aki78

Sorry, no idea. Dealer fixed both problems at the same time. They told me they had to remove the dash because of the centre flap problem (some greasing helped). Don't forget to run a calibration once you replaced the motor. Look here for service manuals: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6mvh3pqryshv3rp/AAAYSoCsp-vVWz-h4ko4QoAha?dl=0 Did your motor also fall apart?

My dealer replaced my mirror (with HBA) because of the mirror's self dropping issue. The first time I turned on HBA I got the same error message. My first thought was a loose (or not connected) connector so I removed the plastic cover and checked it but it seemed fine. When I got home I checked the fault codes with VCDS and the HBA module complained about incorrect coding. It turned out that stupid dealer forgot to code the new module..... Fortunately I had a previously saved AutoScan so I managed to code the new module according to the old one. Voila, it started working again. What I am trying to say that save your current coding and code your new module if neccessary. Probably it's a good idea to save an Adaptation map too and also check the channels. Check for fault codes before you buy a new mirror with camera.

Basic setting is probably necessary. When I disabled the rain mode on mine I got an AFS error on the dash. Basic setting sorted that out.

My left motor is visible under the dash, the right one is somewhat hidden behind/under the glovebox. Not sure about RHD cars as mine is LHD. You can see the motors working if you change the temperature e.g. from LO to HI.

As in the video.

My left temperature motor (which is the driver's side here :)) suddenly fell apart on a summer afternoon at around 180k km. I heard loud cracking noises when it failed. The two halves of the motor housing separated and I saw the plastic gears inside. With half an hour of fiddling I have managed to push the housings together and it so-so worked again but the temperature wasn't stable any more. Dealer replaced it under warranty. There were 2 cases on the HU forum regarding the right side (passenger side) motor. A plastic gear (which moves the temperature flap) fell off. One of the guys managed to put it back, the other one is waiting for dealer fix. They heard some clicking noises and the symptom was unadjustable temperature. You can always try calibrating but I guess it won't help. If you turn the volume up you can hear my faulty motor after I 'fixed' it. (The centre vent problem was also fixed by the dealer, it was a dash out job...)

DPF lasted 280k km in my colleague's 2.0 TDI O3, mine is about 90% full at 245k km. We do a lot of highway driving and only a few % city driving. The new DPF is very very expensive (about 2400 EUR with fitting) so our company decided to try and get it cleaned by a specialist company. In a few weeks I will check my colleague's car with VCDS to see how successful the cleaning was.

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bZlV2Mha This one works very well, my first set lasted more than 150k km then I bought the same again. Coding not needed so it's just a simple swap. Much brighter than the regular T10 bulb and provides homogeneous light. Even the bulb out warning came on when one of the old LEDs failed. LEDs fitted:

Check if the seat height adjuster rattles against the seat frame: If so, put some wiring loom tape on the frame and problem solved.

Check this for MY18 part numbers: http://www.filedropper.com/o3my18mirrorsetka MY19: http://www.filedropper.com/o3my19mirrorsetka

This is how you do it with VCDS:

Yep, delete or (quick)format your Skoda SD card, and simply copy the files to the empty card.

You can completely disable the camera on the 5F module by unticking byte 19 bit 4. The default screen probably can't be changed.

Thanks to VW here are the direct download links: MIB1 Amundsen: http://vw-mapscdn.tdd.adacorcdn.com/P75_N60S3MIBS2_EU.7z MIB2 Amundsen: http://vw-mapscdn.tdd.adacorcdn.com/DiscoverMedia2_EU1_2718_1030.7z MIB1/MIB2 Columbus: http://vw-mapscdn.tdd.adacorcdn.com/P169_N60S5MIBH3_EU.7z I think the MIB2 maps are also good for the facelift model. MIB1 Amundsen maps tested and works.

My original brakes lasted 150.000 km then all pads and discs (front+rear) had to be replaced at the same time. Mine is a 2.0 TDI with DSG. I am mainly driving on highway, city driving is almost zero. And I am gentle with the brakes. It depends on the driver too, my colleague's car (same O3) needed new front pads and discs at 90.000 km.

Also keep in mind that when the hazards are switched on and the ignition is switched off, ON time is shorter and OFF time is longer. Something like 25% / 75% (instead of 50% / 50% when ignition is on).

+1 That's a diode, probably 1N4007, you can buy it cheap. Looks like your LED bulb is shorting out the contacts? I can see a metal ring on it.

My DPF figures at 210k km. This is a 2014 O3 2.0 TDI with DSG-6. Lots of highway driving (70%) at real 145 km/h, city driving is less than 5%. Long-term average fuel consumption: 6.7 l/100 km. Oil consumption: 1.5-2 l/30k km. I have a heavy foot but I never trash the car before it warms up. I also checked one of my colleague's car (same car, same circumtances): 234k km on the clock, oil ash: 67.7 g.

Yep, the light output is definitely better, just check my pictures & videos on page 1. The only thing I don't like that much is the color shifting. I would say the color temperature is now somewhere between a halogen bulb and a factory (4300K) HID bulb. Probably still closer to the HID. I am still tempted to buy higher K bulbs... The factory HID bulbs (Philips XenStart) are still working fine, but I have a feeling that the light output has started to fall. Or maybe my eyes got used to the brighter light. The ballasts costed me about 50 USD at that time, the price is a little bit higher now. Just search for '45w d3s ballast' on AliExpress.

There must be some tolerances in the system. For example the factory coding is the same (allgemeine scheinwerfer) for the 35W H8 fog lights and the 55W H7 low beams. By the way I did another 20k km without a single fault, so this is 80k km in total. According to my quick calculation this is about 300-400 working hours so far.

My car is absolutely happy with the 45W ballasts. No coding, no errors, they are working like the originals.

Try restarting the headunit, sometimes they do weird things and need rebooting. Press and hold the power button until it switches off and on again. The same thing happened to me a few times, in 2 cases even the force reboot didn’t help, I had to wait more than 15 minutes for the audio to come back.

Also check for fault codes and clear them.

I had to change the original battery after about 80k km / 1.5 years. I fitted a Maxell CR2032 which lasted about 120k km / 2 years. It's worth using the thicker battery.

Try force rebooting the headunit. Press and hold the power button until it switches off and on again.