D.FYLAKTOS

In the end the main coolant hose has that clamp https://www.aldenpoolsandplay.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/hose-clamp-2.jpg althopugh i don't know if was betetr with these clamps https://www.wurthusa.com/medias/sys_master/images/images/hf3/h7e/8809920430110/15470013.jpg Here ia a great Clamps test

After what happened to me with VIKA rear windscreen wiper motor i don't want to buy any crucial (especially electrical) part again.

Here is as it looked after the installation. I will check the screws on the clamp in the end and back in the thermostat after few days (contraction-dilation circles). I also took some pictures from the cluster gauge to make a comparison with the previous situation but for sure now with the new radiator things are better. I noticed also a small delay on the first spinning of the radiator fan.

Here is the main coolant hose, the mechanic had pushet it all the way back to the end and the clamp hose was a quality one but after 2 years 9same month, same hour) decide to ''escape''. In the local VW Group parts weren't available other brands except VIKA so i had to compromise. I can't say that i am happy.

A proper cable from negative pole to the car's body will do the job. https://www.skoda-parts.com/data/items/278/5da96621b81ea_xl.jpg 1K0 971 250 The throttle body is 100% clean? Vacuum hose is checked thoroughly? I have Felicia but the temperature needle works one click different here in Favorit.

Well done ! By the way can you tell us your opinion on a coolant matter? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/512393-cooling-system-problem-again-in-my-felicia/page/2/#comment-5938501 G12, G12 Plus, G13.

The @tedvegas has already from 2012 coolant G12 or G12 plus. His impressions would help a lot.

Silicate additives for use in radiators with aluminium. G13 contains some silicate additives for that additional healing aluminium protection. This is contrary to some earlier specifications that use OAT-technology (Organic Acid Technology). Silicate additives make G13 ideal for long-term use in all modern radiators, especially those constructed from aluminium, cast iron and magnesium alloys. On the other hand, G13 is not the best choice for older cooling systems with copper/brass radiators and heater cores. It doesn’t work well with the lead solder. Use antifreeze with G11 or G12 specification instead.

It's very difficult to find genuine Skoda Felicia parts. 6U9 821 821 https://www.maxildily.cz/Lapace-necistot-zadni-pro-Skoda-Felicia-combi-6U9821821A-6U9-821-821-A-d16013.htm?tab=description Ebay is a good source too. eBay2x Front Mud Flaps Splash Guards For Skoda Felicia 797 19...Installation Side Front Left+Right. Front Height [cm] 28.5. Width Front [cm] 21. Products that may also interest you. - For Front. Each set with includes mounting kit (as pictured). Everything tip...

G11: Old school antifreeze/coolant. Contains silicates, borates, and nitrates. G12: OAT antifreeze/coolant. No silicates, nitrate and borate free. G12++: HOAT antifreeze/coolant. Contains some silicates. No nitrates or borates. G13: HOAT antifreeze/coolant. Contains some silicates and glycerin made from renewable sources as a substitute to some of the ethylene glycol. No nitrates or borates

It's Nissens, https://nissens.com/radiator a company that bought the AVA (all or a part of it) https://ava-cooling.com/ i didn't want to buy a VIKA.

The symptoms in a vacuum leak (in my case) was unstable idle at low rpm and suddenly needle drooping from middle rpm to low or in steady idle. Check that small rubber hose it's an easy task, check the connection in front (to the regulator) or in the end (intake manifold) and use tie-wraps or in the middle if there is a crack.

As for the total cost: Radiator 66 € 2 bottles of G12 Plus 20€ Distilled water 2 € Coolant main hose 6 € Mechanic 80 € and Taxi (go to work-back home) 15 €

For two days i haven't notice any discoloration, the coolant looks ''lighr red'' or some sort of ''rouge''.

Yes look the same but are not the same, bottles are identical and the only difference is the colour of the cap and low-left says P999-G12 and the other P999-G12plus. The colour inside the expansion tank is https://avivfashion.gr/images/mats_aviv/15680/3_650.jpg versus this https://avivfashion.gr/images/mats_aviv/16157/3_650.jpg That G12 Plus is not intense like cap shows.

I have another ''issue'', in my mind was HEPU G12 as antifreeze and ordered 2 bottles (concentrated) and a plastic tank of distilled water, all arrived with delivery in the repair-shop the mechanic put them inside the system, made the necessary pressure tests plus a thermostat-opening test, few minutes driving around the block and telephone me ''everything OK, it's ready to take it". Later my eye caught the empty bottles, were not G12 but G12 Plus ! The seller made a mistake, the mechanic didn't pay attention because the bottles are identical and the colour looked like same. In the first seconds i was shocked, i didn't remember if G12 was mixable with G12 Plus because the last thing that i needed was a coolant flush and replacement ! I saw that are fully compatible and that was a reassuring thing for me because no matter what, some G12 was left inside the engine. I know that @Thefeliciahacker will say to put G13 but i don't think so. Me too, so many additives in that old original radiator, some detridus from previous Sealants etc, for sure that poor-guy was abused and not clean inside. A made a quick test at Saturday, everything is fine but today i will take some photos from the instrument cluster gauge to see the position of the needle (same route-same hour) if it's one click lower and pay attention to hear when the radiator fan will start spinning for first time.

I had the thught to use an epoxh glue but: I didn't knew anyone to have done such a thing, there was no ''insuranse'' that will last plus in case that the coolant hose was damaged and i had to replace it then i had top use heater-gun plus sandpaper to remove any glue remains. Now i took the change and i replace the radiator, the poor-guy had suffered 25 years with so many addtives inside and for sure it's performance would be reduced.

Here is the original radiator AUTOPAL, old and dusty when removed. Before 2 years at least the half socked broke plus one piece more so the water hose had no bulge for support and was easy someday to slip outside. The funny thing was that it happened the same month, same time and only 50m far away from the previous time.

Sad news. Exactly 2 years later the same problem occurred, luckily i manage to stop the car quickly without overheating problems. The engine bay is almost full of coolant and smells awful, i don't want to risk it and make a temporary repair so i will change the whole radiator (and the hose plus coolant). For sure i didn't wanted VIKA, other brands as Mahle-Valeo-AVA were not available for the same day, I will install the NISSEN 64011 ,part code 6U0121251. For antifreeze the same HEPU G12, i will post later the whole cost and relative matters.

Another engine bay surpsise yesterday: The main coolant hose popped-up from the radiator socket and coolant came out, today i am in the repair-shop. For 3rd time in her life my Trusty is on the Road Assistance truck, ''wounded". 😪

I have somewhere in a mail extra rules, are not those of the link, they send them to me just after register. I have an account but no posts, i don't like all these rules and still all these years no Felicia members. Coincidence? No applications as others models have, even in indicators have no titles ! I have post some pictures, if feel they cheat me i have an almost useless OBD reader, i see indications but i don't know what are they so to do what with them?

No applications available for felicia. they have a forum https://forum.obdeleven.com/board/6/koda but i read the rules they are so strictly that almost forbid a member to ask something that in the past some other member mention. https://forum.obdeleven.com/board/50/felicia So the result of this foolish Moderation attitude is no one has ever been open a thread.

Yes. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/492909-obdeleven-diagnostics/#findComment-5537183 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/515077-which-obd/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/524233-obd-reader/page/2/#findComment-5860748 With my photos ''in action". https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/524233-obd-reader/page/2/#findComment-5876506

In Felicia the speedometer wire has a square nose which goes 1cm inside the teflon plastic socket and the 2 ''ears'' they ''click'' and hold it place. is the nose comes out for a reason you hear a characteristic ''Tzzzz'' sound as it bounches. In Favorit is like this https://www.ekodiely.sk/galeria/produkty/max/2022/07/20/38792204178-1658301702.jpg more robust connection. https://scdn.autodoc.de/catalog/categories/600x600/10661.png At tachometer https://media.pazar3.mk/Image/727ff982-5a49-4920-a626-fdfef011e110/20210805/false/False/1280/1024/skoda-favorite.jpeg?noLogo=true the suddenly prm jump from 2500 to 8000 (it's the limit) means gauge proplem or possible connection (plug) issue.

Some modern OBDII scanners they don't support the Felicia's ISO14230 (KWP2000) protocol which uses for communication between ECU,sensors and OBD socket. Here is one that i tested and never-ever worked because is an OBD II and we have OBDI (or plain OBD). Also those cheap Chinese also they do not work! So @DemoVrh is the connections are the proper but the scanner does not work, you can not do anything about it. I paid for 2 and lost money and time-effort, the OBD11 works (but has no fancy gauges on your smartphone) and the VCDS via laptop.