D.FYLAKTOS

This video is with only 30Km distance with ENEOS oil, after few weeks will see more. With Motul 10W-40 i had the most smooth Cold Start but ENEOS 10W-40 beat it in fuel consumption and rev up capability. Amsoil 10W-40 was the best in those 2 sectors. My mistake that i didn't made a Cold Start video with Shell 5W-40, was best in fuel consumption than Motul and in few days will see against the ENEOS.

Here is the crank A the Crank B and the crank C.

I am using Apex lowering springs 30mm, not Eibach 40mm (i had them in the past). According to Apex: So i am fine ! 😺

Michelin Pilot Exalto and Bridgestone RE-88 no more produced in 175/60/15. Yokohama A539 has not good index in Fuel Economy: F, Wet Handling: C, Noise: 72dB

@Thefeliciahacker : Why don't you send KONI an email and express to them your objections? Tell them that their product will cause damage and blah blah. https://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Products/Sport-Tuning/STR-T-Kit/ Prove to them that they are wrong, quote everything you have say here and i would love to hear what they answered to you. Don't waist your time here, get the Hahas together and write to them.

Koni STR.T and Eibach Lowering Springs Install and Review

Write a suspension Manifesto, upload it in the web so everybody would follow exactly what you are saying there. When i bought my car you were in kindergarten, how could i consult you? If you don't agree (and paradoxically you don't agree with anything) of what i have done in my car does not affect me at all. Open a new topic with title "Do not change the stock suspension on your Felicia". I opened a topic for my Koni rebuild and i was betting for 2 things: 1) You will show up first of all in purpose with negative comments. 2) The complex Hahas will follow saying (after coordination) that he is agree with you.

I rebuild my Koni in Official Service and i am happy with the results, i drive a lowered Felicia for 21 years and i am not intent to lift it as was in Stock. You can ''judge'' people but till one point, beyond that (and doing it in every single topic) is getting irritating. Υou are not the Richard Wilks and if you think that you have so much knowledge and your expertise is far above the boundaries of Greece make a recruitment application for a NASCAR team. As for the "famous name" of some people, keep in mind that ferrari's Chief test driver after so many decades of experience in every single supercar of this brand tried his luck in Nürburgring and in F1, Failed in both !

You are "the one and only" then, the Pythagoras of Motorsport. https://i0.wp.com/www.themarginalian.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/pythagoras_knapp.jpg?w=676&ssl=1 Let me remind you an old Greek wisdom: "Eat a big mouthful but don't say a big word". Riskology about my Felicia in every topic, what you think you are going to gain from this? I didn't did this even in my motorcycle era (see the attachment RGV Γ 250 modified by me, make a comparison with a Stock) and the reasons were that i didn't want to abuse what i had (because i was going to pay for it, not the ''daddy" which buys 3 cars to his son), I didn't want to risk a fall because i was living alone and i couldn't go to work next morning (i am not the ''mama what's for dinner" guy as others) plus i didn't want to have problems with the Law. For 30 years i enjoy driving in country roads with turns, if someone does not agree with this i don't f****n care at all. Ι am not a coward and ''rodelas" so i didn't get a Pink GR Army discharge paper as others.

Yes, i change it after 2 years as i do with the Coolant. The whole combination in Braking is far the best i had ever, except the Stock pads (which are for grandpa driving) i have tested EBC Black, Ferodo, Brembo brake pads.

Depends on the user, i push them more, the B guy push them less, the C guy use them occasionaly in Track far more, there is no ''specific limit''. Born in 1967, i also had it a bit before the 1992 in the Army, i was the ''faster'' tank driver, maintain it properly (especially in suspension-air filter-battery-oil) and i had ''modified'' a bit the fuel line plus the gas pedal stop. I won in a exhibition all the drivers from the whole Division in the ''how to downhill a Λ shape obstacle", all the others hit the end by force and failed, me? "nice and easy" with a gear box trick. Later i start driving Sport motorcycles and i learn many things because i was lucky and born in a place with good asphalt and many turns, so a lot of ''practise". I don't do ''street racing'' in traffic lights etc, i like to drive in roads with turns and 30+ of humble experience can not judged but only from a driver with similar skills. Before i Had Eibach springs, much tougher and 1cm lowered but i removed them. I hear no strange noises, no vibrations more that it should be, pass the MOT suspension test and multiple checks by mechanics (here is from an OIl change, i asked for an ispection and found nothing). A note from the MOT at August: Mine had 0,3 when 0 is the Perfect.

It's in the schedule, the right side is fixed. Higher boiling point than normal DOT 4.

Floating brake discs, i wrote it wrong. Every 10.000 Km the front go back and after 10.000 Km the same, that's a common practise here although i do it sooner. Some years i haven't the chance to go to Mountain Roads so i don't push them hard, so there is no a ''stable'' programme. There are no many options in 175/60/14, Toyo are very good and thank God still exist, here is an example. https://www.skroutz.gr/c/578/lastixa-autokinitou/f/1583648/175-60R14.html?o=175%2F60%2F14

Drilled discs had a lot of noise compared to the Plain especially annoying in Summer in Mountain Roads with window down, keep in mind that we are talking for stock dimensions and not Floated. I have used in Motorcycles Plain-Drilled-Grooved brake discs, soft-hard brake pads, stock-metallic brake lines etc. My TOYO Proxes tyres have about 6000 Km of usage.

Yes, i had some other family expenses and the rebuild had to wait, were in the 3rd scale their last. 11300 so far, about 2,5 years. I din't like the feeling of Stock suspention (we are talking for a Felicia and not a BMW M3) in Mountain Roads, for fun i call it ''trombolino effect". Good and for slow City driving, slow Highway speed, compfortable ''grandpa style'' as we say it here. I had some experience about suspension for my motorcycle days with Sport 4T 400cc and 2T 250cc (adjustments-rebuild-modifications in geometry etc). Except the normal wear of some parts (top mount) i the Steering system i have made a Track-rod-end ball joint change and Gaiter changes, all the MOT passed OK and every chance the car is in lift jack (for any reason) i ask for an inspection and i am present. Things like this are for ''show-off'' only https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2597/3112/t/9/assets/lowered-lexus-f-sport.jpg?208 never envy them and never want to make my car like this.

Few months ago i made an upgrade to my brakes, i already had Goodridge braided steel brake line so: I changed the Brembo Drilled discs with Plain, the Brembo brake pads with EBC Yellow and the normal DOT4 brake fluid with ATE TYP 200 Racing. Here are some photos of that day: Although the brake disc was brand new he put it for measurement and before the first use apply a spray, that's why looks like this (yes the calipers need new coat layer). The ''break-in'' period was 850 Km and after this start pushing things, the result is far better than previous combination. No noise, more tough feeling at the pedal, no so much fade, braking distances went smaller and i was far more confided braking after a straight line before a turn. So far i have about 3000 Km and i am extremely happy because let's face the truth i didn't had any other choices, i asked the mechanic (on of the Top here in brakes) and said with that 14" of course i can't use 4 piston calipers, if i wanted to use bigger calipers-discs from other car i had to show him that some other drivers did it-posted this in car forum and proved after long term use that's OK otherwise he didn't take the responsibility for ''experiments". My brakes now are far better than ever, i don't know in the future if i make another upgrade, i have to search about it deeper with the ''Safety first'' in mind.

These 1) don't fit in my driving style and i have that style since 1992. 2) don't work together with Apex lowering springs that i have. I read-hear about KONi rebuild from 2005, very common here in Greece and has official service shop with 1 year Warranty. About 21 years and had 82000 Km of use, were on the 3rd scale the last. I just returned from a 390 Km trip (Highway-Mountain Roads) and i am extremely happy with their performance.

My rebuilted Koni work as it should be, so far tested and approved in city traffic (small potholes, railroad tracks, emergency brakes etc.) and Mountain Roads (turns after a downhill straight-S curves-small saddle at the road junction etc). My car my rules, i do what i want and makes me happy...and yes i have to admit that another guy can beat me in banana tree climbing, sorry i can't do this. @J.R. You are right.

I am in the middle of the trip, very happy with Koni repair, huge difference on the road. I read about Koni repair from 2005 from other drivers which done this, everyone satisfied and never regret it.

About 21 years is like this. No issues with MOT plus i do alignment very often. No suspension mechanic warnings.

Unfortunately in the past we had only 1 track here and since was impossible for the majority of people to go there the solution was 1 and not so safe: Find a well known Mountain Road with no traffic and make some A to B and from B to A kilometres. Was most common for riders to suggest each other which road with turns was the best to test your suspension-engine modifications.

I have already said that HP Sporting were offered by Skoda dealer FAA 071001-8 in the SPORT section of red catalgue. http://www.hpsporting.cz Older topic here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/121107-where-to-get-hp-sporting-coilovers/ There is no service or parts for these here that's why i never bought them. ''All hands on deck" Many have bought and installed expensive and fancy coilovers but when you ask them for adjustment numbers they say ''Oh, i don't know, my mechanic knows". You need a track and many-many rounds to fit what's proper for your car since the B or C driver adjustments have no apply because you drive different than them. Back in my motorcycle days there were only 1-2 options for aftermarket coilovers and extremely difficult to find someone for rebuilt and the majority of ''sport'' riders were trying with the stock suspension, all of them were with a wrench and a screedriver in their bag. This set-up for City, this for Highway etc which sometimes was tiring and spastic.

Koni now has the STR.T Kit with H&R lowering springs, go for it ! https://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Products/Sport-Tuning/STR-T-Kit/ Grab the chance, many years back that option wasn't available. https://www.dpmperformance.co.uk/car-parts/seat/ibiza/koni-strt-25mm40mm-springs-shocks-suspension-kitibiza-6j-20082017-14tsi-14tdi-16tdi-19tdi-20tdi-inc-cupra-fr I suggest to don't go up to 40mm it's tool low for the GR road conditions, 30 or maximum 35mm is all you need. As for the record, Eibach lowering springs are 40mm and very stiff (i had them for many years), not so good for us, avoid them exept if you have your Felicia for Highways and Mountain Roads only. If i was living exclusively in country (no City) with good conditions roads i would choose that combination, excellent behaviour in Sport style driving.

1) I was sure that you didn't agree, i was expecting the: 2) No KW for Felicia in catalogue https://www.kwsuspensions.net/shop?c_make=106&c_model=1319&c_car=4735&ag= "0 Products " 3) Bilstein B4S here are for Taxi drivers, not for Sport driving because they can't plus they don't work together with lowering springs (as i have). Good for my father which is old man and drives very normal.

My Felicia has Koni Street shock absorbers https://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Products/Sport-Tuning/STR-T/ with Apex lowering springs https://www.apex-suspension.co.uk/products/performance-lowering-springs Also i have Top Mount changed before few years), a Skoda strut brace and Eibach Anti-Roll bar. The Koni were on the 3rd (last) scale,i pass the MOT few months ago with no problems but wasn't happy no matter if it was in City (potholes-small rails) or in Highway (after 130 Km) so it was to for a change or total repair. I choose the 2nd and i went to the official Koni Service here which uses original Koni parts and gives 1 year Warranty. Example from Uk https://www.koniuk.co.uk/about/service-repair According to the mechanic: pistons, teflon, O-rings, oils plus gaskets (especially those in rear were in not good condition) plus Alignment, the total cost was 250 euro or 217 £ (nice price because i am nice guy). It's too early for impressions, of course there is a huge improvement in City roads plus on emergency traffic brake but the speeds are low. I am a bit cautious, the real test in few days with Highway and Mountain Roads turns that i love. Sorry no photos from the step-by-step work.