phil5556

OK. A bit of reading around suggests that this one fits. And has flaps. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=161948076054&alt=web Any thoughts?

My swirl flaps seem to be leaking around the actuator. First question.... Can you just replace the actuator and seal? It's spraying a bit of thick black oil out around the area. Secondly.... If not and I need to replace the manifold can I use one from a BKD engine? Seems that the Seat guys do it but can't find much mention on here. Will I notice any difference no longer having swirl flaps? Cheers

. cheers

My 170PD is better if I drive it carefully, maybe 3 or 4mpg better on a run. On my commute to work I can get 50 miles less per tank if I don't drive carefully. But I get to work quicker

You'll lose at least what is in the matrix and any above that level, so yes. Have a bottle of G13 coolant to top it back up after you've finished playing.

What's in the comfort menu? And is there a list anywhere of what I actually get with Maxidot? I'm getting mine fitted in a couple of weeks

Oh balls. I've heard all about swirl flaps, I didn't realise I had them. I really don't want to spend £500 to sort a small oil leak. How do I check if they're still flapping? And I've just read about fitting a bkd manifold, which seems an option if they aren't needed.

Oops, meant to say 170PD VRS.

As it says. What's the black vacuum thing please and what's it connected to? Looks like something is leaking in the area.

So changed it today. Whipped the alternator off too because it seemed the easiest way to get access. I was going to take the egr off and clean it but couldn't get to one of the bolts, so it's still dirty and the alternator gave good enough access. Initial run seems that it's improved but I won't properly know until the morning after it's properly cooled right down and I take it for a drive.

Thanks, this is good news So even if I don't get a light I should get the written warning.

Somewhere in the settings of the stream HU you can switch that function on/off. Might just need switching if you're lucky.

Yes, apparently so. I'm not overly concerned, the DPF light has never come on but would be handy to know there was a warning there somewhere if needed.

Does anyone with a pre-fl with Maxidot know if the DPF light also shows up a warning in the Maxidot display? I have non VRS clocks to go in my VRS and Eddie says that it'll be missing the DPF light once I swap them over.

We have 3 vag vehicles (one each and a camper van) and all can do variable intervals but I always do them every 10k / every year. (Although the van is overdue because the weather is so shocking!)

Thanks sounds easy enough. I will be checking the hoses for heat, maybe over the weekend. Thought if it was a 10 minute job I'd just change it for the sake of knowing it's done. When I got the car last year one thing I noticed was how quickly it warmed up compared to the XType it replaced. It's a couple of miles to the dual carriageway and it usually sits at 90 just as I get on it, the temp gauge on the X didn't used to move by that time. At the moment it doesn't get up to temp until a few miles down the dual carriageway now. And today in town didn't get up to temp for 30mins town driving. Once up to temp it stays there, regardless of driving conditions. I know it's winter but it's pretty mild at the moment.

nice easy fix then!

Thanks I'll check it out and see if that's where it's hiding. Can it be done without stripping anything?

Car seems to be taking longer than usual to warm up at the moment and I suspect the stat might be stuck open/half open. Can anyone tell me where it is on the 170 PD please? Been searching on here and can't find anything definite. Cheers

Do you mean the buttons on the end of the stalk have stopped working?

I think the stage 1 is fine on standard brakes and suspension, it's not crazy fast and still stops pretty well. Maybe the brakes would suffer if you thrash it everywhere, but I don't. I've just done mine on 95k and the clutch is absolutely fine at the moment. It's in the back of my mind that it might need doing soon ish but I'll worry about it when it happens.

Phone and ask Skoda. They checked and confirmed that mine was done, and it has the sticker.

Try searching for Jumbo Box. There's a how to on here somewhere.

Yeah you're right. It doesn't feel *that* quick but I find when I look down I'm going than I thought Now I've driven it in the dry 1st and 2nd are noticeably better but it runs out of grip quite easily.

Oh yeah so last Monday I went over to see Mark at Brotek. He plugged me in, scanned the car and read the ECU. Sent the file off to Shark HQ, gave me coffee and cake while we waited for the mapped file to come back. Loaded it onto the car. Checked everything worked OK, and I drove home. Tbh the drive home wasn't as exciting as it should have been, traffic and hailstones meant it didn't really get a proper run. But it has been well and truly tested now and it's a definite improvement 1st & 2nd don't really feel much different but get into 3rd upwards and it pulls much better. Like others have said, nice and smooth and it seems to have got rid of my stutter around 1750revs. I have had some issues with the DPF doing a lot of active regens. I had filled up with standard fuel (I usually use super of some kind) and it did the same last year too, so I don't think it's due to the map, just coincidence. Back on BP Ultimate and it's stopped playing up. (Whether the fuel actually makes a difference I don't know). One thing I have noticed, which I keep forgetting to ask about, is that the fuel consumption computer seems much more lively, as in it fluctuates a lot more than it used to. Not sure if shark tweak something?