eyegr

The transport mode shuts off the Radio, lights, A/C and the like. Also, when the transport mode is on, it is clearly displayed on the dash panel. So in my opinion, the transport mode was OFF. Most likely it was an issue with the very low fuel quantity -OR- it could be a rodent having chewed something. This happened to my car only two days after I bought it. They really like the smell (and taste) of new cars.

I don't buy this "learnt driving style" nonsense. Apart from the fact that it was used an obvious excuse for the lack of power after "the fix", albeit a cunning one, IF such a thing existed don't you think that it would be a strong selling point for VAG? An ECU so smart that can adapt to the driver's style by itself? Surely it would be at top of the list in the dealer's leaflets.

While most phones do have FM tuners, expensive phones like the Galaxy S, the iPhone and the Pixel don't and I suspect it's because of aggreements with the carriers to promote streaming services which are not free like the good old FM band.

Indeed, the Climatronic is very powerful. The weather can be quite hot where I live, temperatures over 35 degrees under shade are very common during the summer and if you park under the sun I really don't know how hot the cabin gets. In any case, if you select the lowest temperature the cold air is just unbearable in less than 20 minutes.

Connect the phone via BT and use its own FM tuner to listen to the radio instead of using Swing's tuner.

EA189 1.6 TDI without start stop here. When the ambient temperature is less than 10 degrees Celcius it will take a little more to start up, never more than 2 seconds though. When either the day or the engine is hot it starts right away. The glow plug light duration is the same in either case I think. It behaved this way since new, so I think it's normal.

This story reminded me of an old film, The Towering Inferno. Very sad, considering this one was a residential building and many people are now homeless.

As per the service manual, the mirror glass is removed inserting a wide plastic wedge from the top and using it as a lever to push the glass out. Like others pointed out, you can swivel the mirror all the way down beforehand to assist this. After removing the glass, the housing can slide out by pushing and unclipping three clips which are behind it. There are more clips under the housing to remove the frame.

I don't believe in cursing and I don't think that your kidney problems have anything to do with your personal life. And you are not destined to be single if you don't choose it - there is no such thing as destiny. My advice: live your life, be positive, strong and confident, especially towards women and you will find the right one. It's never too late, especially for a man.

Maybe. It depends on how hard you push the engine during your short trips, because this will affect how much soot wil accumulate over this time. In any case, an elevated idle engine speed should warn you when the long ride is necessary. From my own experience, this will be about once a week, if your short trips are about 10 miles each. My advice is, unless you can find a deal that won't rip you off, to keep the car. Maybe in the future you will again commute a long distance, or maybe it will be a good excuse for weekend getaways

a) to remove the oil filter first unscrew the holder of a solenoid valve which is directly above the filter and set it aside, along with a hose that gets in the way. Then you can slacken and remove the oil filter. You screw it back with 25 Nm of torque. b ) then remove the noise insulation from underneath - you need to unscrew 6 screws. Tighen back with 2 Nm. For the sump plug see the word file attached above.

You need to raise the car and remove the insulation from underneath - you can't do it at home, unfortunately.

I am considering buying a 12V suction pump (€15 from Lidl) to change the oil myself, at least for the intermediate service. This way it will cost me almost half the money, always using the same long life oil. Has anyone tried it? The service manual says either draining from the plug or suctioning off the top is a valid option. As every engine has a different oil sump / dip stick configuration, I am worried if some old oil or sludge is left at the bottom of ours.

Question to the OP: Does the cover help the engine warm-up faster? Have you noticed any difference?

Ensuring the oil quality is good is essential to the TDI engines. Although the ECU is supposed to take various parameters into account and prompt the user to change oil when the car needs it, I have opted to change the oil and the oil filter every 5000 miles no matter what. I live in a small town, I do a lot of small trips throughout the day (plus the occasional DPF cleaning trip of course) and the weather is usually hot so the oil gets degraded faster. Given the low cost of the oil service (comparatively) I think it's better to be safe than sorry. If your daily trips are long enough, you don't push the turbo hard often and you use long-life oil, you can safely extend the oil change interval - or trust whatever the ECU tells you.

When it stops, do you still hear the motor spinning? If so, the blade arm may be loose on the motor.

Not an easy retrofit You need a) 20A fuse 41 in fusebox b ) wiring from the control unit to fuse 41, earth, buttons and heating elements c) heated front seats control unit (behind dash) (6R0959772A) d) heated seat regulator buttons -> you must change the whole control panel, part number depends on what buttons you need e) the heating elements (2x 5JA963555B, 2x 5JA963557B) f) contact housing (1J0937510A) It is possible that you also need a different body control module (although I think even the old ones support heated seats).

Ignition unit is prone to problems. I experienced the same, read the following thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/382335-x-contact-malfunction/

Upgrade to firmware version 5238 only if you have issues with your current one. Your maps are old (V10), you can safely upgrade that to the latest version right away.

Good news, everyone! They replaced the bearing under warranty and everything went back to normal - the noise disappeared. I also took a glance at the old bearing, two balls were missing, although they could have been removed by the mechanic.

I'm not sure, I will ask tomorrow. Seems like I will need it I live in the island of Crete.

This week I noticed a rolling noise when driving over 35 mph and decided to lift the car to inspect the wheels. One of the rear wheels had a lot of play in its vertical axis, so much that at first I thought that the nuts where loose. I suspected the wheel bearing so I took it to the local Skoda garage (my warranty expires in two days!). They confirmed the problem with the bearing and (fortunately) told me that it will be covered. They also advised not to drive the car until replacing the bearing tomorrow. Now, I've done about 15k miles since I bought it (new) two years ago. I don't know if this is normal wear but my previous car (a Polo) did over 70k miles before developing such a problem. Any thoughts?

There is a relevant TPI about this issue. To verify, check the Inlet Air Temperature for unrealistic readings (should be near ambient temperature) and whether the Ambient air pressure matches the Charge air pressure. The reason for the errors is either a wiring malfunction of intake air pressure/temperature sensors (G31/G42) or a malfunction of the actual sensors. Check the sensor contacts for oxidation, if oxidation is present replace sensors, otherwise replace wiring.

No cracks on mine, just checked. I don't have kids and rarely carry passengers in the back seats though.

Err... yep... my bad then! Or, maybe it's time the OP ditched the iPod and transferred his music to an Android phone