LightRain

I voted leave and I'm still happy with my vote. I'm not happy with the people handling it though.

I understand your frustration, but at least the car functions, but yeah, better to get this diagnosed and fixed in case it is something more critical. Also, at least you can be quite sure you don't have any supply side problems. I can't tell you what is wrong, nobody can without evidence, any guess is just that a guess. I've said what I would start with but you can't do that with your meter. Can't you get someone to help you so you don't have to juggle holding probes in place or go to an electronics shop and grab a cheap set of narrow probes and crocodile clip leads? Regarding VAG-COM, isn't there a Danish VAG forum where you could ask if there are any local people with the software? There is a British equivalent here and as far as I know it works out very well for people.

I only have citigo diagrams marked May 2013 onwards. I could send you those. Also a friend has autodata, could grab the info from there if you give me your engine code.

A PID is a standardised code used to read certain information from an engine computer. Usually used when talking about generic OBD2 scan tools. There are hundreds of them and depending on the mode of OBD2 you are working in, the readings can vary. But generally a cheap OBD2 tool will read at least mode 1 PIDs, meaning stuff like MAF rate, fuel trims, O2 voltage and so on. In VCDS, measuring blocks are a good example of PIDs. A specific bit of data that reads a specific thing at a specific location.

Back before Baku they restricted certain combustible compounds from the oil formula. From Italy they set a restriction of 900ml/100km consumption. In 2018 this restriction will be 600ml/100km

That's a generic OBD2 tool, these can't do anything manufacturer specific, they can only read fault codes, delete them, and some can show live data of some sensors and such. They are a useful tool but I don't know if Skoda were making OBD2 compatible cars before EOBD came in. VAG-COM is specialist equipment that can interrogate the computer and perform certain operations, tests and adaptations. It is very powerful and essential for anyone wanting to do serious work on VAG vehicles. VCDS is what VAG-COM became. Check out www.ross-tech.com for information and compatibility. I would still check the voltage of the 5 V, harness connector side, supply pins of the throttle body and crank sensor, to ground. If you get a 5 V reading (I suspect you will) then the fault could very well be in the MAP connector, it was corroded after all, maybe the corrosion went deeper then just the contacts.

I'm quite sure oil burning is as big a red herring as the split turbo was. That said McLaren probably just want to head Honda off on their development of the technology. But, that's just a wild stab in the dark.

I am still amazed how much faith Tost has in Kvyat, maybe he thinks he'll be the next Grosjean.... Him, Palmer and indeed Ericsson are just taking up seats that could be used to season some new talent. But yeah, I am probably being a bit harsh.

About bloody time.

EOBD was required in Europe from, I think, 2001 (in the US OBD2 was required in 1996). This car will probably have an OBD1 connector, the location, type and configuration of these vary depending on make, model and year. I don't know what you have, check under the steering, see if you have the EOBD mandated 16-pin socket. If not, it is likely an older type connector located in the engine bay or some other place, these usually require specialist equipment, although some can be read by monitoring for flashes on a test lamp and sending timed signals into the connector with a switch. I don't blame you for not wanting to dig deeper in the harness. I recently spent 4 hours on an old Peugeot, balls deep in its motor harness just to find a tiny wire with a tiny bit of corrosion. Not fun, although being paid in beer helps . Sorry I couldn't try and help you any further. Best of luck getting it sorted.

That supply is shared with the throttle body and the crankshaft position sensor. I'd measure one of their supply pins to isolate the location of the fault to the portion of wire from the splice to the MAP sensor. Just to be sure, key was on and engine was off and your other probe is to ground? Locating that splice could be time consuming. Without the Skoda documentation you'd have to follow the wire until you find the splice. Look for where the sensors that share that supply join the larger wiring harness. This is a supply from the engine computer so it is likely downstream from the computer and up from where the last of those shared sensors joins the large harness. But, you may be able to estimate better when you're looking at the thing yourself. Also, someone with working experience on this car may know exactly where to look, maybe they'll answer.

If that is the voltage reading for B1S1 then that looks interesting. It looks a lot like the equivalence ratio reading of a good sensor. Are you sure you measured volts? Didn't you manage to find short term fuel trim (STFT) and long term fuel trim (LTFT)? It would be better if you could run the tests I mentioned in my first post, here they are again: Test 1: Idle. Note both STFT and LTFT values once they've settled down. Note the voltage of the B1S1 O2 sensor, it should hang around 1.4 - 1.6 volts. Note the voltage of the B1S2 O2 sensor, it should change between 0.2 and 0.8 volts. Run like this until everything seems stable. Test 2: Running at about 2000 RPM first then about 3000 RPM for a short time. Note the same values at 2000 and 3000 as you did for the idle test once things have settled down. Test 3: Rapid full throttle and immediate release (called a snap throttle test). Do this 2 or 3 times, waiting some moments between each one for the measurements to settle. You will need to display a graph of what exactly happens to the B1S1 O2 sensor because there is a certain pattern I am looking for. Anyway, good night.

When I say ignition on I mean engine not running.

Ignition should be on when testing reference voltages, sorry I didn't say. That looks much better than before. They really are quite fat. A good investment for the future is a decent set of probes, the ones that allow you to attach a crocodile clip and piercing probe are really useful. Crocodile clip saves you having to hold onto all the probes all the time and piercing probe is great if you need to test a device while it is connected but can't backprobe it. Anyway, good night.

That's the 5V supply to the MAP sensor. Maybe don't replace the sensor until trying to clean the contacts first? Maybe have a go at sanding or scraping them a little or cleaning with contact cleaner or alcohol. You can check the pin with your multimeter for 5 volts once cleaned and if it shows that you should be fine. You lose nothing trying to clean it up before replacing. No problem using brake cleaner on the throttle body, carb cleaner would maybe be more aggressive if you can get it. Could you send a picture of your multimeter probes? I have never seen any too fat to get into a component's connector

At least it tells you it is manufacturer specific -_- Is there someone near you who can plug in VCDS or some other more specialised equipment? Maybe that gives you a better idea. If you're having rough idles, check for air leaks, probably won't have any, but can't hurt. Only link I could find with any sort of description: http://www.gerritspeek.nl/vag-com_dtc-03428.html I have a thought (dangerous as it is). In a "traditional" relay driven circuit, the control side is what makes the contact (closes the switch) between supply and load side. It is the part which you activate by flipping a switch or pressing a button or whatever, before handing over control to the relay. Maybe in this case it is similar. It appears that your command to indicate left or right is sent to the "onboard supply control module" this then sends it to the relevant lights. The control side goes from your indicator stalk to this module. Maybe a dodgy connector, dirt on the stalk contacts, wiring fault (my old favourite). I could be barking up the wrong tree entirely here, but the naming of that code makes me think like this.

It could, but I'm not saying it is. Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.

OK then. I couldn't tell you what I think it is with any certainty yet. I'm now wanting you to run tests to verify the condition of the pre-cat O2 sensor. Basically, if the O2 is feeding incorrect data to the computer, the computer will adjust fuelling to fit with that data. Or the O2 is so badly malfunctioning the ECU is not letting it control the fuelling and operating using stored mapping. This car has a wideband O2, they're really hard to diagnose with 100% certainty without VAG equipment. But, by following a "belt and braces" approach, enough information can be gathered to make a reasonably certain call. But anyway, tests are easy to do, you don't even need to get out of the car or open the bonnet. So they're the best place to start

No, I first thought that, but you said it was tested. Sorry, I said "air leaks can be counted out", meaning, it is probably not an air leak. Torque is a popular system I think, so I guess it has what is required. It may even have graphing. This just makes it a lot easier to be aware of what is happening. Looking at numbers updating in a list, especially on the snap throttle test, is very difficult. Oil consumption could be excessive and that could lead to a bad idle, but, if the lambda control is working fine then this should be accounted for in fuel trimming. I don't know if your consumption is excessive for this engine.

Air leaks tend to get better at higher speeds due to the lack of vacuum when the throttle butterfly is opened. Huge gaping holes in the air system are a different matter, but you'd usually see or hear them anyway. But, air leaks can be counted out. I guess an exhaust leak can also be counted out, if you had one that far up in the system you would hear it. I don't know the capabilities of your OBD tool (what's its name?), I guess it runs off of a smart phone? If it has live data ability then you can monitor things with it. It should most certainly store freeze frame data of the reported fault codes. Graphing is preferred, but if you don't have that but can still view live data as just numbers then that will be fine for this. It'll just require a little more concentration.

An air leak is the first thought on something like this, but other possible issues could include a pre-sensor exhaust leak, faulty fuel delivery, wiring problems, air flow sensor and O2 sensor. You should note down the freeze frame data. Do you have a scan tool that can graph one or more live data PIDs? If you do, you should do some simple tests while monitoring both fuel trims (STFT & LTFT) and both O2 sensors. Tests should be done when the engine is at operating temperature. Test 1: Running at idle. Note both fuel trim values once they've settled off. Monitor the voltage of the B1S1 O2 sensor, it should hang around 1.4 - 1.6volts. B1S2 O2 sensor should hover between 0.2 and 0.8 volts. Run like this for a while and observe anything that happens. Test 2: Running at increasing RPM. Run at, for example 2000 and 3000 for a while. Measure and note the same values. Test 3: Rapid WOT and release, do this a few times, waiting some moments between each one for the readings to settle. Make a mental or written note of what exactly happens to the B1S1 O2 sensor and STFT. Regards.

Now I feel foolish, I assumed it was an early model (you know what they say about assumptions). Is this the diagram you are looking at? I rarely trust Haynes diagrams, but assuming this is the right one then we can carry on. As you are suffering idle issues, best to start with idle control and then throttle measurement. Using your multimeter, test the relevant pins for the below. Throttle closed switch, although this is probably OK as the issue stops when you apply throttle. With the ignition off. Resistance between pins 3 and 4 when the throttle is closed and when it is open. Closed should be very low ohms and open should be an open circuit. With the ignition on there should be fairly steady supply voltage going to pin 3, it is usually 5 volt. The other is a shared ground. Idle speed motor. Ignition off. Resistance between pins 1 and 2. It should be only a few ohms and certainly less than 500. With the ignition on and engine idling, both pins should show a changing voltage reading. If you had a scope you'd see a controlled on and off signal. 12 V max and 0 min, if your meter has the update speed to see that. After those checks, next are the position sensors. Pins 6 and 4 are shared with both potentiometers. Test continuity between ground and pin 4. With the ignition on you should read 5 volt supply on pin 6. These next tests require you to make a very slow sweep of the throttle from closed to open and back, the speed has to be very slow when using a multimeter because multimeters are slow to update. Ignition off. Resistance between pins 5 and 4 then resistance between 5 and 6. The resistances should change steadily as you increase throttle position, there should be no sudden changes. On slow release of the throttle the resistances should steadily go back to what they were before. With the ignition on, performing the same throttle sweeps, voltage at pin 5 should change smoothly. Ignition off. Resistance between pins 7 and 4 then resistance between 7 and 6. The resistances should change steadily as you increase throttle position, there should be no sudden changes. On slow release of the throttle the resistances should steadily go back to what they were before. With the ignition on, performing the same throttle sweeps, voltage at pin 7 should change smoothly. That's about it. Of course, the problem may not be electrical at all, the throttle body could be dirty, it may not even be the throttle body at fault. These tests are quick and easy to perform (assuming good access) and give you positive assurance of the electrical state of the throttle body.

A car of this age will be cable operated I think. So, if you want to check its range of opening get into a situation where you can see the butterfly and have someone slowly press the pedal and see if it opens and closes smoothly and quickly. This car (if the diagram I have is right) has only a throttle closed switch and idle air controller that are operated electronically. The switch is easy, it should be closed when the throttle is closed and open as soon as any movement happens to the butterfly, This can be checked by unplugging the switch and measuring resistance through the contacts. With the engine running there should be a voltage (probably 5 volt) on one of the switch pins (3 according to this diagram) and continuity from the other to ground (pin 4 I think). The IAC is a little trickier and its operation depends on its type, someone with more knowledge of this model would perhaps be better served in giving this information, but if you wish I can give you some general tips.

That would depend on what the instrument panels are like on this car. Worst case, needs replacing; best case, it isn't the panel. In between, maybe a broken track or solder joint can be fixed.

According to the diagram I'm looking at the pressure sensor is a single wire fixed pressure switch type sensor, grounded to the block. If you've not had any other problems than this you can assume the block ground is good. Try unplugging it and seeing if the light always remains on. You could also try the risky method of connecting the single pin in the connector to ground and seeing if that eliminates the light at all. Anyway, as you have fitted a new sensor (assuming it is the right type and not broken when you got it) it is probably a connector, wiring or instrument panel issue.