bertJ

Has anyone experience of selling a private registration? I've removed a reg from my Octavia (long story!) and it's now on retention. I'd be grateful for comments from anyone who has actually sold a registration. Thanks in advance.

This was an assumption I made when comparing modern cars equipped with A/C with cars I owned in the 1990's. I specifically mentioned a 1994 Isuzu Trooper that had a very noticeable power drop when the A/C was turned on. You could hear a clutch engaging (compressor?) and the rev counter on tick over would drop about 200 rpm. Also there was a very marked and obvious increase in fuel consumption. The car had a 3.1 litre turbo diesel that produced only 112 bhp; with non A/C fuel consumption was about 32 mpg dropping to about 24 mpg with the A/C on. Such figures would be unacceptable today. I can't imagine a similar A/C demand being inflicted on modern engines especially those producing less than 100 bhp so I would be very surprised if development of A/C systems hasn't kept pace with engine development. However I'm more than willing to be corrected by A/C experts on the forum.

This sort of posting always used to amuse me when the argument was something like 'should I turn the aircon off to save 2mpg'. The standard reply from most people was 'why didn't you buy a car without aircon if you want to save a few pennies?' However, very few cars are available today without aircon. There used to be some merit in the idea that aircon sapped engine power and decreased mpg - I remember an Isuzu Trooper I owned that had a very noticeable drop in power when the aircon was switched on. Modern aircon, especially climate control, has become very energy efficient and should be left on all the time to automatically adjust temperature and humidity as well as preventing nasty smells . Also, of course, some people still have the idea that aircon is just for cooling the inside of the car in summer. As many people have said, 'just turn the aircon on, forget it, and accept the increased comfort and safety it brings'. I think it's time that the idea of turning off aircon to save fuel should be relegated to ancient motoring history. For instance, whatever happened to the idea that, when slowing to a stop, you should go down through the gears to save the brakes? Also, what about not turning the headlights on to save the battery etc. etc?

Sorry, wrong posting.

Just for information there are no immediate ignition controlled fuses in the engine compartment fuse box. There are, however, fuses that remain live for about a minute after switching the ignition off plus fuses that are always live. The only fuses that switch off immediately with the ignition are in the fuse box behind the glove box. There must be routes through the bulkhead for cables but I think that they are probably well hidden behind sound proofing and trim. Like CBFScout I would be grateful if someone could find an easily accessible route through the bulkhead

Last November I was quoted £149 for the first service at 11k on my 150 tdi SEL. When I collected the car the price had reduced to £143.71. The reason was that very little screenwash fluid was required. Mitchells of Ellesmere Port in Cheshire, is an excellent dealer and seems to be considerably different from many of the dealers mentioned in this topic.

It might seem counter intuitive but if you jack the wheel up, loosen the bolts a few times and bash the bottom of the tyre (not the wheel!) inwards, use a piece of wood against the tyre and a heavy hammer - make sure the jack is secure. It's probably obvious but, whatever you do, don't try and remove the wheel by lying under the car and bashing the tyre outwards; also, don't ever remove the bolts until the wheel is loose. An AA man once told me that, if everything else fails, loosen all the bolts and drive the car up and down a kerb so that the shock dislodges the wheel but I've never tried it. In extreme cases it might be necessary to heat the wheel centre but imagine the damage that will do especially to an alloy wheel, hub, brake parts etc. Far better to grease the hubs when the car is new!

As soon as you can remove the back wheels and lightly grease the sides of the centre spigot and the centre hole on the wheel. Also place a very light smear of grease on the wheel face where it contacts the hub. If you don't do this a wheel will eventually rust on to the brake hub and it will be extremely difficult to get off requiring brute force (been there, done that!) This doesn't seem to be a problem with the front wheels. When removing a wheel slacken the wheel bolts a few turns and check the wheel is loose on the spigot before removing the bolts completely. BTW don't get grease on any part of the wheel bolts as they rely on a certain amount of friction to grip the wheel. You might also consider getting one of these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/ALLOY-WHEEL-FITTING-ALIGNMENT-VOLKSWAGEN/dp/B00R7KS2HO - It makes getting a heavy wheel back on to the hub much easier.

Unfortunately, it does seem that the heating on one nozzle is faulty or perhaps the wiring? Is the car still under warranty?

The fan jets can block very easily particularly if you haven't been using good quality washer fluid. They're impossible to clear in the old way by using a pin and you may have to replace the jet.

Don't forget that the VW group have to differentiate their car makes in order to charge differing prices for what are basically similar cars.. Styling is, of course, one way of making the cars appear different but small differences in equipment are used to emphasise the difference in price. For instance VW Passats, Golfs and Skoda Octavias use the same floor pan, engines, suspension, brakes etc. but introduce small, but significant, differences. For instance a Passat has a hydraulic strut to hold the bonnet open, the bonnet release is on the drivers side (UK), the vanity mirrors are illuminated, there's an electronic hand brake, the stop start system is far more sensible than the Octavia's, etc. I recently had these differences pointed out to me by a VW dealer who was trying to convince me to buy a Passat instead of an Octavia.

I'm sure you know this but the tyre pressures are displayed inside the fuel filler flap. Just check the tyre size shown on the tyre and look for the size/pressure on the fuel filler list. Your tyres are probably 205/55R V16 so the pressure will be 2.2 Bars/32 psi on all wheels but don't forget that tyre pressures are different if you're carrying a full load in the car. As FluffyEyeball says when you've checked/corrected the pressures 'tell' the TPMS that they are now correct. BTW, it's probably a good idea to let a Skoda dealer check the car out.

This is what you need The bolts at the back of the bonnet at the top of the hinge are definitely not Torx but are 12 spine 10mm type like this - http://www.ebay.co.u...g-/110640243135 An excellent Wiki guide to screw drive types is at https://en.wikipedia...of_screw_drives

Off my wife's Fiesta (no comments, please - long story!). Virtually unused (about 100 miles) Dunlop Sport Blu Response 195/50 R16 84V tyre. 8mm tread. £30, but collection only from Wirral, Merseyside

I've had one of these for years. Never had the slightest leakage. The only thing to be careful of is that you dry the pack before opening it and removing your key etc. in case sea water gets on to the key as you take it out. https://www.totalaccessonline.co.uk/Products/Accessories-and-Bags/Waterproof-Cases/Aquapac-Waterproof-Keymaster-Card-Asthma-Pump-Case?gclid=Cj0KEQjwjem-BRC_isGJlJ-0h-MBEiQAbCimWBvRTzDoW1Ti1n152L0DsUF3oNVcUvjW5PVuLG4eAuAaAg1o8P8HAQ

OK - thanks for that.

I'm sure this doesn't work on the Mk3. There are two small slots on both the top and bottom of the unit into which you insert some sort of flat bladed key.

Where can I get the required tools (keys?) to remove the Amundsen head unit on my Mk3 Octavia? Someone suggested a set from ebay but I understand they are of poor quality and could scratch the unit. Also I can't find any instructions on Briskoda on how to use the tools; I'd be very grateful for comments - thanks.

Trivial I know, but something of a coincidence - my SEL was new exactly one year ago today and the mileage is exactly 9999 http://s346.photobucket.com/user/bpj1/embed/slideshow/

Photobucket - "http://s346.photobucket.com/user/bpj1/media/airvent02_zpsimjz3dzh.jpg.html"

Yes, it used to really annoy me. Eventually I removed the two vents, masked the non chrome bits and sprayed the chrome parts with matt black paint. You probably could spray them in situ using a lot of careful masking because it was extremely difficult to remove the vents. TBH I can't remember how the vents came off but instructions on one of the online manuals were completely wrong. BTW, the centre vent didn't seem to cause reflections.

Exactly - I wanted to change the wheels and tint rear windows. Insurance company refused to insure me if I did this. If I'd done the 'modifications' without telling them then the insurance would be invalidated. Goodness knows how they would react to major engine modifications! I'm just waiting until renewal time in December to change companies.

Of course! - thanks.

How?

If the mirrors are folded I know that the car is locked - quite useful if you're a bit absent minded!