D.FYLAKTOS

i had a problem with the shift lever (too loose and after shift engage was trembling a bit) especially in 3rd gear, after engage often in high rpm i was hearing a ''gzzzz" sound. I bought and i ask from the mechanic to install this https://www.skoda-parts.com/data/items/254/5aa278e4b4ab5_xl.jpg and the Rear Gearshift Bush https://www.skoda-parts.com/data/items/289/5dc0172bd879e.jpg both from a Cz store and the problem solved, the gear shift changes are more ''robust'' and no sound.

Felicia has a late 80's engine, i wonder why a Sythtetic can harm selas etc as some say. That's some sort of ''comfort'' to hear, the first impressions from Total Quartz (not Synthetic) are not satisfying me.

Yes, ''Αγορα'' Is in Greek, in ancient Athens was the place for the people to talk for public matters, had the same rules as today in Forum (Admin-Thread opener-Warnings-Ban etc), looked like this: The place among building with seats for the citizens was called ''Orchestra". Now with 15W-50 the Oil light immediately get's off, also i have changed the filter, from previous FIBA i went to MANN and i feel secure.

An example https://www.car-parts.ie/car-parts/trw/p-2194133 Here in GR the price is https://www.car.gr/parts/view/24367896-katanemitis-frenwn The code is 1H0 612 151?

I was expecting to see this posted with the bananas too but...maybe in the future. I will post another day the two incidents with kittens inside my engine bay.

Yeah, if i had a backyard with plenty or space, a large lifting jack, a bench, an expensine toolbox,an extra guy to help me and lot of time then yes. Try to work many blocks away from home on the road, in cold, with cars passing very close to you to see that even a bulb change in rear light is difficult. If you need a tool that you haven't in the trunk or an extra hand to help you then "you are finished". I speak by experience 30+ years working in the side of the road with motorcycles-cars.

Another ''engine bay surprise'' today. I asked for an inspection due to my future trip for Christmas, few days ego i noticed that the level of coolant was few cm lower i asked for a Coolant leak test (by ''pressing" as we say it here) and a ''sneaky" leak was found. Sloppy work from previous mechanic with overtighten and a crack show-up in thermostat housing (it's plastic), the leak was on the lower side, not visible as you look the engine bay. Plus some cracks show up in Poly-V belt and i change it as a precaution and the mechanic found one Steering Rack Boot with a cut so i replaced them both.

What are the benefits of Kevlar clutches? Often Kevlar is able to withstand 40-50% more heat than organics. Just like organic Kevlar offers smooth engagement and minimal wear of matting surfaces. This friction material will often last two to three times longer than the organic option. These are a good option for slightly modified vehicles and off road use.

Few years back some Cz stores had them, also Vika sells a kit.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121630933363 https://www.ckcautosport.com/embragues-sport/163158-embrague-black-diamond-bdc9805pwr-ceramico-8434207311485.html Not for our wallet.

Maclaine? _____________________ These are the last (Best-off) fuel consumption photos from 5W-40, i doubt if i see the same with 15W-50. As for the new 15W-50 although it's too early for impressions the first two are: The sound on the idle-first meters in Cold start is different, more quite than 5W , a bit "Suffocated". The first Cold start today also was different, went to 800 rpm limit much faster than 5W-40, i will count it next time. Waiting few days for fuel consumption and rev up capability.

Common tricks here (text translated):

Here in Greece for a clutch in Felicia the mechanics ask from 90-120 euros (that's 77-103 £) for fitting only.

Depends from the use, city traffic-sport driving means many changes, national highways few changes more easy kilometres. Some say about 120.000 km, the easiest way is the "check with 2nd gear". Different brands, different prices, Vika has much lower price than Sachs. There are "racing" clutches but are not comfortable for every-day driving use. I remember back in 90's with Sport motorcycles, some had those clutches but the drivers weren't happy for city use, stiff and noisy.

This caused problem to @promomast, does not work any more.

I will give that 15W-50 a fair try, City traffic-Highway-Mountain roads and if it gets lower results i will abandon it forever. Maybe i will try next a 10W-50 or a 10W-60 but if they fail too then 10W-40 is the only option left.

This morning with '8 C the delay was barely 2 seconds. Yes it was, my attention was there and i was feeling uncomfortable. I saw some 10W-50 here but are very expensive. As for 10W-60 the majority have "racing" or "race" or "supercar" or "ester" on their label although there are 2-3 exceptions. In Mobil-1 says for cars more than 150.000 but it's too premature for my car since i have 90.000 Km. The fuel consumption at City traffic now with 5W-40 is 12ltr/100km (23,54 UK Mpg). I hope in the next 2 days to make the oil change with 15W-50 and see the results.

As in the 1st video but a fraction of a second more, only in morning cold start. The 15W-50 oil arrived tonight.

Most 10W-60 have the ''racing'' indication so i hesitate to use them, also the 300V competition Motuls series (one use it many years ago). Was in central console and cause me nothing than troubles (distratction, hesitation about the engine oil condition etc) and remove it. Same with Vacuum gauge front-left in driver's pillar, nice looking (like turbo boost gauge) but the up-and-down move of the needle (a his ''last days'') made me very nervous, so i throw it away.

I asked via mail one of the most famous Skoda-racers here in Greece (with all Skoda models and of course with Felicia too). He suggested me 10W-40 and if i decise to use my car for track-day a 10W-60. I had one 52mm Chinese made, it's adaptor after some years cause me problem (quite paradoxically at the day of MOT) with the red light blinking when it wanted and i remove it.

@Thefeliciahacker will not be happy with this viscosity suggestion. This occurs only when the car is completely cold, then while driving nothing happens. After 8 hours when i take it to return home everything is normal. I am curious how the new 15W-50 will perform especially in city traffic fuel consumption.

New engine oil ordered, Total Quartz 15W-50 which is a viscosity hard to find here in 5lt, most them have them in 1lt. There are not many old cars so the stores don't have them so easily as in the past. One think that worries me is that the red light (with engine oil indication) when the car is Cold takes 2 seconds to turn-off when the other lights already are off. That means that the engine oil pump start had difficulties with the existed 5W oil or it's natural?

That's for the Hahas which 40 years back had a PhD already and worked in F1. That's why i am asking.

Since i have left the Secondary school and the Physic lessons for almost 40 years, that type P=F/S apply? In the oil pump when the S is steady, the F is the Viscosity of the engine oil? The thinner the oil the F is getting higher so the P gets lower?

I have changed some batteries and done some ECU reset (with 3 ways). Check for possible faults via VCDS or relative, the ECU will ''learn'' as you drive the car about in a week or so and make some adjustments as happened many times with drivers after removind the throttle for cleaning.