LightRain

I would think so, performance first and if there is some acoustic niceness from the design, then that's a good bonus for them.

And while you're at it get everything else that is related to your car, an hour is plenty of time to get all the manuals and data.

The resonance is relating to the pressure waves in the intake caused by the inertia/compression of the intake flow hitting/flowing through intake valves. Essentially behaving like an undamped spring and mass with an induced load. It's the same phenomenon as with musical resonance, but different purpose.

Yeah, the diagram shows this. Makes me wonder why they suggested replacing the hazard switch as that just switches one pin on the power control unit. I'm still not entirely sure if this is just a hazard thing or when indicating too? If it is just a hazard thing, that's a little odd.

I would agree it is more likely wiring than component issues, I'm unsure why they would have suggested components before checking the wiring. So, right flasher on either side is misbehaving with the engine running, idle and under load and driving conditions? You have new hazard and stalk and both are OEM? Do you hear the flasher unit ticking when the right flasher isn't working, what about the dash indicator light, or is it all completely dead on that side? I can't think of what it could be right now, vibration is a concern, also some dirty signal to the power control unit while the engine is on. Anyway, checking voltages and voltage drops at key points is as good a place as any to start. Do you have a multimeter, failing that a test light? Go backwards from the easiest accessed indicator. Test the supply line. With the indicator on and ignition on it should read a fluctuating 12 V (test light flashing strongly), with the engine on it will probably read 0 V (test light off), but there may be a hint of voltage (test light flashing very dimly). Basically you are looking for where (if anywhere) the signal is always present.

Did you test the battery voltage while cranking (without starting that is)? Without loaded readings battery voltage isn't the full picture. Although, probably not your issue, if you're going to test a battery it pays to do it right. AC voltage leak test may also give a clue if there is a charging issue, this is done from alternator battery wire to ground with the meter in AC mode.

Ahh, I understand now. I think I agree with what you say. I don't watch anything but the race, but for those who like more of a show then why not? That said, if it starts to get like the Indy 500 "show" then perhaps they've gone too far

What do you mean? It was a fairly clean start IMO.

Yeah, the first O2 (B1S1, pre-cat). There will be specific measuring blocks to monitor and some basic setting tests, hopefully someone comes along to advise on that. In the meantime you can do certain multimeter and monitoring tests to check the basic functionality of the sensor.

At first glance it looks like AFR sensor on its way out, that is I think this has the wideband type (6 wire). They're not cheap, so it is worth testing/getting it tested before sticking a new one in. If you have a full copy of VCDS you can run the diagnostics and if you have a meter you can check the basics of the circuit. You would need to get the manual for this model and engine or have someone walk you through it. I don't have the specifics for this engine. FYI, in my case measuring blocks 030 until 046 are for monitoring and testing the lambda control. Some require you to be in basic settings to run tests.

There is no relay controlling the cigar lighter as far as I know. Also, where is this relay you are talking about?

In my uneducated opinion that is crap. Why would the steering system be highlighted for an oil change in 700 miles? I was thinking power steering fluid alert, but your car has the electro-mechanical power steering doesn't it? So, no fluid.

There's no thermal fuse as far as I know. If the power is intermittently dropping out it could very well be a bad socket or just a loose connection to the socket. It could also be the part that heats up misbehaving. Have you tried monitoring the power with a meter or plug in phone charger or something like that?

IPTV or reddit's /r/motorsportsstreams/ is the best solution and what I use whenever I can be bothered to catch a live one. /r/MotorsportsReplays/ for most other times. I only pay full price for rally these days. I'd like to, but not at the expected price, no sport is worth nigh on a month's wages.

As has already been mentioned Kuka are very commonly used in automotive production. TheGeekGroup on youtube have a painfully slow tear down of a Kuka robot, it was pretty good background viewing if you can stand the guys doing it. Fanuc seem to be used in this factory as well. Their presses seemed to be by Schuler and their spot welding gear by Düring. That's all I noticed. One thing I got a kick out of was the 3D printed template for the badge locations.

There is plenty about this in the regulations. The main point is whether or not a driver gains an advantage. If a driver goes off track, gains a position doing that he can be said to have gained an advantage by doing so. If he then gives the position back or loses it anyway, it isn't really anything but notable and maybe punished if it becomes a consistent thing. For reference.

For less than half a season at the tail end of his career. I don't think there was any bias in that regard, just sloppy inconsistent stewarding.

Resonance chambers make the most sense. Someone in the design office did their CFD work and didn't like how the oscillating pressure waves in the intake behaved and came up with this solution to the problem.

I suppose it could be a fuse. Did you get round to checking your manual for the relevant ones and if so how were they?

It seems you only have the pre and post radiator sensors. So one of them should at least feed the gauge. If the fans come on when you unplug each of them then I'd assume the computer can tell something is not right with the circuit and puts them on for safety. An unplugged sensor should make the computer think that the temperature is colder than it is, if it didn't sense the unplugging. It certainly helps to see exactly what is happening at the time. This is very useful when hunting for a cause to a problem. I guess he had some sort of scope or graphing multimeter. They're pretty much the only tools (without VCDS) that will allow you to see waveforms and signals with timing in real time. I hope you measured current, this would really let you know if the injector is actually firing properly. However, getting the right signal through is a good sign. Well that's a shame. Did you get your injectors tested/cleaned? Anyway, I hope those guys can help you with your problem. Electrical problems that require more than a meter and test light are pretty hard to sort out and the cost of time and equipment may just not be worth it when you can get a professional to do the diagnosis for you. Keep us posted

How are things going?

DOT 4 is a brake fluid type you need to use, so that'll be your reservoir. Your manual is for some reason telling you where the reservoir is on left hand drive cars. If you are struggling to see the level, take the cap off and shine a fairly low powered torch into it, it may help you see the level better. Anyway, if it is on or near MIN, no harm adding a little more regardless, just don't overfill. It's an easy job, just take it easy and avoid getting brake fluid on paintwork.

I dunno how output tests on VCDS work on your engine, but if they are like with the ones I've done it on then you get as much time as you need to check for the sound or other clue of what you are testing. The signals and the vacuum situation can be checked as this is happening. This engine has the solenoid block that controls the EGR and charge pressure from the same module doesn't it? If so, that's where you're going to be check, at least it is all in one easy to access place

Do you have VCDS if so you can use it to test the EGR for actuation at least. During that test you can also check the signals to and from the EGR and if the control of vacuum is as it should be.

That may be the best option. And, to be fair everything appears to be at least functioning and I doubt there is a safety issue with your problems. If you don't have the requisite skills then electrics are best left to people who do, especially for a potentially complex problem like this one. Maybe getting a guy in to diagnose the problem properly can't hurt. You don't have to put any money into a repair if you don't want to and you'd at least know what the problem is and if it could get worse over time. BTW, when/if you do get someone to look at it (or fix it) please let us know what it was and some details, if it's not a problem for you to do so.