aki78

Hm, I'm not dazzling myself but now I can see much better while cornering at low speed. If you watch my video carefully you can see that they are not 'too bright' just 'bright enough'. With the original bulbs the cornering light function is kind of useless.

A. yes, they are illegal B. they also work well in fog (beam pattern is ok) but I very very rarely use them as 'fog lights' (useless IMO) C. in other words, the factory halogen bulbs look crap with LED headlights ... D. Now they work very well as cornering light E. Now they work very well as additional light (with high beams) if there's no oncoming traffic I bought them mainly because D and E.

I am using these: https://a.aliexpress.com/55T19xoc The beam pattern is absolutely perfect, the light output is 2 or 3 times higher than with the original H8 bulbs. The metal driver boxes didn't seem 100% waterproof so I wrapped them with self vulcanizing rubber tape. In action:

Yep but the DRLs are designed to shine into other driver's eyes while the fogs don't. So the wattage is just a number. IMHO the the DRLs are much more noticeable at full brighness than the LED dipped beams + DRLs at low brightness. By the way the fog lights are only 35W (H8).

That's why I activated the 'rear DRL' function so I don't have to touch the light switch again. The front LED DRLs are bright enough in fog.

Don't worry, the real power is only about 6-7 Watts. The absolute maximum power rating of those LED chips is 5 Watts so the seller uses this number because it looks better (5x6=30 Watts). So it's marketing BS. There's an internal LED driver inside the bulb which limits the LEDs power to about 1 Watt per chip otherwise they would overheat. The heatsink (aluminium body) is too small for higher power. The car is still happy with the bulb despite the much lower power. Probably it's a positive side effect of the built-in LED driver.

You can probably still install them with zero modification, because it's very similar to H8 and the led bulb has an universal socket anyway. Make sure you have enough space for the heatsinks though. Obviously you'll need 2 pairs. The led bulb will be a little bit blueish compared to your xenons. I have (higher color temp) LED headlights and the color matching is very good in my case. In action:

Yep, they will also work without coding. You won't be disappointed with the light output because those bulbs are still 2-3 times brighter than the originals. My new H8 fog light bulbs: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/EJo0pZPK Check the feedbacks with pictures and you'll find mine.

Here's a link to a fn bright reversing bulb: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/DmLexUac Almost 2 years and 90k km and they still work in my car. Coding not needed, their power is about 15-20 Watts each, so the car is happy with them. Yes, they are as bright as on the video.

+1

I have used Osram Nightbreakers in the past, they are really brighter but their lifetime is much sorter (30-50%).

The small DSG gearstick is probably real: http://www.automotor.hu/hirek/ido-elott-skoda-octavia/

Thanks for the info!

I have no idea about the optical cable but I managed to activate the small images. Call picture also works, tested today with my better half’s phone.

I mean the logos are disabled from the factory in my Bolero. I can change the VC colors in the headunit menu (also together with the door led strips), no problem with that.

Oh, it's disabled in the Bolero then. I am wondering if it’s enabled in the Amundsen.

Mine is a factory fitted Bolero + virtual cockpit. There are no logos by default.

Not sure if it's been mentioned before but it's possible to activate album cover, radio station & call picture icons: 5F / Adaptations ENG122230-ENG122341-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-coverart - 'OFF' to 'On' ENG122230-ENG122342-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-stationart - 'OFF' to 'On' ENG122230-ENG122343-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-call_picture - 'OFF' to 'On' (needs 'Security Access' code 20103) If coding not accepted change this first: 17 / Adaptations IDE13094-Tachometer end value - 'Version 0' to 'Version 4' Some before and after pictures:

43 - allgemeine LED always worked for me, I tested it with various LED bulbs & OEM led lights. This is also the factory coding for LED lights. Have you ticked the 'Soft Reset' option when coding? That should solve the problem. Resetting the light settings sometimes doesn't help. The fault usually disappears though when you leave the car locked for a few hours (overnight). Option 2: do the coding first then change the w5w bulbs to LEDs only afterwards. I had to do this on my previous O3 because Soft Reset didn't exist in VCDS that time. Also make sure that the Dimmwert value is set to 127. Lower values also worked with LED bulbs, but I'm not sure about the OEM light. Did the lights work by the way?

I installed my 'magic box' and it works. For me the problem has solved.....

I have just done this mod on my MY19 Octavia. Parts I used: - 2 x M8 ball joint (thread length 14-15 mm): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32925255326.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dqkYWSU - 2 x M6 ball joint (thread length 14-15 mm): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32975903867.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dqkYWSU - 2 x smaller diameter washer - 2 x larger diameter washer - 2 x cheapest aftermarket Ibiza II boot dampers (Loro 101-00-070) To remove the hood screw I used a 5/16" hex key. It fits absolutely perfectly, even the factory paint on the screw head remained intact. It's wasn't too tight. The cheepo dampers are working fine without any unusual noise. Let's see how long will they last. As you can see the original fender (hex) screw is quite short, the ball joint thread is longer but it still fits. In action: Some pictures:

My colleague has a high mileage (200.000 km) O3 FL with LED headlights. No problem at all. And it's as bright as mine (12.000 km), so there's no visible degradation.