1.3 Felicia the weight distribution is 62 front and 38 rear, i don't know for your model but if happens what the @Thefeliciahacker said your car will has a major brake problem especially on curbs. I don't think that the factory brake regulator can handle the new situation and you have to buy a new one, to make some brake tests to find the proper adjustments etc, does it worth it?

The charging voltage gets really low, around 12 volts and under when coming to a stop or at idle. Maybe you have the same issue. Together we might be able to figure this out. In this video I attempt to solve a low voltage issue I'm having in my 1995 GMC Suburban 5.7L. I recently installed Flex-A-Lite dual electric fans in place of my stock clutch fan and they work great but I'm now having a low voltage issue while idling at a stoplight. I've also upgraded my stock 105 amp alternator to a Powermaster 140 amp.

No news from the ECU programmer, i feel sad and i am worry. The battery VooDoo guy made a mistake, it's common practise to connect the negative always last (he should spray and remove the detritus). No. Since the 60's we have 4 Oil Refineries, we buy from them no matter the brand. https://www.helpe.gr/en/the-group/from-past-to-present/ " is acquired by the Greek State which fully controls the refining, distribution and trading of oil products." https://www.moh.gr/en/company/about-us/ " It has the capacity to process various types of crude oil and manufactures a wide range of oil products. It supplies commercial oil companies in Greece, but the bulk of its production is sold abroad. Moreover, it is the only refinery that produces base oils in Greece." I think only Shell V-Power 100 Racing was imported back in the middle of 2000 era.

These can be found in a Greek gas station. For many of us is like kind of ''second nature" move, to be honest after so many years we don't search it too much, some guys do it some not.

΅The reason that we do this is because we think that pressing the clutch frees the engine from the gearbox resistance at start-up, making the starter and battery work easier, also that if the battery is not in perfect condition and it's very cold outside this way those crucial seconds will make her task one click easier. At cold start we turn the key, wait till the sound of the relay stops, press the clutch with gear on Neutral and turn the key. When the motor starts immediately we release the clutch and let the car idle, we use that trick for decades, everybody knows it here. Has nothing to do with laptop-software etc. 1) Remove both poles from battery press the horn and turn the alarm (of course nothing will happen but this removes any remain ''electricity" from the whole circuit remove the plastic clips from the ECU unit plugs (the small one has one and the second has two) spray on the pins a little bit of Contact Cleaner wait for few minutes put the plugs back, pout the safety clips and connect the 2 poles turn the key, wait for a minute and pull it off put it back, turn it and when the motor starts drive normally foe few kilometres. 2) You have to visit a repair-shop, for FREE the mechanic will connect a laptop or a portable device to your OBD 1 port that you have on the right side, in few seconds he will find if there are any errors and will erase them.

From 2:16 till 3:21 the idle was 900 rpm, mine is 1100 rpm for 3:40 minutes. Have you ever made a restart to your ECU unit? Some of us do it just till the motor starts, it's for 2 seconds and of course not till we engage the 1st gears because this would ruin our clutch.

Because any mechanic will tell you to start checking first of all the engine with a scanner tool and then: valves, sensors, injectors, fuel pressure, spark plugs, filter etc. After you check and exclude all the above what's left? What's the last resort? The chip (programme) but in this case only a programmer can help, not a local Skoda repair-shop. Felicia is an old model, the today's owners have ''ready" programmes as ABT and sometimes with remote control they can change the modes (City,Sport,Racing etc). On the web some advertise ''ready to use" Chip tuning devices but isn't a risk? I am in great agony my fellow Felician for the today's news. 🥺

Yes but we don't speak about a 20VT 3rd stage 500HP Audi S3 he didn't ''go crazy" with the programme and after 17 years only a specific problem occurred and to be honest maybe a part of fault was mine (wrong valves gap, wrong spark plugs reference, very dirty MAP and Lamda etc).

How To Tune Cold Starts | Cold Start Performance As you can image all the above are ''chinese'' to me. He knows my car's problem with high fuel consumption at cold start and in the first kilometres in city driving, when my car is in normal 'C or when i am travelling-sport driving the MPG is excellent. Yesterday first of all we had an extensive conversation of the cold start symptoms and what i have change trying to fix the problem, one by one we check everything and he said next day he will check it on the Dynamometer plus "about 20 things". Today he telephone me and said that the problem is in a specific sector of the ECU, at noon he will receive another ECU and make his magic things or if there is a need he will wrote from the beginning a new programme. I can't explain things that i don't know or i am not sure that he will said to me with complete details, at the bottom line he is a pro, he gives a guarantee for his work and takes no money for that kind of repairs so it would be an ingratitude to start making questions of how he operates.

I am not an electrician but i have heard that the ECU has that kind of ''sector". First of all is obvious to me by the TC-6 and second i think via his laptop in dynamometer, emission analyser and his AFR gauge can understand that something goes wrong. Of course i don't know how he works but keep in mind that in year 1999 was the first of all in Greece which started to work with ECU-chips. https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/cold-starting/ Guys like him with 21+ years of experience in tuning do things that guys like me can not understand.

Update: Today the programmer told me that my ECU has a problem especially the ''cold start" chip that's why i burn too much fuel in the beginning of each route. Tomorrow another ECU will be installed to make some tests and let's hope that the problem will be solved.

Let's solve 🙏 the 2 years problem 😒 first and then we will see.

They are metal workers ''by experience" and not Mechanical Engineers, you are not present when they work thus the diameter isn't proper, the welding work is not good etc. When you discover the mistake? On the road (poor performance, high fuel consumption) and when you lift the car for other cause and you see what they have done.

I thought it many times but maybe in my next change (after i solve the problem with the city fuel consumption).

I change them before 2 years ago, the previous had some not so good curves and the diameter was 48mm so the new technician told me that he would make me a new set at 45mm.

I didn't touched the pedal, the rev jumped to 1100 and stayed there for 3+ minutes, then dropped to 850. That's my problem for more than a year, when the car's motor has ''cooled" for few hours then i have this phenomenon.

Weather (rain, moisture, sun) is different, the roads here are more slippery than yours, the quality of asphalt isn't the same, the geometry on the curbs isn't good as in yours, he have more road patches and potholes etc. We read reviews yes but we are very sceptical because a Uniroyal RainExpert maybe it's good tyre for Scotland or another country with heavy rainy days but here in Greece it would be a failure (noise, wear, fuel consumption). Nor NanoEnergy 3 nor the Proxes Comfort of Toto have 175/60 tyres on 14 wheels.

Here is another video of last night just few seconds till the needle drops to 850 rpm, now is about 1000. https://i.imgur.com/6liowjL.mp4 It's 9:14 and before the minute close and goes to 9:14 the idle was as it should be so there is a gap of 3+ minutes, for that time the idle is 1100-1000 which is not good. I can not find the solution. 😠

You must click on the sound icon to turn the Sound ON.

The video is with sound, i uploaded in purpose with this so everyone can here the motor when it starts. I used Best Camera application with macro, it was night and i was in a hurry to return home. Today the car is in the ECU-programmer so last night i had only one chance to take a video.

The tyres will come with courier's truck which means tremendous cost for shipping plus they will leave it to your door, then you have to carry those tyres to your car and then to a local tyre-shop. You will pay 25 euro for installation and of course the owner will stare at you, if something goes wrong you are alone, everybody will say ''you take them, your responsibility". If the DOT is not recent what happens? You will return them back to Germany? Nah.. I installed Brembo disks about 17 years ago, had for many years Ferodo brake pads and recent i turned to Brembo after an incident. Many cars here after a rain and if the owner don't move them for few days got some light ''rust" but after 2 brakes this disappeared. Having fuel consumption ONLY in city about 12.4-14 ltr/100 Km is unacceptable, for that kind of MPG i am concern, this means that something is wrong and i waist money in gasoline plus this ruins my motor. We use mainly Summer tyres here, very few use All Weather. Toyo Proxes are given as ''premium" and Hankook Kinergy Eco as ''factory installed", Toyo are a liitle bit on the ''Sport side". After about 17 years in 175/60 it's difficult to turn to 165/65, it may be more comfortable in the city but for Sport driving i doubt.

Here is mine, night 9:11 o'clock in a basement 5 floors below earth with much higher temperature than outside but with air not so thick. See the needle, it goes about 1100 rpm and stays there for at least 3+ minutes. https://i.imgur.com/Yy9NZgh.mp4 and look what's happening after those minutes. Everything goes to normal, i think i going to ''snap'' and start breaking things here.