D.FYLAKTOS

I have read about this in the past, saw some videos but i let it go due some other matters that i had to take care. In the past i have used some other methods as foam inside the airways and a spray inside the cabin https://www.sonax.com.au/cdn/shop/files/action.jpg?v=1652248204&width=720 with a/c on and the recycle air button in On position. Few years ago i went to a repair-shop to open the a/c from the front (engine bay) and give a thoroughly cleaning of the evaporator. Few weeks ago i remember the Dettol it and i had the thought to give it a try. I have found in my cabinet a spare (non used) extra-long plastic nozzle which was for an a/c cleaning foam spray and surprisingly it fitted perfect in the Dettol can so i use it as we usually do with the other a/c sprays. https://www.moje-auto.pl/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/19-535_MOJE_AUTO_-_Nano_Preparat_do_Czyszczenia_Klimatyzacji_200ml_12_670f6ece974c6-650x434.jpg

The "glossy" black in console will create you some problems, even the tiniest grain of dust will be visible plus the reflections from the sun in summer will be annoying.

Another (unpleasant of course) surprise, Top Mount. The previous mechanic in the Koni rebuild task at 2023 told me that the top mounts were ''OK'' but recently i had some vibrations when i was in uphill in 2nd gear, i had to brake and downshift in 1st and then i had to accelerate. I went to my mechanic and raise it in the lifting jack and telephone me that would be a good idea i to replace them. MONROE MK069 6U0 412 249 6U0 412 355 The mechanic said that in the driving test the front suspension was ''more tight'' than before but i have no personal experience because those days due to the good weather i am using my small motorcycle to go to work. In few days i will go to a small Mountain Road near by for some turns but i wonder do i need a front-end alignment or not?

Koni Street, i have tested them with Eibach and Apex lowering springs. https://www.koni.com/products-car-strt Product complements OEM or performance lowering springs https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/519830-koni-street-rebuilt/

Not identical but looks much better, what did you done?

But that i was meaning, one by one you ''disqualify'' sectors and find the last one which must be the problematic point. Many times due to the weather/environment (cold-moisture-dust) a driver can hear sound from that area especially in the morning cold start, has happened to me in the past, sometimes was nothing and stopped after few seconds, in one case was the belt, in another case was the pulley (dirt inside the grooves) and in another were the pulley's bearings. If a drives has the car for long time with stock pulleys a change of all of them (with a new belt when it's time) would be a bad idea.

For instance anything (from few drops or water or a small burst of WD-40) will make the squeeking sound of the belt to stop for a while but it can not stop if it's from a pulley. First find if it's belt or not and then try to spot a sound from a metal part using a long screwdriver this way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U927cYhQXB4

Did you accidentally touch the upper part of the bulb with bear hands? Those bulbs were from a quality brand or bulk? Plus this above.

I will grab the chance to mention the behaviour of some new mechanics-sellers-engineers here in GR, we the older guys we call that as ''Neohellenic". I went to the shop (already a retail customer for years) and asked for explanations why he send to the repair shop G12 Plus while i ordered G12, the answer was ''this is what i had'', i said to him that in the past i had bought myself G12 and i remember even the position in the shelf. ''i never had G12'' he answered and as you can understand the guy was trying to deceive me, he just could say ''G12 was out of stock and i couldn't order at that time from the provider". That guy he just lost a customer and next time that i will hear a whine "the business does not going well, i will shut the store soon" etc my first though will be ''it's 100% your fault". Since i can not compare G12 with G12 Plus (i have changed the radiator) in performance ''just in case'' i ordered from another store G12. https://www.teclub.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/80053-TD-Coolant-Concentrate-G12-G12-EN-v2.pdf although this concerns me a bit: I read that some guys don't keep it 5 years:

Everything fine with the new radiator, i saw nothing more than benefits. I am conducting some tests for the Fuel Consumption in City traffic-Mountain roads and i will post photos soon. It's impossible to compare the G12 with the G12 Plus because the second added when the new radiator installed, if i had use it with the old-factory then yes i would have the comparison data.

Here are some other photos, arrived at work with outside temperature 26 'C, parked and waited till the radiator fan stops, took a photo (the indication is one tiny click lower that the previous situation). In purpose i let the car idling for more till the radiator fan start spinning again, i let it for more time (no incoming air to the radiator) to push it to see the maximum that the needle will reach and stayed there, that was the end of the test.

@skoda_cat God bless your hands, wish you the best with your resto-mod !

With the factory radiator and with the new Aftermarket. The new is tested for few days an only in City driving.

The mechanic suggested me if i didn't want to replace the radiator to insert the hose again back and tighten the clamp and this could last few months or a year but my answer was ''NO". I don't know if there are silicone hoses for Felicia as exist for other brands https://www.mishimoto.com/automotive/silicone-hoses.html but if i bought a universal silicone hose and bent is a bit in the end towards the thermostat would be like the factory style, i mean a bit wider.

The length-diameter was for this radiator https://kritosparts.gr/Part/KOLARO-PSYGEIOU-NEROU-ANO-SKODA-FELICIA-11210141101/e92511210141101 This was the older The main problem was that the radiator's plastic socked was broke and a half part of it was ''available'' to get the hose inserted. The mechanic pushed the hose as deep he could and tighten the clamp closest to the main radiator as he could. For 2 years i haven't even a drop as leak but suddenly...boom !

In the end the main coolant hose has that clamp https://www.aldenpoolsandplay.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/hose-clamp-2.jpg althopugh i don't know if was betetr with these clamps https://www.wurthusa.com/medias/sys_master/images/images/hf3/h7e/8809920430110/15470013.jpg Here ia a great Clamps test

After what happened to me with VIKA rear windscreen wiper motor i don't want to buy any crucial (especially electrical) part again.

Here is as it looked after the installation. I will check the screws on the clamp in the end and back in the thermostat after few days (contraction-dilation circles). I also took some pictures from the cluster gauge to make a comparison with the previous situation but for sure now with the new radiator things are better. I noticed also a small delay on the first spinning of the radiator fan.

Here is the main coolant hose, the mechanic had pushet it all the way back to the end and the clamp hose was a quality one but after 2 years 9same month, same hour) decide to ''escape''. In the local VW Group parts weren't available other brands except VIKA so i had to compromise. I can't say that i am happy.

A proper cable from negative pole to the car's body will do the job. https://www.skoda-parts.com/data/items/278/5da96621b81ea_xl.jpg 1K0 971 250 The throttle body is 100% clean? Vacuum hose is checked thoroughly? I have Felicia but the temperature needle works one click different here in Favorit.

Well done ! By the way can you tell us your opinion on a coolant matter? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/512393-cooling-system-problem-again-in-my-felicia/page/2/#comment-5938501 G12, G12 Plus, G13.

The @tedvegas has already from 2012 coolant G12 or G12 plus. His impressions would help a lot.

Silicate additives for use in radiators with aluminium. G13 contains some silicate additives for that additional healing aluminium protection. This is contrary to some earlier specifications that use OAT-technology (Organic Acid Technology). Silicate additives make G13 ideal for long-term use in all modern radiators, especially those constructed from aluminium, cast iron and magnesium alloys. On the other hand, G13 is not the best choice for older cooling systems with copper/brass radiators and heater cores. It doesn’t work well with the lead solder. Use antifreeze with G11 or G12 specification instead.

It's very difficult to find genuine Skoda Felicia parts. 6U9 821 821 https://www.maxildily.cz/Lapace-necistot-zadni-pro-Skoda-Felicia-combi-6U9821821A-6U9-821-821-A-d16013.htm?tab=description Ebay is a good source too. eBay2x Front Mud Flaps Splash Guards For Skoda Felicia 797 19...Installation Side Front Left+Right. Front Height [cm] 28.5. Width Front [cm] 21. Products that may also interest you. - For Front. Each set with includes mounting kit (as pictured). Everything tip...

G11: Old school antifreeze/coolant. Contains silicates, borates, and nitrates. G12: OAT antifreeze/coolant. No silicates, nitrate and borate free. G12++: HOAT antifreeze/coolant. Contains some silicates. No nitrates or borates. G13: HOAT antifreeze/coolant. Contains some silicates and glycerin made from renewable sources as a substitute to some of the ethylene glycol. No nitrates or borates