D.FYLAKTOS

Normal for GR. You know the "ασε ρε που θα καθομαι εγω να ασχολουμαι" style. I would prefer the "i will do it but i need the •••• amount of money, does this suits you?"

If there was a kit for Felicia in the market i could give a try but now it's a risk to make a modification. As for the humour we always prefered Benny Hill, we don't lough with any other style. By the way in the classic cars in case of Mechanical over-rev there were no safety features to save the engine?

I have "broke" many factory rules so far. The repair shops here grouching if you ask from them such a detailed task, they prefer the ''come to empty the old coolant, add the new, pay and go" procedure.

I wonder it's better to add the Radiator Flush into the existing coolant and rinse (after let it work) or remove it, add tap water with the RF and then (after let it work) rinse?

The radiator in Felicia (VW group) has no pressure cap, it's "closed circuit" as they say it here. Refill of coolant only via the expansion tank.

One mistake in 24 years is acceptable, i did't looked the rpm that time, i was in an overtake and my eyes were in the road ahead. A turn was in front of me and i wanted to catch it. No Felicia quick shift in the market as there are for other models. No video about the installation and no opinions from other Felicia drivers so i can not know about the feeling. I can improvise but the risk is 100% mine, if it does not work i have to pay a lot to install a new gear stick. It's a very difficult decision.

I will do it, i have led cree flash light with about 6100K. I see no muck so far in the mouth-cap even at the bottom as the previous had.

I have 2 thoughts: 1) rinse, add a cleaner and tap water for few Kms, rinse, add distilled water and G12 2) leave it few months more so the whole system will boil for good in summer and do the work in my birthplace where i have space to work and garden hose.

It's very difficult with a smarthpone to take clear pictures of the content but i have tried with a fladh light on the side to shed some light inside. The ''mouth" isn't dirty, the cap was very clear. For sure there was no ''mess'' like the previous expansion tank but it's not 100% clear. There are some glitetrs inside but not significant, only on the right side (not visible) there is tiny muck on the walls but not thick. The bottom of the plastic tank looks clear and i have not overheating problems, the whole system works fine.

For Quick Shifter except the possible stiffness my main concern is the possible accidentally Mechanical over-rev. In the past i have done some mistakes: first case, with 2th gear in Mountain Roads while chasing another car i pushed things too far, the rpm went far above the 5500 red line limit and must reached about 6200 rpm. In another 2 cases in Highway from 4th to 5th (no chasing this time) i went accidentally to 3rd, in all of the 3 cases the engine rev-up to the limit and turned-off itself. The ECU programmer's cutter saved my engine, we say it Cutter here because "it cuts the engine" and saves the motor.

Unfortunately the 3.40' is a ''rule'' for VW no matter the season but if there is one positive thing is that now with the modified air box filter in the first few hundered meters the car is one click smoother. Does not wan't to go forward as use to, it's not abrupt as before, i can't describe exactly that but for sure you have felt it in the carburettor days when the chock was pulled out and the engine was in a ''hurry'' mode. Fuel Consumption now is one click lower even in City traffic, i have photos to post and the TC-6 proves it.

I have done a 108 km distance test for this modified air filter box, results and photos (proof) soon. I removed that part to have space to work better and let some hot air from the manifold to go upward to "escape" easily. If i could i would remove the rest but i can not duplicate that Γ shape, i can not calculate the capacity of that plastic "tube" and i have not so much time for experiments with different size tubes etc to find "the best" for my driving style.

I like to search things and make modifications when i feel that would help me. I have looked in the past some times for quick shifter but the negative comments from drivers which installed aftermarket were more than the positive (except factory parts as in the video). The quest continues...

I have to agree of what he says in 2:17

Not often but can happen from wrong cable position (negative-positive) when you are out of battery and someone volunteered to give you power, moisture (wrong engine washing), corrosion in pins.

I have made 2 coolant changes, in purpose to remove the old ''contaminated'' fluid. Plus i have to find time to take photo from the expansion tank although looks clear at 90% at least.

It is not surprising that the: thermostat sensor, the thermostat itself and the main hose right after it are clean with no sludge or something sticky? I was worrying for the water pump too.

No, i have not. Separate the engine block? Where in the side of the road that i am working?

I have done from 2006 some experiments with additives in gasoline, you can still find them by Google search my nick name. You are referring to original Xylene, as with alcohol there is the original (expensive) and the fake (very cheap). One example are the "bomb drinks" that they serve in night-clubs.

What i have noticed in the Winder and only with the ENEOS 10W-40 was that even when the car was hot (the thermostat was opened at 1st scale, the radiator fan had already began spinning or was ready to) and as i was in the traffic light (same route, same hour every day) i noticed from the mirror smoke coming from the exhaust. Here is an example from other car, not too thick smoke but was present. Yes that's normal in Cold Starts in Winter and disappears after a while but in that case stayed more time than usual. I have the suspicion that maybe was gasoline's fault, i was using from a specific gas station but due to a scandal here in GR with Xylene i stopped visit it. No sign of that smoke in Spring so mustn't be the engine oil.

Already fixed years ago, whole kit installed. I alwayd loved the "click-click" gear changes of the ferrari Dino, take a look at this guy (with sandals) what does with his so expensive classic car.

I need to do the task 2 times, one for heater core and one for the radiator. With the thermostat closed (the car is cold) would be no coolant flow in the upper hose or to the expansion tank.

I have replaced my ECU, no problem with the new and the existing immobiliser of the car, the programmer did his "magic things" and works fine.

No morer additives for me, i will try to take some photos from inside the expansion tank to see if there is muck on the side walls. I wonder a combintaion of hot water and white vinegar for (fast) in-out procedure inside the heater core won't help?

Different Motorsport world, racing in oval tracks, mainly RWD, lot of displacement engines, 0-60 mph, dragster, big size car body, very wide tyres and donuts,ugly masks (car grill), no metric system etc which don't fit to our ways. First time i heard about Quick shift was before 25 years, in the beginning there were negative comments (too tight, too stiff) from the first drivers and was very expensive here, now things changed but no kit for Felicia. In the photo the gear stick is already big in height, in Felicia if i make it shorter will be like this: