D.FYLAKTOS

Few months ago i made an upgrade to my brakes, i already had Goodridge braided steel brake line so: I changed the Brembo Drilled discs with Plain, the Brembo brake pads with EBC Yellow and the normal DOT4 brake fluid with ATE TYP 200 Racing. Here are some photos of that day: Although the brake disc was brand new he put it for measurement and before the first use apply a spray, that's why looks like this (yes the calipers need new coat layer). The ''break-in'' period was 850 Km and after this start pushing things, the result is far better than previous combination. No noise, more tough feeling at the pedal, no so much fade, braking distances went smaller and i was far more confided braking after a straight line before a turn. So far i have about 3000 Km and i am extremely happy because let's face the truth i didn't had any other choices, i asked the mechanic (on of the Top here in brakes) and said with that 14" of course i can't use 4 piston calipers, if i wanted to use bigger calipers-discs from other car i had to show him that some other drivers did it-posted this in car forum and proved after long term use that's OK otherwise he didn't take the responsibility for ''experiments". My brakes now are far better than ever, i don't know in the future if i make another upgrade, i have to search about it deeper with the ''Safety first'' in mind.

These 1) don't fit in my driving style and i have that style since 1992. 2) don't work together with Apex lowering springs that i have. I read-hear about KONi rebuild from 2005, very common here in Greece and has official service shop with 1 year Warranty. About 21 years and had 82000 Km of use, were on the 3rd scale the last. I just returned from a 390 Km trip (Highway-Mountain Roads) and i am extremely happy with their performance.

My rebuilted Koni work as it should be, so far tested and approved in city traffic (small potholes, railroad tracks, emergency brakes etc.) and Mountain Roads (turns after a downhill straight-S curves-small saddle at the road junction etc). My car my rules, i do what i want and makes me happy...and yes i have to admit that another guy can beat me in banana tree climbing, sorry i can't do this. @J.R. You are right.

I am in the middle of the trip, very happy with Koni repair, huge difference on the road. I read about Koni repair from 2005 from other drivers which done this, everyone satisfied and never regret it.

About 21 years is like this. No issues with MOT plus i do alignment very often. No suspension mechanic warnings.

Unfortunately in the past we had only 1 track here and since was impossible for the majority of people to go there the solution was 1 and not so safe: Find a well known Mountain Road with no traffic and make some A to B and from B to A kilometres. Was most common for riders to suggest each other which road with turns was the best to test your suspension-engine modifications.

I have already said that HP Sporting were offered by Skoda dealer FAA 071001-8 in the SPORT section of red catalgue. http://www.hpsporting.cz Older topic here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/121107-where-to-get-hp-sporting-coilovers/ There is no service or parts for these here that's why i never bought them. ''All hands on deck" Many have bought and installed expensive and fancy coilovers but when you ask them for adjustment numbers they say ''Oh, i don't know, my mechanic knows". You need a track and many-many rounds to fit what's proper for your car since the B or C driver adjustments have no apply because you drive different than them. Back in my motorcycle days there were only 1-2 options for aftermarket coilovers and extremely difficult to find someone for rebuilt and the majority of ''sport'' riders were trying with the stock suspension, all of them were with a wrench and a screedriver in their bag. This set-up for City, this for Highway etc which sometimes was tiring and spastic.

Koni now has the STR.T Kit with H&R lowering springs, go for it ! https://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Products/Sport-Tuning/STR-T-Kit/ Grab the chance, many years back that option wasn't available. https://www.dpmperformance.co.uk/car-parts/seat/ibiza/koni-strt-25mm40mm-springs-shocks-suspension-kitibiza-6j-20082017-14tsi-14tdi-16tdi-19tdi-20tdi-inc-cupra-fr I suggest to don't go up to 40mm it's tool low for the GR road conditions, 30 or maximum 35mm is all you need. As for the record, Eibach lowering springs are 40mm and very stiff (i had them for many years), not so good for us, avoid them exept if you have your Felicia for Highways and Mountain Roads only. If i was living exclusively in country (no City) with good conditions roads i would choose that combination, excellent behaviour in Sport style driving.

1) I was sure that you didn't agree, i was expecting the: 2) No KW for Felicia in catalogue https://www.kwsuspensions.net/shop?c_make=106&c_model=1319&c_car=4735&ag= "0 Products " 3) Bilstein B4S here are for Taxi drivers, not for Sport driving because they can't plus they don't work together with lowering springs (as i have). Good for my father which is old man and drives very normal.

My Felicia has Koni Street shock absorbers https://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Products/Sport-Tuning/STR-T/ with Apex lowering springs https://www.apex-suspension.co.uk/products/performance-lowering-springs Also i have Top Mount changed before few years), a Skoda strut brace and Eibach Anti-Roll bar. The Koni were on the 3rd (last) scale,i pass the MOT few months ago with no problems but wasn't happy no matter if it was in City (potholes-small rails) or in Highway (after 130 Km) so it was to for a change or total repair. I choose the 2nd and i went to the official Koni Service here which uses original Koni parts and gives 1 year Warranty. Example from Uk https://www.koniuk.co.uk/about/service-repair According to the mechanic: pistons, teflon, O-rings, oils plus gaskets (especially those in rear were in not good condition) plus Alignment, the total cost was 250 euro or 217 £ (nice price because i am nice guy). It's too early for impressions, of course there is a huge improvement in City roads plus on emergency traffic brake but the speeds are low. I am a bit cautious, the real test in few days with Highway and Mountain Roads turns that i love. Sorry no photos from the step-by-step work.

Which crank sound ''you like more", the A or the B? I would love to see you rev up with 20W-50 in a mountain road and the sound of the engine at 4500+ rpm. A.mp3 B.mp3

So, this ''compressor style" for you it's the normal Cold Start for a Felicia 1300, me except that days that i had this stupid-monkey 15W-50 i haven't seen it for: a) The first years that my Felicia was Stock b) ALL the days that my Felicia is modified which means my car for 23 years has a problematic Cold Start from Day 1. According to video that i posted from my car https://i.imgur.com/Yy9NZgh.mp4 and other Felicia owners https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/129452-felicia-combi-13-what-oil/?do=findComment&comment=5812797 have the same Cold Starts as me (Not as yours) although in much lower temperatures. @HappySkoda had the same style Cold Start as me https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499328-how-much-time-do-you-warm-up-your-felicia/?do=findComment&comment=5610186 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/monthly_2021_12/IMG_20211212_122032.thumb.jpg.db9ec30da8ad0a3932608ef93ff6da62.jpg and not as yours. So: 1) Your car is far well maintained than yours and all of us have problem in Cold Start and he haven't admit at least 23 years? 2) We do something different than you for example different oil viscosity and quality? 3) We with 1100 rpm Cold Start have mental issues (like a moron Hahas) and we keep abuse our cars every morning?

Check the Typical Properties chart, almost identical. ENEOS Premium 10W40 https://oilgroupbg.com/pdf/eneos/eneos-premium-10w40.pdf ENEOS PRO 10W-40 (Premium 10W40) https://eneoseurope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/PDS-ENEOS-PRO-10W40-2020.pdf ENEOS PRO 10W-40 Specifications and Approvals: API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B4, VW 501.01/505.00, MB 229.1 Product Description: Synthetic engine oil, recommended for a wide range of gasoline and diesel engines. Because of the high viscosity index and the synthetic base stocks, it ensures an excellent cold start with outstanding lubricating film at high temperatures . Thanks to the chosen additive package, it takes care of the trouble-free functioning of the engine. In addition, together with the excellent detergent and dispersant properties, this oil guarantees a clean and reliable engine.

Mine: Maximun HP at 5513 rpm and maximum torque at 4186 rpm (Dyno) Stock: 5500 rpm and 3950 rpm (Dyno) Few options, i will think about it in the next oil change. Total describes it as "high performance multi-grade oilor passenger car, designed to exceed recent engine lubrication requirements for mineral engine oils." _____________________________ When someone says in a topic but keeps posting only to provoke people means one thing: as a kid he felt from a banana tree or coconut palm, hit his head and now the consequences appear.

I have done it twice, more Hp and torque than a stock Felicia.

Not for my car, first time heard that noise after 23 years. I don't like it and i don't want to hear that ''cement mixer" sound again, that's a fact. __________________________________________ Take a look at the needle, one click above 1000 rpm. I think about it all night, absolutely impossible to torture my car in Highway and in Mountain Roads in high rpm with that stupid 15W. Case Closed, never-ever again no mattter if they pay me for it, Eneos Premium 10W-40 Synthetic now is my new oil, with this i will make the trip (with my recently refurbished Koni suspension).

15W-50.mp3 Here is the engine sound from that cursed 15W-50 engine oil. See the sound graph, after the first crank the idle went to 900 rpm and stayed there, what i had all these years (needle at 1100 rpm and after 3:40 minutes to proper idle level) never-ever showed up with that ridiculous 15W-50 Total. One of the worst decision of my life was to put that 15W-50 in my car, a terrible mistake and i regret it so much. My Trusty was working like an old tractor and ripped my heart that i pushed more than 4000 with that stupid-crappy oil. All i want is to behead the bottle cap, hang the bottle, stab and shoot it, burn the remains and throw the ashes to the pit latrine. 🤬

OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT - DOES IT INDICATE THE QUALITY OF THE FILTER? Many people think that the quicker the oil pressure warning light goes off after replacing the oil filter, the better the quality of the installed filter. However, the time after the warning light goes off does not in any way indicate the quality of the filter. If the system works correctly, the light turns on because the newly installed filter is empty for a brief moment. After a few seconds, the oil from the oil gallery reaches the interior of the filter and the light goes off. There may be a problem if after starting the engine, the low oil pressure warning light does not go off after a while. In this case, turn off the engine immediately and check the engine oil level. Add more oil if necessary. If the warning light does not go off at the correct oil level, it may be caused by one of the following reasons: The oil pressure sensor may be malfunctioning. The cable between the warning light and the sensor may be damaged. The oil pump is not filled with oil (may be aerated). Obstruction of the line connecting the oil pump to the oil pan. High wear of the engine (bushes, bearings), and thus too low pressure in the oil gallery. The reason for the oil warning light not going off may also be the condition of the filter: The flow resistance may be too high due to the installation of an incorrect or weak filter Filling the filter after its expiry date By using FILTRON oil filters, you can be sure that if the oil pressure warning light does not go off after replacement then it is not related to a malfunction of the filter. Each FILTRON oil filter is manufactured on modern, automated production lines operated by qualified specialists. The effectiveness of our filters and the quality of the raw materials used are constantly monitored and controlled in our laboratory. https://filtron.eu/en/insights/filter-guide/oil-pressure-warning-light-meaning.html

Means what? Dynamometer? Which is what? I asked for Mahle OC 981 oil filter and the seller said no, the weird is that looked a guide as as refference was ton the Mann W7123/43 but other. He said has Meat & Doria 15193/9 ,on the label has VAG 5020700025 VAG Skoda and the Mann W712/43. I have made a video with that terrible cold start sound with that dumpiest of all oils the 15W, i will upload it soon.

No problem when it's hot, even with that useless 15W-50, that sound like a construction compressor heard it first time with 15W-50, never-ever had it at least for 15+ years with other viscosities. I don't know what the ''smth'' is. My Felicia for many years can reach the 6100 rpm, of course i don't push it till there but 5000 rpm with 2nd-3rd gear in Mountain Roads for me it's very common. Here are the results from tonight's round. That Total 15W-50 is nothing than disappointment and i blame the 15W for these terrible results and engine rough behaviour, it's like an 80's carburettor car with Choke control closed. I can't stand that cold start sound, all the dashboard is shaking like everything in there is slacken, it tears my heart out.

I manage to find an opportunity and made a small mountain route in the City, not the one that i was planed for my trip which is 80+ Km long. I tested the 15W-50 in 2nd-3rd gear at high rpm (more that 3500 which is the Green zone) many times (i couldn't engage 4th gear) making round around a small mountain, so let's start: 1) Turn the key, the needle went to 900 rpm, started up and down a bit and the whole car was trembling, the dashboard-plastics etc were shaking like they were in earthquake. The first thing that came to my mind was something from my childhood, the cement mixer of 70's https://static.car.gr/325256569_0_b.jpg Only slander words came to my mouth and i wish i could shoot the remaining bottle of that oil (i will send it to recycle). 😠 2) After the first shock i waited 1' and start rolling, things went quiet for some minutes and when the coolant temperature raised i started ''pushing things'' since there was to other car in front of me. FAILURE, the engine was hesitating, in two uphills with small inclination the engine refused to go more that 4000 rpm easily, in purpose i pushed till 5000 and i felt that i was close to a turbine with no earmuffs. No matter what (even in a downhill) the engine was showing me that didn't liked the 15W-50 and couldn't reach older rpm limits except if i want to torture the engine. This remind me the Castrol semi-synthetic that i have used in the past, good only for a guy which drives like a taxi. I was expecting it a bit and the prove was showed in front of my face, i was right, that damned-miserable-incompetent-cursed-useless engine oil is NOT for my car. I spend money and gasoline trying to test that wretched engine oil, i don't wanna see it in front of me ! Total waist, nothing more than a crappy oil. I will post two photos from fuel consumption for everyone who's not believe me, with 5W-40 with much more weight and after 80+ kilometres of sport driving i had 6,9 ltr / 100 Km or 40.94 British MPG With 10W-40 i had 7,1 ltr (39.79 British MPG) till 7,9 ltr (35.76 British MPG), when you see the one with the 15W-50 even the ''unbelieving Thomas'' will be convinced.

Oh, these? Since i haven't see something positive till now with 15W how can i be satisfied? It's like to wear a pair of boots, tough-thick leather for snow-mud etc but very tight in your foot and as you feel uncomfortable someone telling you ''keep wear them, they will protect you from winter very good". Rough cold starting, no good rev up, bad fuel consumption and still have more to see. I am not a prophet but i think after finishing my trip only ''bad'' words will come to my mouth for the behaviour of the engine with this 15W engine oil.

Since i am self-taught in english (by book) i can't understand abbraviations and Yankee ''movie style" idioms. 😉 I can not compromise with the idea that after 15+ years now i have that ''rough'' style cold engine starts only because of that damned 15W. The Highway and Mountain Roads test will come soon but i bet that this viscosity will let me down as he already did so far.

No video. As for the ''rough'' sound, for 15+ years after turning the key the needle was going to 1100rpm and after a 3:40-45 minutes was making a small dive, few seconds idle trembling and then at the right spot. Now with the 15W-50 everything is not good, i haven't see something positive except the sound of the engine when reaches the idle, it's a bit ''bass'' and that's it.