adamal

Here are some pictures with the unit working with my Columbus DAB unit and a memory stick. You can see the MDI unit is selected and the track controls. Cheers Adam

I think it should yes. I never used an ipod but it worked fine with a memory stick or an iphone. You may need an extra lead suitable for the ipod from tne unit itself. The lead i have is like the pic below. Cheers Adam

MDI unit and all fittings as described now reduced to £70 posted.

DRLs sold, advert adjusted.

I'm soon starting to return my pre FL Octavia Mk2 to standard to trade it in and I'll be removing the factory MDI unit that I installed. If anyone has any interest in it, let me know and I'll do it sooner rather than later. The MDI unit is numbered 5N0 035 342 E and will comes with the fly lead (1Z0 971 199) to fit the input plug into the glovebox, along with a trim piece (4F0 035 909) to hold the input socket in place. I will also include the quadlock loom that allows you to simply slot it in behind the headunit, providing all the wiring you need without having to splice etc. There is also a bracket to secure the MDI unit to the area behind the glovebox, and I think I also have the lead that allows you to connect a USB stick with your music on it. There is loads of help on how to fit this on the forum (search "mdi retrofit", e.g. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/169642-mdi-retrofit-howto/I want £80 posted for the lot, which is a lot less than I paid, £5 off if you are a Freedom member. If you are interested, please respond to the thread or PM me, and I'll look into removing the items sooner rather than later. Of course if anything gets damaged as a result of removal, I'll tell you before proceeding with any deal. At some point in the future, but not yet, I'll be removing the BT module. The module itself is already spoken for, but I also have one of the AutoPolar BT boxes (https://www.autopolar.net/producto/polarbt-bluetooth-pb01/- see second item) which allows the newer premium BT modules (e.g. 3C8 035 730 D) to work in the pre FL Octavia maxidot (essential for pairing). If anyone wants to put a marker down for this, please let me know. Thanks Adam

If you havent got maxidot you need 5k0 035 730 d or above or 7p6 035 730 j or above. Some earlier lettered suffixes may work too but not quite certain of that.

2008 were Sputniks. Also 17" (225x45).

I suspect its an old bt module which only allows rsap connectivity via the dash and does not provide for BT audio. You may well need a newer module. Thats why I asked for part number, as it would give more of an insight. I suspect its 5N0 035 730 with one of A/B/C at the end? Should be printed on the module...

What is the part number on the box you think is the module?

Pretty sure it is not a software issue. To be honest accessing the abs plug is fiddly especially with big hands. I would use the warranty especially given there may be water ingress near the unit. Just make sure they fix it and don't simply code out the button!

Same here WD40 and dog lead did the trick. The hook is quite sturdy.

There is a single signal wire from the button to the abs unit from the switch. If the pin has come out or got corroded somehow I guess the abs unit will be expecting a connection (as per coding) and throws a fault when not finding it. I would start looking there. I can't imagine its at the button end but obvioulsy easiest to check that first then move onto abs unit.

On my 08 its just bolts which are accessible when you remove the door card.

And if its not that, and assuming you aren't losing coolant, check the connection from the earth wire going to the the pin inside the bottle and the car body with a multimeter. I had this light coming on with no leak and it turned out to be that. Ran a fresh wire to the earthing point and its been fine ever since.

Auto fold mirrors were never an option on the pre fl. If you go satnav try and get a Columbus unit as the older units are very dated and the Amundsen does not integrate so well in the pre fl. Suspect you will need to be very lucky there though..

+1 for what Langers advises. I read about this when I was worried my dmf was failing in the same engine several years ago (thankfully a change of gearbox oil was all I needed) and found quite a few references to it being unadvisable. I can't imagine much has changed making it less of an issue. It apparently only really works for the 1.9.

Long shot but perhaps something needs to be saved to memory on pairing. Is there a tickbox to remember settings on the phone or similar at point of pairing?

Yes I had two years out of it too, but then it happened too often as to be potentially unsafe. As said, driving it like you stole it occasionally helps (but within the speed limit of course!). Not sure I would bother with the tank cleaner though, always thought it was snake oil...

It definitely sounds like limp mode (in which cruise is disabled so that explains that), but a VCDS scan will confirm as advised. I would also suspect overboost protection caused by coked up turbo vanes (if you have one). If it is that, some including me, had success with the cheap Mr Muscle turbo clean (there is a long thread about it - search Mr Muscle). In the end I had to replace my turbo though as it was only a temporary reprieve. Adam

You can remove the switch by just prising off the speaker that surrounds as I recall. Use a plastic spatula or trim tool to avoid scratching anything.

Might be worth checking the switch too. Can probably get one cheaply from ebay and swap it out. It definitely sounds odd that you are getting voltage with the switch off.

If you have an airbag there, I wouldnt recommend just tucking it behind the trim. Instead cable tie the wire to the existing harness behind the airbag. Also if you have an airbag, the trim won't just pop off, there is a small screw behind the airbag symbol to take out first.

Something like item 192216223813. Just search the number on eBay.

It is a while since i did this but there are screws in the handle and behind the mini speaker as I recall. Then its case of prising off the door clips around the perimeter using a plastic trim tool. You may need to buy some replacement clips but they are cheap on eBay.

On the pre FL, if you take the door card off there are three bolts as I recall and its fairly straightforward. The wiring plug disconnects at the door controller and you just plug the new one in and bolt it on with the existing bolts. I would imagine the FL is similar and there should be a guide on removing the door card on here or Youtube