Wakey

If you want to bring it over to me I can take a look and advise www.offyourmarks.com - that's me

Normally the spoilers have bolts to firmly secure it to the body, along with an adhesive gasket that bonds to the body to stop movement and chafing of the paint. In order to wrap it they should really remove it as its very difficult to wrap correctly and assure long term adhesion by doing it without - they would be cutting it on the car. Also it's imperative the spoiler is bonded back on as you will have rust issues later down the line (maybe not in your ownership though) Personally I'd have the spoiler painted as it will look better, and the roof wrapped (easier to do and the film is not stressed around contours and less prone to peel) later down the line. Also its not possible to totally wrap a spoiler like this in one piece - there will be hidden joint lines that will lift over the years

He was asking for opinions on wrapping and it's removal, not for people to make silly comments and derogatory remarks

You may find it's something to do with approach speed - mine operates automatically when selecting first and creeping forward. If you make the R to D change quickly and don't give the sensors time to wake up and detect then maybe that's the issue?

My 2008 golf dsg does whine a little but it always has and 84k miles later and 6 years with an apr remap to 300hp it's still the same. It's had 2 oil changes at 40k and 80k I have read on other forums that other dsg boxes do it too. It's one of the reasons I went manual for the vrs230 - not because of worry of failure just the stress associated with wondering if there was a fault or if a little jerky change every now and then meant something was failing. Re deserting the Skoda brand - well I would advise to have tim to cool down. I have ran BMW's and Porsche for ages and its the same story with some dealer****s - find a good one and the brand of car is rewarded.

Well It's done and working well. In addition to the excellent write up here from post 23 onwards then I can add the following for UK owners I bought the camera (OEM Skoda) from http://www.cars-equipment.com/www/en/shop/rear-view-cameras/oem-5e5827566c-rvc-lowline-camera-kit/ I did find it elsewhere online for czk5000 but the owner of the above business matched the price. All in for delivery to UK mainland was 200Euro. The connections to the Media controller are the same as the above thread - 6 and 12 in the blue block from the quadlock. The 3 supply wires are red (+ve from fuse 32 park assistin glovebox) Brown (-ve from brown on rear wiper motor) Black (+ve from black/purple on rear wiper motor) I routed the cables to the front from the rear hatch via the LHS boot bellows and under the roof lining. To get through bellows I used 1.5mm strimmer cord. To thread along the roof then I used a cable router pole kit. Extra bits I found useful were adhesive fabric cable tape for insulation and anti vibration. A mini fuse tap for glovebox connection Notes I found the roof route far far easier and less intrusive with removing the risk of broken trim clips. The coding was to Code byte 19, bit 4 in 5f to enable camera display, and in byte 10; check rvc present/in option Take your time refitting A pillar trim - its possible to thread down without removal but as there is an airbag in there I wanted to remove and ensure no interference Hope that helps.

where are you based?

No there is lots of room. There's a box section that separates them and I ran the cable inside, plus theres a few other cables following the same path The curtain airbags are just affixed to the very edge near the gutter. There's also airbags in the A pillar with a myriad of cables and roof drain lines Mine has the Pan roof - not sure if the roof architecture is the same without though

Thanks for the replies and help. I made a start today - got the camera fitted and wires routed. I had the same thoughts as you and decided to stick to the OEM wiring code. I picked up the +ve and -ve from the supply to the rear wiper in the boot and took the red down to the front ready for fitting in the fusebox with the Parking aid fuse. I know the mentioned route was to take it down the pillars and under all the floor trim - I used a far easier route down the box section under the roof lining. Removed rear boot seal and fed a wiring router along and then removed the A Pillar trim and hey presto. Just the glovebox connection and coding that I'll do tomorrow.

I wonder if you would be kind enough to help a little? I own a 2016 vrs230. I have bought a genuine Skoda camera (pic1) and intend to install it myself. I have a few questions about the connection that I would appreciate your input on before I go ahead and start the installation? I have read the guide given by trust2k but he fits a non OEM item and mentions something about the differences in power supply I'd like to connect mine as it would have been from factory Pic 1 - overview of purchase http://s29.photobucket.com/user/clio123/media/file_zps8lgtgor1.jpg.html'> Pic 2 - Camera video cable inputs. http://s29.photobucket.com/user/clio123/media/file_zpsa26lya31.jpg.html'> I understand that this pair connect to the blue connector (pins 12 and 6). Is this blue connector found at the back of the Amundsen head unit or at the back of the module located in the glovebox? Pic 3 - The brown wire with round connector http://s29.photobucket.com/user/clio123/media/file_zpslmp1dmsw.jpg.html'> This brown wire is shorter than the red and the black and I assume it connects to somewhere in the tailgate lid - can you please advise where? (I have an electric tailgate) The instructions state the brown should be +ve, is this correct? Where would you advise connection? Pic 4 - The black wire http://s29.photobucket.com/user/clio123/media/file_zpsmf4spdfr.jpg.html'> This black wire is shorter than the red wire but still long enough to reach the length of the vehicle. I understand this is to be connected to -ve. Where would you advise this connection? Pic 5 - The red wire http://s29.photobucket.com/user/clio123/media/file_zpsq99dicyn.jpg.html'> This red wire is the longest of the three and I understand it is to be again connection to +ve. Again where would you suggest this is connected? Finally - the coding. Pic 6 - Headunit details http://s29.photobucket.com/user/clio123/media/file_zps2hibkm6s.jpg.html'> I understand that for my head unit (Amundsen with bluetooth handsfree) that the coding is as follows: Code byte 19 bit 4 in 5f to enable, and in 10 check rvc in 2nd or 3rd byte I have been sent this by the supplier - is this correct for my headunit?

I wonder if you would be kind enough to help a little? I own a 2016 vrs230. I have bought a genuine Skoda camera (pic1) and intend to install it myself. I have a few questions about the connection that I would appreciate your input on before I go ahead and start the installation? I have read the guide given by trust2k but he fits a non OEM item and mentions something about the differences in power supply I'd like to connect mine as it would have been from factory Pic 1 - overview of purchase http://s29.photobucket.com/user/clio123/media/file_zps8lgtgor1.jpg.html'> Pic 2 - Camera video cable inputs. http://s29.photobucket.com/user/clio123/media/file_zpsa26lya31.jpg.html'> I understand that this pair connect to the blue connector (pins 12 and 6). Is this blue connector found at the back of the Amundsen head unit or at the back of the module located in the glovebox? Pic 3 - The brown wire with round connector http://s29.photobucket.com/user/clio123/media/file_zpslmp1dmsw.jpg.html'> This brown wire is shorter than the red and the black and I assume it connects to somewhere in the tailgate lid - can you please advise where? (I have an electric tailgate) The instructions state the brown should be +ve, is this correct? Where would you advise connection? Pic 4 - The black wire http://s29.photobucket.com/user/clio123/media/file_zpsmf4spdfr.jpg.html'> This black wire is shorter than the red wire but still long enough to reach the length of the vehicle. I understand this is to be connected to -ve. Where would you advise this connection? Pic 5 - The red wire http://s29.photobucket.com/user/clio123/media/file_zpsq99dicyn.jpg.html'> This red wire is the longest of the three and I understand it is to be again connection to +ve. Again where would you suggest this is connected? Finally - the coding. Pic 6 - Headunit details http://s29.photobucket.com/user/clio123/media/file_zps2hibkm6s.jpg.html'> I understand that for my head unit (Amundsen with bluetooth handsfree) that the coding is as follows: Code byte 19 bit 4 in 5f to enable, and in 10 check rvc in 2nd or 3rd byte I have been sent this by the supplier - is this correct for my headunit? Many thanks guys

Yeah if you like mate

Ive just bought a nexbase duo - Anyone know if the rear facing camera can be zoomed so it looks further beyond its current setting?

Excellent mate - not too long now!

Did you have to geometry checked/adjusted afterwards? If not how is tyre wear - wondering if its a subtle enough drop to not have to mess with geo? Do you have any pics of it lowered?

I see you are in hampshire....long way to me but if you wanted to drive mine you are more than welcome - Its a manual As for the manual vs dsg well I can share my thoughts as I currently own a golf edition 30 dsg remapped to 300 and a manual octavia 230 and drive both during the week. If you want an easy driving car that you will use every day and contend with traffic queueing and have a blast every now and then, well the dsg is perfect. It's downsides are a slight loss in overall feeling of control. Although you can drop gears by interrupting 'drive' or 'sport' mode by blipping the steering paddles and forcing it to drop down, it's not quite the same feeling. For example if you do so and say blip down into third ready to overtake or whatever and don't accelerate within a few secs then it automatically shifts up again. This can be bettered by sliding the lever across into manual but even then the 'experience' of just pressing a paddle or pushing the lever up or down is a little muted - like not being fully in control as such; although you are. The complete opposite to the above applies to manual - can get tedious when queueing like any other manual, but the clutch is light and progressive and the gear change is smooth. When having a blast, well its just normal manual fare and it's easier to drive fast. During general driving with DSG it does have some small flaws - can sometimes be a little jerky in low gears every so often. Also in situations like approaching a roundabout and you see a gap and decide to take it then it might not be in the gear you anticipate. This results in not accelerating how you expect, you naturally depress the throttle more and then it drops a gear and you surge forward. Not a major problem, just an inevitable side effect of having our brain wanting or expecting something and a software program deciding for you. Overall, if you are a keen driver and are buying a vrs to drive and have fun in and really appreciate its engine and dynamics then for me it has to be a manual 'box, if you are not too bothered about the final 10% of enjoyment and control then the dsg is fantastic and highly recommended. Just my personal view - if you are buying a vRS for its merits as a fast car and fun then I can't see the point in muting the experience with a dsg compromise as in my opinion a true performance model (excluding exotic cars) is still a manual car. If you are happy to accept minor compromises and have an overall easier driving experience the DSG. The thing is, you could test drive the DSG and in the confines of a 15 min test drive then it will appear perfect, the minor niggles only become apparent after experiencing lots of different driving situations. I do love the DSG and despite it's niggles it's great, it really is. But having driven manual cars for 25 years, it does take some accepting of the loss in overall input required to drive.

Most probably poor adhesion due to maybe a contaminated patch

I think the seat looks a riot to drive. VAG are really turning out the good engines at the moment!

Don' forget, the 230 makes a lot more power than the quoted 230 as others have testified; I certainly don't think it's lacking in any way - and I have a few other cars with more power for comparison. The 230 is not an out and out hot hatch though - its a very quick, well specced and spacious car. If buyers are hoping it will thrash everything then it won't - it will certainly keep a lot of the current hatches honest though. I think that this is exactly what VAG want it to be - something of everything for the savvy buyer.

Use the full rev range in 3rd and 4th every now and again. Don't think you need to drive like a baby and keep it off boost - you don't Just observe some mechanical sympathy in lower gears for the first 1000miles then drive it how you like. Also be progressive with braking and allow them to bed in gently Always make sure engine is up to temp before any hooning - that goes for always

Hmm, wonder how it would cope with more power ie >290 being FWD? I owned a new type r recently with trick front struts. That was 300hp and I felt it was struggling to put it down without mega wheel spinning. In the wet; any car could leave it in the lower gears without real restraint. I think in standard for 290 would be perfect.

I like the side profile view. Looks great value too. I wonder if it's 4wd? I personally prefer the Octavia. Never owned a SEAT as it just never appealed as a brand (despite is being VAG like Skoda)

Ive not doctored it - my car came without numbers. It was a factory option

Good choice sir :clap:

Now that would be indulgence. Get some mud flaps instead :sun: