IngusSeflers

Yes, you'r right..that depends of location on the map and place where you buying parts :peek:

Give me a few minutes... Will send you full instructions in PM

Easy job, about 3hrs to complete As Phil mentioned you need some locking tools (pins). About OEM parts I wouldn't bother, you can get same or even better quality parts from Continental or INA Good luck!

Hi First of all about what engine we talking about and how big is your 'toolbox'? Have you previous experience with Cambelts?

In a few words... You can't insure car without valid MOT, removed DPF is reason for cancellation of MOT certificate! If you think Insurers never digging for a reason to NOT pay you, you are wrong! Mapped vehicles MUST have 'Modified Car Insurance' because you 'screwed-up' output of engine and it's not in a class range of vehicle what you Insure. For instance, you have Nissan Micra with 60BHP. After you got your Insurance you put a Fat Turbo Charger and Bigger Fuel Injectors + some Mapping... Now car has a 100BHP! Great! But is this car really insured? No!

Oh! Really so fairly can be located and replaced? :peek: :p I bet thermostat is OK... first sign of dead thermostat is uneven and not HOT air from heating system.

There is at least 10 reasons why you ABS light comes on. You can chose easiest way-read faults and see direction in which you must move or simply change all components on ABS/ESP system

What is your BHP and Nm output at the moment?

Great! After, read again Live Data and see what coming out

What is the story about T°sensor, did you change it?

From your picture:

Example. At the moment you have ~15 degrees below real temperature, if you disconnect plug from sensor system will recognize -40°C. So I guess you'll not see any difference.

Stop reading-acting!!! Change that Freaking sensor and see what happens!!!

Heater can be retrofitted wherever you are

Must be button on the Climate control dash... Heater unit itself is located under F/R wing Also from maxidot can be programmed.

You need to change #5,#18 is radiator output T° sensor it makes some other functions.

And don't come back without results!

Idle speed too low/high:

YES! Open finally your ears and close the wallet!!! You need double pin coolant T° sensor.One part of that sensor is what you see on the Dash,another part is for ECM and 15°C is huge mistake in measurement and it CAN and DO affect start of the engine. Buddy, stop wasting your time and money and change really faulty parts not those from some 'toughs' :peek: For me it looks like; Hey Lads, I have problems with Cold Start and wrong T°readings from coolant sensor! Should I change Tandem Pump and Glow Plugs? Are you serious??? :peek:

^^^ :yes:

For me as well VCDS use Milligrams per Stroke to measure MAF. Which is not easy to understand here is some formula how to convert these numbers to Grams per Second . Just google it

On my laptop that sounds like diesel with huge boost leak

Sorry, I missed that fact... :peek: BTW, is that temperature sensor replaced?

Coolant can NOT evaporate! That can do a water if that is a mixture,not Concentrate or "Ready mix". If it does,that is small amount and will not cause discussion about Coolant leakage Cooling system pressure test. And test Coolant on Exhaust Gases to make a sure there is nothing to do with Cylinder Head gasket.