chocki

There are one or two regularly by me in Wolverhampton near the JLR engine plant, see them a lot in the evenings. I've sat next to them, followed them, had them follow me etc etc, and compared to the YETI the new defender is much bigger. The last one I have seen regularly was the SWB diesel engine variant, which has quite a quiet diesel engine . I opened the window whilst pulled up along side at the lights and could barely hear it. Body roll in corners also appears to be non existent and it pulls away quite smartish. If they get the engine right and reliable, this may well be a good long term car due to the all aluminium chassis and body, but it is large so doubt would have anything you could call economy for fast road use (>70 mph ie Outside UK). But at starting prices of £40K !!! 😯

My 170 4x4 in L&K trim with extras (Tow pack rough road pack, spare wheel, curtain airbags, fold flat front seat, rear seat trays, so fairly heavy all in) Average 39 to 40 mpg on daily 20 mile commute each way, 45 on a longer run, best was 52 mpg, worst around 30, but you can get into single digits at 130 mph, so don't bother. Just recently I started using ARCHOIL AR 6200-EU and this has improved my mpg, the same run to work I get 42 mpg, 48 to 50 on a longer run and the best I've got so far was driving down to Dover from Wolverhampton on a Friday lunchtime which returned 58 mpg!. I have just been abroad sticking to the speed limits so generally faster than the UK and driving at between 90 and 100 a lot and managed to average 40 mpg over a distance in excess of 3000 miles, obviously this was not all motorway, previous same trips without AR6200-EU would result in lower mpg, typically 35 or less, so for me this stuff seems to work.

Do you think it would be advisable to put some Captains Tolleys's sealant in from above before the existing seal cracks?, I had my roof replaced a few months ago due to this exact leak under warranty and don't want it to happen again.

Personally, I would do it when I got back as the car will probably have done some very long runs, the oil will have sloshed about more than normal runs and cleaned lots of deposits off from around the engine and broken down a bit more more due to more than likely higher engine temperatures for longer periods of time and will be ready for changing, but modern long life oils are designed to last much longer as well. This way you have nice fresh oil in a clean engine ready to go into winter and the shorter runs back home which put more of a demand on the engine oil than long runs do.

Also the L&K comes with park assist so can park the Yeti for you, either parallel or bay parking, it will even steer the car out from parallel parked spaces, if you specify the rear view camera, you can see where it is going to go on the display inside the car, this could prevent any damage to the wheels or reversing into something. Also the L&K has more parking sensors than some of the lower models and once you see the Bi-Xenon lights in action you will wonder how you did without them. I also found that the seats in the L&K don't need to be electric as they are good enough as is, some owners complain about the manually adjustable seats in lower spec models, but you will have to have a try in one to decide this yourself, the reason I state this is that some options like fold down front passenger seat only can be had with a non electric seat, I think the seat back tables might be as well, but you will have to check. Now the seat back tables, I find these to be angled a bit down for what I would class as normal drivers seating position so to get them horizontal you need the seat more upright, again, you would ideally need to find someone with this option to see if it would work for you.

Just to add my 2p's worth to the mix. Identical tyres wth BMW or Mercedes on them are usually made of a different compound to better suit the intended car. Some years ago Mercedes got continental to make them their at the time high performance tyre Super contact 3 out of a softer compound which helped the merc stick to the road better unfortunately at the expense of tyre life. I fitted a set of these to my somewhat tuned Vectra I had at the time and boy did it stick to the road.......for 7000 miles then they were shot!. (Sha'nt be doing that again). I then tried some XL's in the same tyre which cost a little more but gripped just as well in corners as standard but lasted up to 16000 miles and made the steering response tighter than non XL tyres. The extra life points to a harder compound but with that I would have expected grip to reduce, after all, the pattern and dimensions are exactly the same, so maybe the stiffer construction helped the tyre stay better profiled to the road surface where it made contact, I certainly noticed less wear on the edges with these and more of an even wear along it's width. Standard load Continental sport contact 3's lasted me typically about 13000 miles at which point the outer edges were bald with still a few mm of tread increasing away from this. The softer sidewall allowed the tyre to in effect roll underneath and I found myself actually starting to scrape up the side of the tyre a bit. Now this is not to say all tyres behave the same way, but I'm just putting forward my own observations about how differences in the lettering and numbering on the same tyre make range and size can have quite a difference on how the tyre performs / behaves. And don't trust the manufacturers, sometimes their decision is purely financial or cosmetic (Some numpty decided the Vectra looked better with 215 50 R17 for the British market and specified Goodyear NCT5's. One of the worst tyres I have had the misfortune to drive on, they were plain lethal and actually delaminated!.) Whilst the rest of Europe had 225 45 17s fitted. Back to the Yeti. Tyres is one of those very subjective topics and most people have their own opinions, personally, if your happy with what you already have and enjoy the ride, then don't change them, it can make a huge difference to the ride, handling etc and to be honest most people don't drive towards the extremes of handling with YETI's (Except for possibly BOSS FOX), so don't need ultra high spec and load tyres and can get away with cheaper but still good tyres. I personally have a preference for Continental tyres as I do push my cars, but the ride is almost always harsh. The Dunlops which came with my Yeti, seem quite hard and also lead to a somewhat skitterish ride, I'm looking to replace these with the Michelin cross climate but still waiting for some real world long term reviews on these before I swap them, then I will have to see what I can get for the Dunlops with plenty of tread on them!. I'm a bit funny when it comes to brakes and tyres and always try to fit the best, after all it's all that's stopping you...If you know what I mean. But meanwhile read what other people have experienced with their tyre choice and make up your own mind based on how you drive and what conditions are like for you most of the time.

You could always try talking to Skoda UK customer services about this discrepancy, whilst they may not be able to put the aforementioned side mouldings onto your car, they may offer a good will gesture to keep you happy. This could be a free service, or an optional accessory or something along those lines. The worst they can say is no, anything else is a bonus!.

Bah humbug, I ordered mine last October with the 12 speaker package, and it sounds great!. Oh well still love it. I would definitely recommend replacing that hi vis vest holder under the drivers seat with a drawer like you get on the passenger seat, you will find you use it every time you get into the Yeti. Wallet, house keys etc. Phone goes into the top dash compartment along with a microfibre cloth to keep the dash clean. I also found the L&K seats to be very comfortable without the need to go for electric seats, this then enables you to fit a 1Kg fire extinguisher from Lidl's underneath the drivers seat, needed for continental driving!. Enjoy the L&K, it's nice.

I saved nearly that amount going face to face at my dealers, but I did take printouts from carwow etc before starting. I also told them initially I had less money than what I eventually spent and told them that this is what I have and this is what I would like until a deal was done, only then did I add the extra options which the dealer generally cant discount but if you ask for immediately gives your game away on how much money you have to spend!.

Well I had a good look using VCDS at my Yeti with the CFJA engine, and there appears to be no option to adjust the EGR settings.

Actually, no, my other car flies through every year since there is no MOT requirement for this yet, technically the European compliance is just until the car leaves the factory. The MOT does a smoke test on diesels which blanking the egr does not affect. http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_740.htm

I can second this, ideal solution to protect the original paintwork just a couple of things to be aware of. I went for the silver option to match the silver bits on my Outdoor model, the protector is fairly glossy a feels like it could scratch, this will show in the long run, but the idea is to protect your original paintwork. Also the protector adheres very well so I don't know how easy it would be to remove in the future, so you may still end up with a scratched bumper top, just not the original paint if you know what I mean.

EGR problems are the bane of modern Diesels in my opinion, but European emission regulations have to be adhered to by the manufacturers so this method is the cheapest and safest method to implement NO reduction. On my previous car I had to replace 4 egr valves and 2 inlet manifolds over the first 65000 miles which led me to blanking the damn thing off, the next 75000 miles have so far been without any issues as well as no more flat spot, better performance and better economy, so go figure what I want to do with my Yeti 2.0 Diesel, just trying to find the best method to do this.

Hi Mike, how can you code the egr down to 0% ? Not with VCDS?

Went out for a drive today over 60 miles one way, taking it easy until the last 5 miles where I got tired of being stuck behind dawdlers, so booted it! - This kick started the regen, so maybe this Italian tune up remark isn't such a non-sensical comment after all, I've noticed the same occur at other times, regen kicks in when engine up to temperature and I've just booted it - There's no need to continue to boot it after it has started.

I've heard all sorts of mumbo jumbo about Diesels over the years from people who don't know what they are talking about, they just read something added their spin on it and regurgitate it as supposed fact. Yes, DPF's can get blocked, Yes Dual mass flywheels can fail, Yes water pumps can fail, Yes the cylinder head can warp, Yes..... Lots of things can go wrong with ANY car but if it was a really big problem it would be all over the news like some of the Toyota recalls, which were a safety issue. True, if all you ever do is pop out to the local shops 1 mile away twice a day, you will have problems with ANY car except possibly electric. My old car has been used very little by my GF since January and now one of the front brakes has seized, this is purely through lack of use, also all the rubber bushes will harden and crack!, rubber needs to be worked to remain flexible. A diesel Yeti will be fine as long as it gets a good blast every so often (Italian tune up?). Us it as an excuse to go visit somewhere nice for a day or go to the next town for a shopping trip, you'll appreciate how nice the Yeti is to drive and the change of scenery and the Yeti will appreciate the exercise.

What is actually classed as a short journey?. Is it where the engine has not reached normal operating temperature. Is it a run of less than 20 minutes. Is it a run of less than 5 miles???? What does everyone suggest? I know when regeneration has started because the exhaust note becomes very boomy (2.0 170 DSG), so I try to keep the revs up a bit (sport mode or manual) and maybe even drive the long way round for an additional 10 minutes to allow regen to finish.

Hmmm tempting, I know those roads very well after living near Garth for a number of years, the fun we had baiting the local PC's who were so ill equipped with diesel maestro's and all those twisty lanes.... ahem, I know nothing of such shenanigans.....

I have to admit, I like the look of the carbon wrap on the skoda in the link, I wonder what it would look like on a F/L outdoor model in white.