D.FYLAKTOS

I first installed that hose without having seen this video. Listen what he says at 4:19 ,so i did the right thin ! As we say here: ''Better late than never".

The reason that i reinstalled the hose from the grill to bring more air inside the air filter box is this: The photo is from a Julian Edgar's video. As for the results from the new test, well they were as the ones in the 1st test which means ''positive". In purpose i engaged in hard City traffic (behind buses or taxis, right lane mainly etc), i wanted to see the behaviour of the car (now were receives more air) when it's too hot and how the modified air filter box works in low rpm (low speed in traffic). I had to go in a boulevard for a while but i didn't wanted to stay long, i wanted to test the whole situation in hard City traffic with sun at noon in high temperatures. The car accelerates smoothly and the same happens when i release the gas pedal and the rpm drop, for example from 3rd gear i leave the gas pedal, little brake, put neutral and stop for a traffic light. No problem in City traffic, no hesitation, no abrupt behaviour and yes in 2000 rpm and 3rd gear in the same uphill things were not ideal but that is not a problem. The Fuel Consumption was lower that all the previous and i have photos to post as proof, i will make an Update soon.

The initial spot was there, before the factory one but there was an accident (Chinese metal...sigh) and i had to remove it from here. According to what @Papez wrote there https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/522126-three-g11-coolant-mixtures-boiling-cooling-time-comparison/?do=findComment&comment=5837357 the difference between the 3 solutions is very small, 30 seconds

Coolant comparison test | AUTODOC Interesting.

Can not translate them to Greek, no meaning. The factory takes indication from the coolant sensor and the after market from the lower hose, when the thermostat is closed of course shows much less, when the thermostat has opened and hot coolant returns to the expansion tank shows one click less because the lines on the factory are not so good in reading.

So no difference in performance? I mean in coolant, does get hot with more delay than G11?

@Thefeliciahacker what difference in performance you have seen now with G13 compared to the green G11 that you had?

OK, the "Official Skoda" repair shops here promote the G12 "because it's better for the sensors". They don't justify this but no one says in which sector is better compared to G11.

The left analogue gauge in the console reads the coolant temperature between the expansion tank and the radiator. Always is one click less than the one in the cluster.

G11, 80-85 'C thermoswich in radiator, 88 'C thermostat. I was in a fuel consumption test in City traffic, 1-2 o'clock at noon under sun.

Ukraine.

It's in my next plan that flush, i already have bought the additive and distilled water. I want to move to the G12 but take a look my G11 today, at least 25 Km distance at noon, under the hot sun in very hard City traffic situation, i was moving like a taxi but when i finally parked take a look at the gauge. The G12 is going to give me better or at least the same protection against overheating?

@zeka95 first some WD-40, let it soak, wipe the excess and then a heat gun and a hammer like this .

I have found a relative video for Felicia. Take a look at 8:11

For educational purposes: Brake caliper front right hand (14'' wheels, without brake pads & mounting kit) https://www.motomobil.com/en/products/brake-caliper-front-right-hand-14-wheels-without-brake-pads-u-mounting-kit-45241312-2

Sometimes depending on the angle, the sun reflects especially on that chrome square frame of the console. Yes, beauty demands sacrifices.

@Thefeliciahacker you see a lot of cables due to console and ashtray project plus i have installed rear electric windows.

I have tinted windows which reduce a bit the temperature from the sun. Brushed aluminium or chrome knobs are prone to scratches and reflections. I choose this one because had those 2 o-rings which help the grabbing especially in summer (Mountain Roads driving).

This is an old photo from my gear stick (knob changing and a small modification in the part beneath it) How it looks now, many things must removed to work properly.

Some of the signs of a faulty Timing Belt. Same bad signs as for 1.3 which has a Pulley Belt (and Timing Chain). 5 years for the Timing Belt too.

@Mustafa_Samir : I presume your engine starts nornally and has not symptoms of luck of power, since you don't see any wear signs and you hear no noise (as we with the Pulley Belt) you are not in danger. As a precution in the next service or engine repair install a new one Timing Belt and you would be OK.

IF i do the project it would be with a used one, not the factory. I did the same with air filter box, kept as original the one and modify the other. I don't want to shorten the A part, i can not drive with a gear stick like this because my console is lower than this MX-5 and every time i have to bend so my hand can reach it.

Not for me, i have already installed and aftermarket knob which had 3 plastic cones as accessories to fit it properly. Now the height is as it should be, in M3 or MX-5 a factory short gear shift it suits, not in my case. GR is not USA where everyone can sue anybody and ask for compensation. Many years ago an American cigar smoker sued a cigar manufacturer because one night fell asleep in his couch with the cigar in his hand and later put the blame for the fire on the cigar company.

Here as is in the manual, high resolution photo which don't fit in a post so i put a link. https://img.7zap.com/images/oem/vag3/SK/Bilder/101/101711000.TIF.png Shortening the A is not an option, making bigger the B is but i have to find an electro welder to take the responsibility. Even so, how much length? 2-4-6cm longer?

Haynes does not say anything but i have found something useful in the manual.