D.FYLAKTOS

I will give that 15W-50 a fair try, City traffic-Highway-Mountain roads and if it gets lower results i will abandon it forever. Maybe i will try next a 10W-50 or a 10W-60 but if they fail too then 10W-40 is the only option left.

This morning with '8 C the delay was barely 2 seconds. Yes it was, my attention was there and i was feeling uncomfortable. I saw some 10W-50 here but are very expensive. As for 10W-60 the majority have "racing" or "race" or "supercar" or "ester" on their label although there are 2-3 exceptions. In Mobil-1 says for cars more than 150.000 but it's too premature for my car since i have 90.000 Km. The fuel consumption at City traffic now with 5W-40 is 12ltr/100km (23,54 UK Mpg). I hope in the next 2 days to make the oil change with 15W-50 and see the results.

As in the 1st video but a fraction of a second more, only in morning cold start. The 15W-50 oil arrived tonight.

Most 10W-60 have the ''racing'' indication so i hesitate to use them, also the 300V competition Motuls series (one use it many years ago). Was in central console and cause me nothing than troubles (distratction, hesitation about the engine oil condition etc) and remove it. Same with Vacuum gauge front-left in driver's pillar, nice looking (like turbo boost gauge) but the up-and-down move of the needle (a his ''last days'') made me very nervous, so i throw it away.

I asked via mail one of the most famous Skoda-racers here in Greece (with all Skoda models and of course with Felicia too). He suggested me 10W-40 and if i decise to use my car for track-day a 10W-60. I had one 52mm Chinese made, it's adaptor after some years cause me problem (quite paradoxically at the day of MOT) with the red light blinking when it wanted and i remove it.

@Thefeliciahacker will not be happy with this viscosity suggestion. This occurs only when the car is completely cold, then while driving nothing happens. After 8 hours when i take it to return home everything is normal. I am curious how the new 15W-50 will perform especially in city traffic fuel consumption.

New engine oil ordered, Total Quartz 15W-50 which is a viscosity hard to find here in 5lt, most them have them in 1lt. There are not many old cars so the stores don't have them so easily as in the past. One think that worries me is that the red light (with engine oil indication) when the car is Cold takes 2 seconds to turn-off when the other lights already are off. That means that the engine oil pump start had difficulties with the existed 5W oil or it's natural?

That's for the Hahas which 40 years back had a PhD already and worked in F1. That's why i am asking.

Since i have left the Secondary school and the Physic lessons for almost 40 years, that type P=F/S apply? In the oil pump when the S is steady, the F is the Viscosity of the engine oil? The thinner the oil the F is getting higher so the P gets lower?

I have changed some batteries and done some ECU reset (with 3 ways). Check for possible faults via VCDS or relative, the ECU will ''learn'' as you drive the car about in a week or so and make some adjustments as happened many times with drivers after removind the throttle for cleaning.

Can we consider an engine oil test like this as ''reliable''?

"For eductaional purposes only", for sure i don't care about -25 'C but it's interesting at +20 'C Flow test 0W20, 0W30, 0W40, 5W30, 5W40, 5W50, 10W40 temps +20°C and -25°C Mobil The synthetic 5W-40 beats the semi-synthetic 10W-40. _______________________________ Flow test 10W30, 10W40, 10W50, 10W60 temps +20°C and -25°C. The 10W-40 beats the 10W-50.

I remembered this: 5W40 VS 15W40 Diesel Oil at -25C _______________________________________ I found a photo from my archives, was Spring (not too hot) but that cusred Motul 10W-40 Synthetic didn't perorm so well in coolant temperature. With the 5W-40 Shell i nevear had this indication even at hot days of July with +40 °C outside. Isn't that a bit of weird?

@R_U_AFA Do you use (soft) plastics care products?

Felicia had in the manual SG - Meets 1989-1993 requirements of Automotive manufacturers. Now obsolete. That Motul "looks promising". The worst temperature here in my place was -4,5 °C before two decades, the average temperature for January here is about + 7°C and we very rare we see snow. The 5W so far did a record in fuel consumption at Summer,Autumn but let's see for the December (next oil change) what he can do.

I also made a research for 15W-50 Synthetic but there are not many options. There is Total QUARTZ RACING 10W-50 https://www.finol.ie/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/quartz-racing-10w-50-engine-oil_79.pdf says "can be used in the most difficult operating conditions (motorways, dense city traffic...) whatever the season. Although does not mention VW Specifications ACEA 2007 A3/B4 API SM / CF Referent engine oil for PEUGEOT SPORT ans CITREON SPORT SUBARU (Level) Viscosity at 100°C mm²/s - 17 Viscosity at 40°C mm²/s - 115 Viscosity index - 164

A bit hard to find here but it can be done. Repsol produces also G11 antifreeze, i have use it nd i was very happy with it. Can not be found here any more, i must order it from aboard country. Another one is MOTUL 4100 POWER 15W-50 (Technosynthese) but i hesitate since Motul 6100 Synergie 10W-40 (also technosynthese) didn't worked for me.

Mobil-1 15W-50 Motorsport https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-15w-50 now is very hard to be found here, no VW specifications. Valvoline SynPower 5W-40 (synthetic) Mobil-1 5W-50 Rally Formula (synthetic) I change them very quicly, i din't like the engine loud ''rattle" noise. Repsol 5W-50 Master Racing (synthetic) I didn't push it too hard, i don't remeber something about noise. Motul 300V 10W-60 Le Mans (Ester) I didn't push it too hard either but they told me that Ester oils are not good for more than a year inside an engine, are hygroscopic plus have no VW specifications so i din't tested them again. All of my engine oil intervals were from 5000-7000 Km excpept the Valvoline SynPower 5W-40 (synthetic) and the Mobil-1 5W-50 Rally Formula (synthetic) which change them after few months of use. I start taking seriously measures about fuel consumption after Mobil-1 15W-50 Motorspost use, those years i could only via Gas Station pupm test, Motul 6100 Synergie 10W-40 and Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 tested via TC-6.

Here is the whole list, keep in mind that in first years there was no internet, no forums, no e-stores etc but only some advises from car magazines-other drivers and local mechanics. Inevitably due misinformation some mistakes could happen. Factory oils, (i couldn't know the brand or viscosity) Warranty oils (couldn't see the brand from a distance, was green bottle with yellow cap, they didn't told me which brand or viscosity) EKO Megatron 5W-40 (synthetic) Valvoline SynPower 5W-40 (synthetic) - Surely not happy Repsol 5W-50 Master Racing (synthetic) Motul 300V 10W-60 Le Mans (synthetic) Mobil-1 5W-50 Rally Formula (synthetic) - Extremely Not happy Mobil-1 15W-50 Motorspost (synthetic) Amsoil 10W-40 AMO (synthetic) Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 (semi-synthetic) - Not happy Motul 6100 Synergie 10W-40 (technosynthese) - Not happy Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 (synthetic) The engine oils that i ''pushed'' hard were (and i rate them for: engine noise, cold start few meters, rev-up and fuel consumption): 3rd: Mobil-1 15W-50 Motorspost (synthetic) 2nd: Amsoil 10W-40 AMO (synthetic) 1st: Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 (synthetic)

Maybe there are aftermarket (although not the same quality as the original) but expensive or you can find from another Felicia which is sold by parts for example was crushed from behind and all the front parts are intact.

Synthetics: 5W-40 Shell and 10W-40 Motul (2 oils) and Amsoil, so far the 5W-40 is the ''winner'' in everything (i don't know about engine wear that other memebers said that i am going to face). Semi-synthetics: 10W-40 Castrol (poor performance-fuel consumption) and another cheap brand from a local dealer at the 1st service, a terrible engine oil but i had to go due to the warranty rules.. I have used before 17-19 years Valvoline 5W-40 and Motul 15W-40 but i don't remember something ''great'' about them plus i wasn't paying too attention to fuel consumption those years. I am on the tablet now, not at home to check my notes but i don't think that i have forgoten something.

Oh, something like this?

IF the guy knows what he is doing then the results would be very good and you will save money, if he don't they he will make them very stiff and in every pothole your teeth will suffer. If you don't want to take the risk then buy a new set, simple one not something expensive, Bilstein black for example are good for simple use close to original.

Depends from the brand and the mechanic who will do the ''refurbish'' work. Some ask for 1st time the 1/2 or 1/3 of the price of the original and some (if you make many Kms pre year) they give you the promise that next time will ask the half or the price (of the 1st time). If the guy is famous about suspensisons with good reviews ''go for it'' otherwise buy a new front set (Koni-Kayaba-Sachs), it's more reassuring. Except the purchase or the refurbish work that which plays the main role is the Fitting.

The temperature here start rising, the fuel consumption start rising too just a click, i will show that with photos in next post. The 11,7 ltr/ 100 km (few days ago) is the lowest i have seen for many years and the 5W-40 is responsible for this. I am monitoring every change (cold start, fuel consumption, engine noise etc) with that new 5W viscosity and present the results till the next oil change.