D.FYLAKTOS

Which crank sound ''you like more", the A or the B? I would love to see you rev up with 20W-50 in a mountain road and the sound of the engine at 4500+ rpm. A.mp3 B.mp3

So, this ''compressor style" for you it's the normal Cold Start for a Felicia 1300, me except that days that i had this stupid-monkey 15W-50 i haven't seen it for: a) The first years that my Felicia was Stock b) ALL the days that my Felicia is modified which means my car for 23 years has a problematic Cold Start from Day 1. According to video that i posted from my car https://i.imgur.com/Yy9NZgh.mp4 and other Felicia owners https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/129452-felicia-combi-13-what-oil/?do=findComment&comment=5812797 have the same Cold Starts as me (Not as yours) although in much lower temperatures. @HappySkoda had the same style Cold Start as me https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499328-how-much-time-do-you-warm-up-your-felicia/?do=findComment&comment=5610186 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/monthly_2021_12/IMG_20211212_122032.thumb.jpg.db9ec30da8ad0a3932608ef93ff6da62.jpg and not as yours. So: 1) Your car is far well maintained than yours and all of us have problem in Cold Start and he haven't admit at least 23 years? 2) We do something different than you for example different oil viscosity and quality? 3) We with 1100 rpm Cold Start have mental issues (like a moron Hahas) and we keep abuse our cars every morning?

Check the Typical Properties chart, almost identical. ENEOS Premium 10W40 https://oilgroupbg.com/pdf/eneos/eneos-premium-10w40.pdf ENEOS PRO 10W-40 (Premium 10W40) https://eneoseurope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/PDS-ENEOS-PRO-10W40-2020.pdf ENEOS PRO 10W-40 Specifications and Approvals: API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B4, VW 501.01/505.00, MB 229.1 Product Description: Synthetic engine oil, recommended for a wide range of gasoline and diesel engines. Because of the high viscosity index and the synthetic base stocks, it ensures an excellent cold start with outstanding lubricating film at high temperatures . Thanks to the chosen additive package, it takes care of the trouble-free functioning of the engine. In addition, together with the excellent detergent and dispersant properties, this oil guarantees a clean and reliable engine.

Mine: Maximun HP at 5513 rpm and maximum torque at 4186 rpm (Dyno) Stock: 5500 rpm and 3950 rpm (Dyno) Few options, i will think about it in the next oil change. Total describes it as "high performance multi-grade oilor passenger car, designed to exceed recent engine lubrication requirements for mineral engine oils." _____________________________ When someone says in a topic but keeps posting only to provoke people means one thing: as a kid he felt from a banana tree or coconut palm, hit his head and now the consequences appear.

I have done it twice, more Hp and torque than a stock Felicia.

Not for my car, first time heard that noise after 23 years. I don't like it and i don't want to hear that ''cement mixer" sound again, that's a fact. __________________________________________ Take a look at the needle, one click above 1000 rpm. I think about it all night, absolutely impossible to torture my car in Highway and in Mountain Roads in high rpm with that stupid 15W. Case Closed, never-ever again no mattter if they pay me for it, Eneos Premium 10W-40 Synthetic now is my new oil, with this i will make the trip (with my recently refurbished Koni suspension).

15W-50.mp3 Here is the engine sound from that cursed 15W-50 engine oil. See the sound graph, after the first crank the idle went to 900 rpm and stayed there, what i had all these years (needle at 1100 rpm and after 3:40 minutes to proper idle level) never-ever showed up with that ridiculous 15W-50 Total. One of the worst decision of my life was to put that 15W-50 in my car, a terrible mistake and i regret it so much. My Trusty was working like an old tractor and ripped my heart that i pushed more than 4000 with that stupid-crappy oil. All i want is to behead the bottle cap, hang the bottle, stab and shoot it, burn the remains and throw the ashes to the pit latrine. 🤬

OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT - DOES IT INDICATE THE QUALITY OF THE FILTER? Many people think that the quicker the oil pressure warning light goes off after replacing the oil filter, the better the quality of the installed filter. However, the time after the warning light goes off does not in any way indicate the quality of the filter. If the system works correctly, the light turns on because the newly installed filter is empty for a brief moment. After a few seconds, the oil from the oil gallery reaches the interior of the filter and the light goes off. There may be a problem if after starting the engine, the low oil pressure warning light does not go off after a while. In this case, turn off the engine immediately and check the engine oil level. Add more oil if necessary. If the warning light does not go off at the correct oil level, it may be caused by one of the following reasons: The oil pressure sensor may be malfunctioning. The cable between the warning light and the sensor may be damaged. The oil pump is not filled with oil (may be aerated). Obstruction of the line connecting the oil pump to the oil pan. High wear of the engine (bushes, bearings), and thus too low pressure in the oil gallery. The reason for the oil warning light not going off may also be the condition of the filter: The flow resistance may be too high due to the installation of an incorrect or weak filter Filling the filter after its expiry date By using FILTRON oil filters, you can be sure that if the oil pressure warning light does not go off after replacement then it is not related to a malfunction of the filter. Each FILTRON oil filter is manufactured on modern, automated production lines operated by qualified specialists. The effectiveness of our filters and the quality of the raw materials used are constantly monitored and controlled in our laboratory. https://filtron.eu/en/insights/filter-guide/oil-pressure-warning-light-meaning.html

Means what? Dynamometer? Which is what? I asked for Mahle OC 981 oil filter and the seller said no, the weird is that looked a guide as as refference was ton the Mann W7123/43 but other. He said has Meat & Doria 15193/9 ,on the label has VAG 5020700025 VAG Skoda and the Mann W712/43. I have made a video with that terrible cold start sound with that dumpiest of all oils the 15W, i will upload it soon.

No problem when it's hot, even with that useless 15W-50, that sound like a construction compressor heard it first time with 15W-50, never-ever had it at least for 15+ years with other viscosities. I don't know what the ''smth'' is. My Felicia for many years can reach the 6100 rpm, of course i don't push it till there but 5000 rpm with 2nd-3rd gear in Mountain Roads for me it's very common. Here are the results from tonight's round. That Total 15W-50 is nothing than disappointment and i blame the 15W for these terrible results and engine rough behaviour, it's like an 80's carburettor car with Choke control closed. I can't stand that cold start sound, all the dashboard is shaking like everything in there is slacken, it tears my heart out.

I manage to find an opportunity and made a small mountain route in the City, not the one that i was planed for my trip which is 80+ Km long. I tested the 15W-50 in 2nd-3rd gear at high rpm (more that 3500 which is the Green zone) many times (i couldn't engage 4th gear) making round around a small mountain, so let's start: 1) Turn the key, the needle went to 900 rpm, started up and down a bit and the whole car was trembling, the dashboard-plastics etc were shaking like they were in earthquake. The first thing that came to my mind was something from my childhood, the cement mixer of 70's https://static.car.gr/325256569_0_b.jpg Only slander words came to my mouth and i wish i could shoot the remaining bottle of that oil (i will send it to recycle). 😠 2) After the first shock i waited 1' and start rolling, things went quiet for some minutes and when the coolant temperature raised i started ''pushing things'' since there was to other car in front of me. FAILURE, the engine was hesitating, in two uphills with small inclination the engine refused to go more that 4000 rpm easily, in purpose i pushed till 5000 and i felt that i was close to a turbine with no earmuffs. No matter what (even in a downhill) the engine was showing me that didn't liked the 15W-50 and couldn't reach older rpm limits except if i want to torture the engine. This remind me the Castrol semi-synthetic that i have used in the past, good only for a guy which drives like a taxi. I was expecting it a bit and the prove was showed in front of my face, i was right, that damned-miserable-incompetent-cursed-useless engine oil is NOT for my car. I spend money and gasoline trying to test that wretched engine oil, i don't wanna see it in front of me ! Total waist, nothing more than a crappy oil. I will post two photos from fuel consumption for everyone who's not believe me, with 5W-40 with much more weight and after 80+ kilometres of sport driving i had 6,9 ltr / 100 Km or 40.94 British MPG With 10W-40 i had 7,1 ltr (39.79 British MPG) till 7,9 ltr (35.76 British MPG), when you see the one with the 15W-50 even the ''unbelieving Thomas'' will be convinced.

Oh, these? Since i haven't see something positive till now with 15W how can i be satisfied? It's like to wear a pair of boots, tough-thick leather for snow-mud etc but very tight in your foot and as you feel uncomfortable someone telling you ''keep wear them, they will protect you from winter very good". Rough cold starting, no good rev up, bad fuel consumption and still have more to see. I am not a prophet but i think after finishing my trip only ''bad'' words will come to my mouth for the behaviour of the engine with this 15W engine oil.

Since i am self-taught in english (by book) i can't understand abbraviations and Yankee ''movie style" idioms. 😉 I can not compromise with the idea that after 15+ years now i have that ''rough'' style cold engine starts only because of that damned 15W. The Highway and Mountain Roads test will come soon but i bet that this viscosity will let me down as he already did so far.

No video. As for the ''rough'' sound, for 15+ years after turning the key the needle was going to 1100rpm and after a 3:40-45 minutes was making a small dive, few seconds idle trembling and then at the right spot. Now with the 15W-50 everything is not good, i haven't see something positive except the sound of the engine when reaches the idle, it's a bit ''bass'' and that's it.

No Skoda in the list for W 610/3 Mann W 712/43 https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Oil Filter/W 712~43 Felicia: Engine code ccm kW HP Year of manufacture 1.3 135B, AMG 1289 40 54 10/94 → 08/01 1.3 136 B/M, AMH 1289 50 68 10/94 → 08/01 1.3 135L/AMJ 1289 43 58 10/94 → 08/01

5W and 10W were synthetics, even with 10W semisynthetic i didn't had this. Link not working. Sorry, an error occurred. Please reload this page. Error code: 910cfe72-5f7d-49d8-b63f-50e3702eed15-5 NO Skoda for Manhle OC 986 filter Product CatalogEurope/ Middle East/ Africa https://qr.mahle.com/eu/product.xhtml?eid=394043&r=0.14164952527947017 Only Mahle OC 981 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oil-filter-10359/skoda/felicia/felicia-ii-6u1/11193-1-3?supplier[0]=10223

I remembered that many years ego there was a test here in a magazine showing the differences between oil filters (cut of-inspection inside etc). As for the Catalytic, Felicia hasn't so many sensors as other newest models, keep in mind that the ECU couldn't find the wrong Lambda sensor that i had (seller's mistake) and caused me in fuel. I don't think that the Felicia electronics are so sophisticated and keep in mind that this occurred only with the 15W-50, never had this with other viscosities as 5W or 10W. MAHLE (KNECHT/MAHLE): OC 986 I will keep that code in mind, i haven't seen that code in Greek shop.

I post what i hear from the engine, the behaviour, the rev up capability, the fuel consumption, there are facts that i can ignore. I can't close my eyes and pretend that i can't hear or i don't understand. Mahle OC 981? Can not find Knecht here, as for Hengst i will make a call to: https://filters.gr/hengst-filters/ For first time after 15 years the engine at Clod Start 2 times had a sound of a 70's-80's engine with the choke lever closed, brrr brrr like it's going to turn-off.

Another test today, 11 km of light traffic and boulevard where i manage to engage 4th gear for a while and 13 Km with very heavy traffic. In the morning the fuel consumption was 12,2 and at night 12,7 ltr / 100 Km. The first Cold start was weird, with temperature at 9 'C the needle was at 900-950 rpm trembling a bit and the motor had a rough sound like was trying to go higher but something couldn't let it. In few minutes everything was fine but when the engine get warm the rev up in boulevard didn't let me happy. Also at night the coolant temperature was one click above from the previous 5W-40 limit. My Trusty does not like the 15W-50.

Old cars easily to steal often used by robbers as a ''Battering Ram'' for smashing a shop window, can not used in a bank robbery for example because they are not fast to get away from Police.

We name our vehicles (Army or Civilian) with woman name too, mainly our wife's or girlfriend's.

Yes, the far right is deeper red than the other two, the far left can be considered as orange (the camera flash confuses the distinction).

1) With 15W-50 the fuel consumption (in the same terrible City traffic) immediately raised. Let's hope won't go any further but i don't think will reduced. 2) The sound of the motor in idle is a bit quieter, sounds with more ''bass'', the car also is one click quieter in 1500-2000 rpm. 3) I haven't got the chance to go to a boulevard to see how it goes after 4000 rpm but i have tried till 3500 and does not rev up so fast as the 5W-40 because the oil is thicker. In few days i will make a trip and i will see how it goes in Highway and then in Mountain Roads but i am not optimistic about the 15W viscosity.

I remembered another one ''Engine surprise", few years back i had an annoying squeaking noise (metal to metal) from the radiator area, i checked and was that black metallic cover where the fan is supported. As i look it from above everything looked fine but when i grab and shake it was moving a bit from the lower side, i said this to a mechanic and he started ''it's an old car...it's normal due age....below has plastic sockets that must be broken" etc. I insist to check it and when a day i went for oil-filter change i said to him to make an inspection. Few hours later when i went to take it he said that he fixed, i made a quick check and yes was not moved as before (he didn't said what he has done). After some days the same problem, at idle the same repeatable metallic noise from engine bay, i opened the hood an yes the cover was slacken so i start cursing. I couldn't anything by myself (as i have said here ) so i went to another repair-shop, when he lift the car and removed the cover he called me ''come and see". The cover has 4 screws (example photo from another Felicia) 2 up and two down and not plastic sockets as the idiot said and guess what? that stupid the first mechanic put a screw like this one ! Which of course due to vibrations got away. In front of me the second mechanic put 2 new bolts and since then everything is fine and as you can imagine the first one got from me a ton of slander words.