Yogi-Bear

Not sure, tbh. I was under the impression it just changes the throttle/gearbox to sport (and the stupid noise maker in the vRS)… but I may be wrong. In any case, surely if you’re tapping into sport it’s so you can mash the throttle, which would override the ACC anyway? Glad the tip helped and you’ve found some way to make it work (better) for you.

Welcome to the Internet, you must be new here 😉. Seriously though, if the people who want to do DIY are allowed their opinion, then so are the people who don't. I don't think anyone was lecturing anyone in this thread - merely stating their opinions.

The table in your previous post is rather misleading then - clearly states x miles or y years, and has DSG oil listed each 40k miles or 4 years.

Recall / Service Campaign, probably. I'd suggest the Haldex is overdue - that should have been done at 3 years. The DSG is 4 years.

Quick maths time! £38 x 24 = £912.00. 2 services @ avg. £250 = £500 2 MOT = £100 2 years' roadside assistance = £200 Other parts = £100, to be generous That's £900, before you factor in the warranty. So I'd suggest it's not /bad/ value for money. Whether or not it's /good/ value for money, or just a ploy to make sure you take your car back to a main dealer for servicing, is up to you.

Yeah, I’ve no idea what that bit is / should be called. Maybe it is part of the ‘Adaptive’ bit. But I too have turned it off because it’s annoying. My particular gripe is that it seems to slow down far too early for roundabouts - really feels like it’s going to stop about 50m short.

Just so you know, ACC is designed for use on motorways and dual carriageways, not slow roads with sharp bends that can cause the car in front to suddenly ‘disappear’ from the view of the radar. You’re discovering all the use-cases that ACC was never designed for and complaining that it can’t handle them. Essentially, it sounds like you’re expecting ACC to be akin to autonomous driving, which it really isn’t - perhaps the full-on self-driving abilities of a Tesla would suit you better?

Errr, that’s the whole point of ACC. If it is still doing that, then you haven’t disabled it! ‘Normal’ cruise control will just maintain a constant speed until told not to (either by the driver or by hitting something in front of it). What driving mode do you use regularly? Have you tried Eco, or at least Individual with the ACC set to Eco? It’s pretty smooth then, IMHO - unlike Sport, where it will go speeding up to the car in the front before braking. How do you expect it to do that? You can see the traffic and make the distinction between the different cars etc.… the radar is essentially looking for the nearest ‘thing’ and controlling the distance to that. You shouldn’t be undertaking… but ignoring that, you can flick the stalk or blip the accelerator when the icon comes up on the dash showing the traffic to your right. A 2019 Edition should have Traffic Jam Assist, so should happily move in a queue, even if the lane to the right isn’t (at low speeds, obviously). A dealer won’t be able to do anything with it - but it’s possible to code something so the driving assistant menu has an option to switch between ACC and normal cruise control. Certainly seen this as a thing with OBDeleven, so assume you can do the same with VCDS.

Really?! There is on the Mk1... Another reason not to 'upgrade' to a Mk2 then. Plenty of them, it would appear. It doesn't know you've seen it - if you're still moving, no matter how slowly, then it's going to take preventative action.

To be fair, it’s designed for motorways and dual carriageways. Minor road often have poor or no markings at the side (or even the middle!) of the road, which is what the system uses to work out the ‘lane’ and where it goes.

Even though you’ll never tow anything with it - that doesn’t mean the next owner won’t want to. If there is no towing weight on the plate, then if you do find someone to fit a bar (which they shouldn’t), if you were involved in any sort of accident your insurance would be invalid - even if it had nothing to do with the tow bar or the bike rack.

I don’t believe you should. Most leaks were down to drainage channels being blocked, rather than anything more nefarious. No problems whatsoever with my 2021 Kodiaq and the sunroof. Personally, if you can afford the time, I’d go collect it. That gives you the chance to take it for a quick test drive, inspect it, and - more importantly - get to know it on the nice long drive home! I drove all the way up to Newcastle (from Gloucester, in the snow!) to get my first Kodiaq. But if you can’t, then I think it is worth clarifying that (thanks to distance selling regs) you won’t have to pay for the delivery back to them if you reject the car due to any issues, or it not being as described (i.e. anything other than you changing your mind). Given the age and mileage, I’m going to assume that it has had the first (if not the second as well) service done. DSG and Haldex (4x4) (if applicable) oil changes won’t be anywhere near due yet. Can’t think of anything else that is specific to the Kodiaq that you should be worried about. Anyway, hope you enjoy it and it provides many miles / years of happy motoring!

Let’s clear something up from the start - you don’t need to use the ‘profiles’ thing on the infotainment at all. If you have electric seat(s) then they come with memory switches on the seat(s) themselves - 3 of them, in fact. These memory slots hold the position of every seat variable, from position to tilt to lumbar support. They also remember the mirror positions as well. Only thing you need to manually alter is the rear view mirror (and the steering wheel if you mess with that too). As for ‘slow’ - no, the electric seats move at the same speed they do when you manually adjust them. Yes, it’s slower than a manual slide forward/back seat, but as it does all the adjustments in one go when recalling from memory, I’d wager it’s faster than adjusting everything on a manual seat. I’d suggest from that list you’re looking for an SEL or above - however, only the Sportline, vRS and L&K have electric seat(s) as standard (driver only on Sportline/vRS, both on L&K). As for the other points… Sunroof - not had any issues with mine, no leaking, no noise, in my opinion it’s awesome with the dark headlining as it makes the cabin a lot lighter and makes it feel a lot roomier. Wheels - only the SE came with 18” wheels, so if you’re going to get everything you want, then it’s going to also have 19” (or 20”) wheels. Just be mindful that the price of tyres jumps massively from 19 > 20. Given what I know my 2021 vRS with not quite 23k miles is worth, I would have thought a 25k miles SEL should be well within your budget with a bit of haggling. If the seats are that important to you, then you might have to compromise a bit on mileage or price. @skattman - I’ve sent you the 2021 brochure in a DM so you can see what was standard on each trim.

A factory fitted tow bar might be more expensive (not twice the price) - but at least it is properly coded, doesn’t have issues with the reversing sensors, is covered under the car’s warranty, etc, etc. To some, the extra cost is worth it for the peace of mind and simplicity.

I thought all the Mk2s came with tow bar prep as standard…? In any case, I still don’t understand why people who want tow bars don’t just order them in the first place - so much easier than trying to get on retrofitted. Yes, I get that some buy from stock, but in that case, wouldn’t you check about getting a tow bar fitted before buying the car if it was a requirement for you?

The unit in the glovebox and the screen together make up the system - I don't believe you could change one without the other. As @Routemaster1461 says, the easiest thing to do is to use Android Auto or CarPlay... swapping out infotainment systems, with all the hooks into the car's other systems, isn't really worth the effort or expense involved (in my honest opinion).

The Bolero doesn't support sat nav - only the Amundsen and Columbus. The SD card slot is just for media files, I'm afraid.

To be fair, it’s not just Skoda - pretty much the entirety of VAG is on a downwards trajectory.

There’s a huge difference between (to use my previous example) an update bricking an iPhone and rendering it or some of its features / functionality unusable, and an update bricking a car and rendering it or some of its features / functionality unusable. Imagine if you could update your iPhone whilst it is in use… any issues with the update might be annoying or break something you’re doing, but it would be highly unlikely to actually cause harm. Now imagine if your car did an update which caused issues whilst you were driving… what could possibly go wrong!? So have Skodas and other cars for most updates. And you still can’t drive your Tesla whilst the software update is installing, which can take several hours for the larger updates - and, as I understand it, you don’t get to choose when it does these updates; so in theory you could park up at the supermarket and get stuck because your car is doing an update which you also can’t cancel once it has started…

Out of curiosity, how much experience do you have with writing code and upgrade routines for integrated systems and/or within the automotive industry in particular?

You know that the OS controls a lot of the car's functionality and features - it's far beyond simple infotainment. Doing an OTA update of that magnitude whilst the vehicle is in use would be... problematic. Also, you're assuming the unit has the spare space to fully download and store what would, essentially, be a second copy of the system files and data. Yes, it could be compressed, but then you need even more space because you need to be able to decompress it. Plus you invariably need temporary space during an installation routine. For an analogous example, an iPhone requires approx. 10GB of space to install a major iOS update that is usually no more than 2GB in size. That's 5x the amount to allow for all the jigging around and everything else it does during an update. Plus you can't use the phone whilst it is doing it...

No, that’s what trained parking is, which is a separate option to park assist.

If you have TA or TJA and the cruise control is on, yes.

They’re all the same thing, at least as far as the end user is concerned. A combination of ACC that works all the way down to stopping and starting (rather than having a minimum operating speed of 20mph or whatever), and Lane Assist - again, working at all speeds instead of having a minimum. I had TJA on my first Kodiaq (original Mk1), but it was always operational when LA and ACC were both turned on… there was no way to turn it on/off manually. I now have TA on my second Kodiaq (Mk1 facelift), but for some reason I have to activate it separately to the Cruise Control and Lane Assist via the steering wheel button every time I engage the ACC. Never understood why because surely you’d want it active all the time, but each to their own.